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jplavanjr's Avatar
 
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Exhaust studs & thread locker question

What (if any) color loctite should I use when installing new exhaust studs for the headers on my 2.0L race motor?

Thanks

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Old 03-03-2005, 12:28 PM
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Every recommendation I've seen is for Red Loctite on head studs.
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:41 PM
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I don't use locktight on exhaust,. I use antisieze, so I can get them off with out breaking the studs off in the case. Craig
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:46 PM
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I agree, anti seize.
Old 03-03-2005, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RickM

Every recommendation I've seen is for Red Loctite on head studs.
ditto

although I would tend to agree with Craig, except I was reading a thread about fastners and Jim Sims or Randy Webb said it's a bad idea to not use red when attaching the studs to the heads.
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Last edited by RoninLB; 03-03-2005 at 01:00 PM..
Old 03-03-2005, 12:58 PM
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I think it's red for studs into head and anti-seize on exposed end for nuts.
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RickM

I think it's red for studs into head and anti-seize on exposed end for nuts.
my act is nickel anti seize for all exhaust nuts.
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:17 PM
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From Warren:

"Red Loctite should be used on the threaded portion in the heads ... after chasing the threads with a tap, and degreasing thoroughly with brake cleaner/degreaser. Anti-sieze compound should be used on the nuts!"

Warren is also more specific in another thread in recommending Loctite Red #271 (NAPA). Hopefully he can verify.
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:19 PM
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I personally wouldn't use any thread locker on the exhaust studs. Maybe I don't get out enough but I've never seen one come loose. Usually it's really hard to get them to come out at all.
-Chris
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:36 PM
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Cool

I would use the anti-seize on the exposed threads. (any color)

Most of the time the stud has seized in the head anyway.

David Duffield
Old 03-03-2005, 02:57 PM
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heat breaks down loctite. exhaust ports are damn hot. so loctite would probably be redundant in that application. i just put them in dry. anti-seize on the outer stud and nut.
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for all of the replies.

Still not sure what I'll do though. Seems to be split with: Red, anti-sieze, or nothing. Leaning towards nothing on the stud into the head, anti-sieze on the nut threads.

Anyone else to help me make the decision?
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Old 03-03-2005, 05:28 PM
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I just swap out my muffler/cat with Dansk sport stuff, I reuse the bolts and nuts, where can I buy a new set of these bolts and anti sieze, does local shop like auto zone sell them ?

TIA
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:21 PM
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Friday Morning bump.
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Old 03-04-2005, 05:43 AM
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JP:
Not to be a wise guy...but John Walker gives gold-plated advice and your very next post says "I don't know what to do".....

Here's MY advice.....take JW's advice .... Red loctite breaks down with heat and is redundant. Think of the head stud issue...those are loctited-in and require heat (usually) to remove. But cyl head area is HOT as a working environment.

Other experienced people note that it would have been nice to have anti-seize on the exposed portion that the nut rides on....good advice too.

Wil
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:06 AM
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Now, which nuts to use?

Take it away, Wil...
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:25 AM
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LOL!

Rick, I believe...is referring to my continued push of using Silicon/Bronze nuts as fasteners for the muffler portions of the car.

The problem here is that the size of the stud is ( I think) 8mm and I was not able to find Si/Br metric. Maybe stainless on a normal carbon steel stud with anti-seize ??? Anyone??

- Wil
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:34 AM
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any place that sell these type of bolts / nut ( SS or coper), I need a set for my new muffler

TIA
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wil Ferch

LOL!

I was not able to find Si/Br metric. Maybe stainless on a normal carbon steel stud with anti-seize ???
that was funny in context.

so if you tell me yours, I'll tell you mine !
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:46 AM
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JP,

You said you always put your stud in DRY....LOL

Why question yourself now?

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Old 03-04-2005, 09:03 AM
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