New Owner of 73 2.7 RS needs advise

[Cape Town]

I have a replica 1973 2.7 RS Touring - 1969 911T body and a 1974 2.7 911 SC motor with mechanical fuel injection. The car is totally original and in very good condition, but I want to imrove the brakes, handling and performace!

I am looking for advise on modifications that can be done that do not take away from the originality of the car. The car is in every day road use and I do not want to make the ride too hard or engine too noisy, but to try increase it from the standard 210 bhp and improve stopping power at the same time!.

Thanks

[glenncal1]

If it doesn't have them already you can move up to the "S" alloy brakes in front.

[nostatic]

originality of the car? There isn't much left...why worry? What exactly is a 1974 2.7 SC motor with MFI? The SC motor was a 3.0 from '78-'83. It could be a 2.7 engine with MFI, or a 2.7 w/CIS. Do you have any pics?

As for hp, increasing that will take $$$. Suspension and brakes are an easier target.

[Bobboloo]

More info, what's the current suspension setup? does it have anti-roll bars. What are the condition of the bushings.

You can greatly improve the suspension without making the ride harsher.

i'm confused as to which motor you have. You say 2.7 SC and state 210HP. Do you mean 2.7RS with MFI?

[silverc4s]

Cape Town,
Judging from your screen name, you may be in South Africa, am I correct? If so, then surely you are aware that most auto companies had some rather unique models down there, running models for years longer than ROW, combining parts of various versions to suit the market, etc.
I would be interested to hear what you know of the actual history of your car, and early 911 products in S. A. , if indeed that's where you are..
Then, provided you come through with some pictures, we MAY be able to help you with that car of yours...;-)

[ttweed]

Originally posted by Cape Town
The car is in every day road use and I do not want to make the ride too hard or engine too noisy, but to try increase it from the standard 210 bhp and improve stopping power at the same time!

If you have the Type 911/83 MFI engine that was used in the '73RS and the '74-75 ROW Carreras, there is not much you can do to increase power without a total rebuild, using higher compression pistons and more displacement. Very expensive proposition. Be happy with what you have.

If your suspension is stock, I would suggest uprated torsion bars and anti-roll bars with revalved dampers to improve handling, along with replacing any worn bushings and lowering, cornerbalancing and alignment. A "hard ride" is a subjective judgement, and you should perhaps experience the ride in other modified 911s first to feel what they are like before making a decision on this line of action.

TT

[kach22i]

Originally posted by Cape Town
I have a replica 1973......... 1969 911T body and a 1974 2.7 911 SC motor .........The car is totally original ...........that do not take away from the originality of the car.

By "originality do you mean it's one of a kindness?

It's either an original RS or some kind of varying degree of knock-off.

You want to make it a good "knock-off " right?

[LakeCleElum]

Not to be a smart aleck, but didn't you "get past" orginial when the '74 motor went into the '69 body????

[Ho Hum 74]

Cape Town,

Obviously there's a lot you can do to this car. But you need to give us some parameters to work with (cost, what's on it already, has it been dynoed, what do you use it for etc.)

Engine: If you have a 2.7 with MFI that's a great start (I have the same motor). As mentioned, you can increase the HP, Torque and driveability by increasing compression of the pistons from 8.5:1 to 9.8:1 (on a single plug) and higher with dual pulg (lots of Rands to be spent this way). Some folks also modify the S cams. Check out Elgin Cams for their modified S cams. If you have 210 hp, be thankful, that's plenty to have a quick car (when it's light). Once you get the suspension sorted it will outperform a lot of cars on the track.

Suspension: A lot depends on what you currently have. For this car to be 'tight' you need about 22-23mm torsion bars in the front and 29mm in the rear. You should also have anit-roll bars front and rear. Stock is OK until you need to fine tune on the track then you can get adjustable ($500 each!). Have the shocks checked to make sure they are not leaking or just plain 'pap'. You can have Bilsteins re-built and valved to your torsion bar rate ($80 per).

Brakes: When you say "brake better", what is the problem? If you just moved to this car from a modern car you will notice that it takes much more pedal pressure to get the car to stop. That's normal - there are no power brakes! Just push harder. Do you have S (aluminium) or A (iron) brakes? Forget about S brakes, they're useless on the track as they deform under hard braking and have a higher coeficient of thermal transfer (not good for brake fluid). Stick to the A calipers. Measure the disc thickness against the sock thickness to make sure the rotors haven't been turned (not good for track use). Replacement rotors, fresh pads will be a good idea. Also, have you pulled a caliper off and checked the dust boots? Are they torn? You may need to re-build the brake caliper (cheap and easy). There's really nothing you can do to upgrade the brakes cheaply. You can go to a Carrera 3.2 rotor and caliper (wide A) to get more heat sink capability but they're not going to help you stop quicker. The next is Boxster mono-blocs. Pricey. Check out posts by Bill Verburg for all the brake options. Trust me it gets expensive quickly.

Enjoy this car, it will be a blast to drive once you work it all out. Take it around Chapman's Peak for me (I used to live there) and send some pictures.

