Valve adjust this Saturday

[450knotOffice]

Guys,

I am planning to adjust my valves on Saturday. I've searched this forum for insight, read and saved the technical article, and read the 101 projects book. I've adjusted valves on other cars in the past, but not on engines with space this tight.

So, a few questions:

1) I've got a Carrera with the big air blower on the left side. It looks like I should be able to work around this thing but would you guys advise that I remove it anyway so I can get even more room to work in there?

2) How about the air filter on the right? Should I pull the whole box off the AFM? Or do I just need to remove the cover with the snorkel on it?

3) The tech article advises against pulling the plugs due to the possibility of some carbon breaking off the plugs and lodging in the valve seat, thereby causing an improper valve adjustment. What do you think? Should I pull the plugs to make turning the engine easier?

4) As for the rear cylinders, would you suggest using a mirror so I can see in there? Or should I be able to work by feel?

5) The valve cover gaskets? Are they installed dry - i.e. no sealant?

Any other tips or suggestions?

Thanks guys.

[afterburn 549]

Well you do not say what yr......but they are all about the same with ea yr more complicated with more crap in and around the eng.Mostly take your time to i.d. whats in you way(fan blower?) or what ever and plod forward knowing next time you are a graduate of this course. Mostly make sure both valves are closed,double ck your work and lock nuts.Make sure you feeler guage drags real good at the requried setting,this can be tricky cause at a wrong angle it will feel right but be loose.
Also up for grabs is retorq the studs (head)check the rocker shafts placement and if tight....trans oil level?..and some others will chime in I am sure

[kqw]

Make sure you have the right feeler gauge i.e., the island tool or the standard tool with several blades.

Pull the compressor off along with the air box cover only. Not the AFM.

Pull the "S" tube from the blower

I wouldn't pull the spark plugs but you may need to tighten the fan belt to allow you to turn the engine.

Draing the oil from the engine (not the tank) and remove the valve covers the night before to allow for a completely COLD engine

With it being your first time, I would start with the exhaust (lower) valves on the passenger side of the car to get a FEEL on the proper drag of the gauge.

Gaskets go on dry.

Check the studs (cylinder head) while the covers are off.

You'll need a stubby flat head screw driver, torque wrench and a deep off set wrench.

Loosen the elephant foot, insert the gauge then tighten down to spec. Then Re-check.

Take your time. Once you are in there it's pretty straight forward.

Draining the engine will require about 3 quarts of oil to replenish the capacity.

Fill cooler with Heineken, lay out cold cuts, bread, cheese, condiments, TV and invite fellow pelicanites over for moral support and to verify your work.

Torque is 6 ft/lbs for the valve covers. Torque in a spiral patern from the center. Torque to 4 ft/lbs first and then go back and torque to 6 ft/lbs.

[ausdilecce]

You say Carrera so I am assuming 84-89...

you do NOT need to remove the air filter and air filter cover but removing the air blower ducting will make things easier. You will find the whole operation not too bad, all things considered..

I did NOT pull the plugs for exactly the point mentioned.. It makes turning the motor over a bit harder but not that hard really..

You will probably need to use a mirror on the back ones for your first time but after that, by feel.

I have turbo valve covers and 'lifetime' gaskets so NO sealant.. If you have the same ( you prolly do) , then just be sure to torque down the valve cover nuts to factory specs of 8 Nm ( 5.7 ft/lbs ) when done. I have r&rd valve covers several times and still no leaks...

I would NOT touch the head studs as torque procedure for a carrera is
1st step (initial torque).. 15 Nm ( 10.7 ft/lbs )
2nd step (final torque).. turn bolt a further 90 degrees +- 2 degrees

so pretty hard to retorque unless you loosen them first.. ( I guess you could just check that the toque is at least 15 ft/lbs )

Good luck

[450knotOffice]

Wow!

As always, a quick response from my fellow Pelicanites. Thanks guys. Very helpful. Tomorrow I'll be busy prepping the engine for the job and then Saturday I'll be doing the actual valve adjustment.

What size will that closed end offset wrench be? I can't find that info anywhere. I know I can pull the valve cover and stick sockets in there until I find the right one but asking beforehand will save me a lot of time.

Thanks again guys.

[dickster]

1 yes, remove.
2 yes, i pull the whole lot.
3 what others said
4 i bought one for the purpose, but dont find that i need it - i go by feel
5 get the silicon ones

just take your time, and double check - good luck

[kqw]

Deep offset wrench should be a 13mm on one end and 14mm on the other.

