Camber settings

Brother · 02-27-2005, 05:45 PM

I need a front end alignment because one of my wheels is severely cambered and the other is not. I figured this out after realizing that my right front is balder than Mr. Clean and the other is ok.

What are some generic or factory settings for a mostly streeted 911?

My car was lowered. Possibly even slightly lower than the euro height.

Here is the Tire.

Brother · 02-27-2005, 06:09 PM

I summon the pros......

MotoSook · 02-27-2005, 06:14 PM

http://www.dorkiphus.com/porsche/modules.php?set_albumName=album04&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Brother · 02-27-2005, 07:15 PM

ask and you shall recieve.

Wil Ferch · 02-28-2005, 07:03 AM

From the photos.....find out what you were running and add about 0.1 to 0.2 degrees more positive camber. check other side for compliance.

Hint: 1 mm adjustment on the top shock mount is approx = to 0.1 degree at the wheel.

-Wil

Brother · 02-28-2005, 05:22 PM

I read the pamphlet that Souk passed on to me. When I loosen the three bolts on top of the strut tower, how difficult is it to move the whole thing over? Do you need to have the front up on jacks? Either way the tire is smoked.

djmcmath · 02-28-2005, 05:27 PM

Oh, that tire has a lot of good miles left in it ... as a tire swing. Is the left side significantly less worn? If the wear patterns are different, that's alignment. If one is much less worn than the other, it might point to something else. Not sure what, honestly -- corner balance, maybe? Only making left turns, maybe?

Dan

masraum · 02-28-2005, 05:28 PM

A pretty common set of numbers is -1* front camber with 1/32 toe in, and -1.5* rear camber with 1/16" toe in, but even with that unless you do track days or drive aggressively you'll bald the inside of your tires.

Brother · 02-28-2005, 05:33 PM

I think I'll use the stock numbers out of the bentley manual as this is my transport to and from work primarily and an Autox car second.

How hard is it to move those strut mounts though?

Zeke · 02-28-2005, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brother
I think I'll use the stock numbers out of the bentley manual as this is my transport to and from work primarily and an Autox car second.

How hard is it to move those strut mounts though?

Just tap them around to what you think (

) you want with a hammer and a wood block. With the car on the ground or up, doesn't matter. You are going to change the toe if change the camber. Know that.

afterburn 549 · 02-28-2005, 06:21 PM

you might find you need to egg shape the holes in the tower to get enough of what you want......anyone else find that??

Brother · 02-28-2005, 07:03 PM

I guess this is a "how bad can i really screw it up" type of thing. We'll add it to the list of things getting done this weekend when we drop my engine.

Wil Ferch · 03-01-2005, 06:18 AM

Hold on.....

It is much easier if the car is elevated ( off the wheels) on the front. If you loosen all three bolts on one side with the car on the ground....at some point you'll hear "whumph" and the strut is suddenly all on one side...screws up caster too.

Jack up the front, and loosen each of the three bolts slowly and not "too" loose. Maybe use a marker pen to establish where you were in the beginning ( both directions...sideways and front-to-back). Then carefully eyeball going only sideways ( camber adjustment) and don't let it move fore-aft if you're otherwise OK with caster. Use the 1mm = 0.1 degree trick and you should be all set. I don't think toe moves *that* much if at all for very small camber changes of 0.1 to 0.2 degrees.

Wil