Cheers,
Tristan

[echrisconnor]

This post has too many mis-matches in it to be real... It's strkes me as this sort of question: " I've got a factory 1974 930 E with a 2.2 liter eingine, 11:1 compression, webbers and a the stock intercooler. How can I make it pull better in 5th gear?"

What's the story here. What engine is this, and what car is it in?

[kach22i]

Originally posted by echrisconnor
This post has too many mis-matches in it to be real...

Well Cape Town has only one post..................perhaps this is a sign.

[fryardds]

Originally posted by Cape Town
I have a replica 1973 2.7 RS Touring - 1969 911T body and a 1974 2.7 911 SC motor with mechanical fuel injection.

Just for claification the Factory internal designation for the '73 Carrera RS was "911 SC". This was to make it clear that it wasn't totally a new model, but rather a variation of the 911 S, according to the Carrera RS book. So Cape Town is correct in calling this motor 2.7 SC. The top timing sticker that goes on the fan shroud of a 911/83 motor.





Cape Town,

To make your car faster take weight off the car. Much cheaper than displacement increase.

[Cape Town]

Thanks for all the advise and apologies for the lack of info!
Although this is not my 1st Porsche, I have never had time to get too involved in the technical specs of my 911's and will have to do some research as to all the details of my car! I previously owned a 1973 911E, 2.4 with MFI.

Attached find pictures of my engine model plate, chassis number and the plate inside my passenger door. I have not photographed my car yet (still doing work), but included is an interior and exterior picture sent to me by the place I purchased the car. And yes the engine is a 1974 911 SC 2.7, not from a 911 SC!

The car was built up by John Abbot (Vintage Porsche Dealer) in Johannesburg 10 years ago to 911 RS Touring Spec!

thanks,

colin

[Bobboloo]

Cool.

You've got a 70' 911T Coupe with a 2.7RS MFI motor.

The original color was Signal Orange.

9110100132 = 70' 911T seq. no. 132

1414-L = Signal Orange


Can you locate the number that's stamped on the engine case to the right of the fan support. It should read 911/83.

If not then the number stamped on the side of the fan support will do. It's the serial number and will verify the motor type as well.

[Jack Olsen]

And it looks pretty sweet.

[Cape Town]

Thanks Bobby, will have a look!

[Cape Town]

Thatss a serious RSR Jack!

[Cape Town]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ho Hum 74
Cape Town,

Thanks for the advise Tristan... To answer your questions.

I live in Cape Town central and don't do much mileage. I use the car daily and drive the amazing Cape Mountain passes on weekends when I have time. I plan to put the car on the track (not competitively) once it is a bit further down the road.

Have struggled to find people who know the car in Cape Town! Have tried 2 places so far and they have; put the wrong front shocks on, overfilled with oil, wrong spark plugs, wrong rotor and the linkage was totally out of alignment when I set it up myself.

I had a great mechanic in Johannesburg (Jhb) who worked on my 73 911E, he new the cars backwards and all the right stuff to upgrade to. My new Car is going into Porsche Cape Town tomorrow, apparently they have a technician who trained in Germany on the MFI engines. This will be the 1st time it goes onto a Dyno since I bought it in Jhb last year.

* Happy to spend up to $15 to $20 K.
* New Koni's at the back!
* Ordered new standard front shocks (on back order) from Porsche as they say the Billsteins are too hard for the weight of the car!
* Don't have anti roll bars yet and the torsion bars look standard.
* Have to check and measure the breaks, not sure what is on the car at present but it had new pads on! They tent to fade though after a bit of hard driving!

As it is now, driving the car at sunrise with no traffic on Chapman’s Peak and the road out to Llandudno is one of the rare pleasure of life.

colin

already, has it been dynoed, what do you use it for etc.):

[Bobboloo]

As Tom and Tristan say there's not a lot you can do to improve on what is an already great motor. A bump in compression would be about it. That and an increase to 2.8L. Very expensive to do for such marginal gains.

Also, you really have to wind this motor up to atleast 6000 RPM, preferably 7000 RPM to appreciate it's abilities.

As expressed by other members here suspension is the best place to look for increased performance.

When setting up your suspension you need to look at it as a whole package. The shocks or dampers as they should really be called need to match your springs. Likewise, the anti-roll bars need to match the shocks and springs. Front needs to match rear. There's lots of info on this here on this board. You can use the search engine in the top right corner to search the board.

Just having the car properly aligned can make a big difference in the handling.

Judging from what you say about the lack of knowledgable people in Capetown you will find this board to be your best friend. There's not one problem that you won't be able to fix with the help of this board.

Here's a search to get you started on suspension mods:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=1091804&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

[Willem Fick]

Cape Town,

Don't go Koni! Not that they're bad shocks - the local support is just not up to scratch, and the distribution rights change more often than I do my mind! At present I think it is with CRS, but that should already serve as ample warning (Ricers!)

Aah what the hech, no sense in boring everyone with a long mail - you have PM!

Warm regards!

Willem Fick