Diary of a cam timing rookie, does this sound right?

[H.G.P.]

Did some "practice" with cam timing today. This is what I experienced:

1. With only #1 intake rocker installed...

2. Clamped the left chain as mentioned in Wayne's book. From a cam new-bie, seemed like the chain in this process could be stretched or damaged if not done right.

3. Set the valve clearance (tapppet to valve stem) at 0.10 mm.
Comment: The feeler blade for this is extemely thin from any past experiences I've had with feeler blades.

3. Set both dots up and pulley at TDC. Went crazy in eyeing dots as being "straight-up."

4. Set up Z-block, and learned how to preload the meter, setting the needle on the spriing collar.

5. Placed dowel pin in best hole visible, and then tightened cam nut (not easy for me).

6. With wrench, turned pulley 360. Pulley went smoothly around.

7. The meter began to move first really after approximately 245 degrees (or so). (For awhile I thought there was a delay and something was wrong with the meter)

8. Found that the large needle dial on this meter moves counter clockwise around the face. while the counter (small) needle moves clockwise

9. The meter stopped at 2.95 mm

10. With the dot facing down, I held the cam steady with the tool so the dot stayed down, and loosened the cam nut.

11. The dowel pin was held pretty tight in there, not to easy too remove.

12. Found out by basically "feel" that the cam 'tweeking" that I could get the meter to 3.15 mm (TDC overlap 1969 E).

13. Placed dowel pin in basically the only hole fit, keeping an eye on the meter too.

14. Found by feel, that I could tighten the nut and hold the cam (probably mostly the pin doing the holding here), that I could keep the meter at 3.15. This process I used two hands to ensure holding the nut and cam tool.

15. After tightening, and getting first newbie excited, rotated 720 and the meter reading right at 3.15mm, and both dots facing right down.

16. After done, realized in the excitement, I forgot to check backlash

, so I'll have to do that tomorrow, taking off that nut again.

17. Seemed liked this process could also be called.."the right dowel hole."

18. Watched the Super Bowl. (Starting to "jump the shark" maybe?, or is that just me?)

[H.G.P.]

Cam Day 2:

Well I think I did it "OK".

First thing still really bothers me, is (was) putting the chain at tension (no slop), No idea of how tight the padded vise grip should have been.

I went through the steps in Wayne's and Haynes book best I could.

Being the first time ever on making a valve adjustment of any kind, the 0.10 mm feeler seemed so brittle going in there. But I think I did the "drag and movement" thing under the tappet properly.

Last, after the first 360, the numbers with the cam adjustment (dot down), after slight cam turn, I basically had only one hole the dowel pin could go in to give an acceptable backlash range.

....... ended up with 3.02 with a backlash "spring feeling resistance"of 2.97 clockwise, and much more backlash counterclockwise to 3.25.

But again, the other possible hole, would have taken the readings out of range.

Last did the 720 thing and ended up at 3.03, with the left dot no longer straight up anymore.

Hope this is the way it's suppose to go.

[addictionMS]

sleep on it, check it again, sleep on it, check it again, and think about what you are doing, the two cams should meet their dialed in numbers one revolution apart, so check number one, then move gauge to number 4 and rotate the crank 360 degrees and see if number 4 is right. Sleep on it, and check it again, if you are still happy, your done.

Read the book a few more times as well.

Jim

[H.G.P.]

Thank you, no. 4 and right cam is tomorrow.

My only concern about today was that left chain under so much tension, I hope it didn't stretch.

(Also I'm not sure if I understand what to do to prevent a valve running into a piston in these processes, as the books warn of this)

[RoninLB]

the exact chain links and gear teeth don't match at every 720deg.

tolerances, wear, and who knows what else? go figure.

if you mark the orig setting teeth and link you may get a clearer idea on your work?

[H.G.P.]

I have new chains L and R. I really hated doing the "vise thing" on the new left chain for this.

[RoninLB]

I push the idler tight. not very very tight.
It's an imperfect design to begin with.

I like my E at max timing for more low end vacuum, if possible. Then both cams as close to even as possible, even if I have to readjust the first one again.. meanwhile new chains and gears will have some slack to wear when advanced.

I think the gears and link will match up again to measure an opposite cam first. in other words it's easier to have both 1&4 rockers dialed in to confirm. I'm dealing with memories over here..

[H.G.P.]

OK. It's done! I re-did the entire process beginning to end, the left and then the right side done this evening. Both cams timed even at 3.13. The right side was easy as I had better leverage with the torque wrench. Also, Thanks Ronin LB for relating your experience in chain tension....that helped.

After taking about 1 full hour figuring out the clearance between the swivel foot and valve stem with these feelers, I think I got it right.

It seems on this car anyway, that the pin first goes in vertical, matching the woodruff location. 360, then adjust pin to new correct hole.

Both dots now move in sychronization, I'll double test tomorrow.

Thanks