[yelcab1]

One advise from me:

Don't try to look for the 0.1 gap, you'll just bend your gauge. Just loosen the screw and open up the gap big enough for your gauge to slide in, then adjust it down. Especially helpful for the first timer.

[450knotOffice]

Thanks for all the help guys.

I knew I could count on you for those little tidbits of info that usually aren't mentioned elsewhere.

I've got my the valve cover gasket kit and the special Porsche feeler gage (bent to 90 degrees) and spare blades and I'm ready for tomorrow.

[CarreraS2]

1. No, don't remove. Just remove the two foot plastic tube that comes out of the blower and runs down by the sheetmetal. Held on by a couple of screws.

2. You don't need to remove any of the air filter.

3. You don't need to pull the plugs. The engine will be harder to turn over with them, but not a big deal. That'll be the least of your worries!

4. Try it with and without a mirror and see what works for you. Mirror and flashlight are nice to have handy in case you find it helps.

5. Dry.

My tips would be:

(1) make SURE you have the cylinder at proper TDC before adjusting the valves. Check the clearance before you loosen the valve - if it is way off, something is probably wrong - you probably don't have the cylinder in proper TDC.

(2) Get feeler gauges that are one size up and one size down from the spec. If you can't get the spec one in, try the smaller size and see if it goes. Once you have adjusted a valve to where you think it is right, try getting the larger gauge in. You may be surprised to find that even though you thought you had adjusted the valve correctly, the larger gauge will slip right in, meaning you have it too loose. This is a great way to verify your work: Once a valve is done, the correct gauge should have a bit of resistence, the smaller one should go in very easily, and the larger one should not fit in easily (don't try to force it, though!).

[qcwang]

HI Scott,

Great thread you started. On Monday, would you mind posting an update on how things went? Please give any new adivce on what you felt was helpful. If possible, could you post a pic of all the tools you ended up using?
I hope to do this myself someday. All the info I can get helps!!
Thank you!!

[Wil Ferch]

kqw says to drain oil from the engine but not from the tank....

Drain from BOTH engine and the tank...as draining from the engine alone will still have the oil migrate from the tank to the engine ( later) anyway.....

Wil

[450knotOffice]

Jeez!!

Glad I've got a leak free garage. It's freakin' pouring out there and it hasn't let up since last night.

Time to get dirty...

[JRISER]

You're getting all of our rain! It's a beautiful day here.

[sammyg2]

Heck, I'd come over there and do it for you, except I'm stuck doing this stupid thing I call a job. I think back of the olden days when I was your age, we had something called a 40 hour work week.

Oh well, good luck. I haven't done a carrera but I've done an SC a few times, shouldn't be that different.
Wrap aluminum foil on your heat exchangers to keep the oil off of them, drain all the oil out of the car and even then it will still drip a little.
The feeler guage should be a tight slip when adjusted right, lots O' people set em too loose the first time. Not tight enough to bind up but not loose enough for it to slide easily.

You don't need to pull the plugs but you may have to hold a little tension on the right side of the belt with your finger as you turn the fan to keep it from slipping.
Take your time and it'll be fine.

[sammyg2]

Did anyone else see the humor in my post? It just hit me.
I'm complaining that I have to work on Saturday, yet I'm posting on the pelican site instead of working. Isn't irony ironic?

[JRISER]

Yes, we noticed. We were waiting for you to fess up!

[Driver Ed]

One thing I've found useful is to make a checklist. I have it on my computer and I just print it out and put it on a clipboard that I hang on the garage wall. On my car, for example, I find it's much easier to remove the heater hoses first. Also, I remember them by now, but when I made the list (during my first valve adjust on this car) I also noted each of the socket sizes (13mm for valve cover nuts, 10mm for air cleaner bolt, etc.) by each related step. I also actually check off each item as I go through -- the last step being "refill engine with oil." Sounds dumb, maybe, but check through the "admit your stupidities" thread and you'll see this rather obvious step can be overlooked.

The other things I have on there are the times it actually takes me to do the whole procedure, so if it's been a while, I can give my wife a more accurate estimate of when I'll be ready to go out for lunch!

[qcwang]

HI Scott!
How did the valve adjustment go?

Also to Driver Ed, I have a PM sent to you.