count me in!

Thge latest attempt at LCD lights just didn't do it - just changed the color of the light, but did not make them any brighter! definitely interested!

Caching, I'm in. Been wanting this for the longest time!

I'm in too!

Hi all.. Home today with the family. Just wanted to check in.

For the record I only have 30-3W bulbs and 10-2W bulbs for testing. If they work Plan A is to offer Wayne the contact info and he can add to his product line. Perhaps a replacement harness, fuse and bulb kit or bulbs with instructions can be offered. How many bulbs are in the typical setup?

Warren, thanks for the well thought out testing advice. I should have a power supply or two around here. I'm going to try and utilize existing equipment if possible.

(BTW, I just received my Thermocouple and Stainless K probe to do the torch comparison. Can't wait. Thanks to all who suggested the type of equipment to use.)

Be back tomorrow.

This thread is worthless without pics :cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110378688.jpg

You must be younger than I am.

Okay, so it sounds like the existing wire loom is arguably capable of handling the additional current, but that heavier wire would be better. How many wires would need to be replaced?

The availability of the 3w bulbs has created a fair bit of interest here. I hope you get the source information to Wayne quickly. I'd like to have these bulbs. Ideally there would be a kit, particularly if it's a good idea to change some wires.

Gosh, a guy could even paint the bulbs to achieve a custom dash color, and still have sufficient brightness.

I would DEFINITELY be interested in a protected/fused "plug and play" harness with new bulbs.

- Skip

Anyone have their dash off to show us what's involved with the harness? A pic would be great.

Rick..deal me in too. Let me know if I can help with the testing.

Would love to see this work out. Keep us in the loop!

JoeA

I am thinking a .5" fiber optic rod connected to a q-beam :D

rick, neat stuff.

i was thinking about the light meter. IF you have an older manual camera, like a NIKON FM or something, couldnt you use the light meter built in? you may have to use the bulb to illuminate something, like a small photographic grey card. then simply measure the aperature at a set shutter speed. (or opposite, in shutter priority mode). basically, note what setting the camera will require you to shoot the "photo" in. then the next bulb you can measure relative brightness. i am sure you will have to do this in consistent conditions, like a dark room with the bulbs at a set distance. i dont know what will happen if the bulb is 1.70x brighter, because all camera stuff is double or halves, when it comes to exposure.

cliff

Cliff thanks for the advice. My father does have a light meter. It was part of a Camera ensemle he picked up when he was stationed in Germany during the Korean war. IIRC the camera is a Kodak Retina. Anyway he has a seperate meter.

I'm planning on somehow mounting the bulb onto one end of a tube...perhaps a 2'-3' section of pvc. The meter mounted on the other end.

No matter how scientific I get the bottom line is that it illuminates the guages better :D

UPDATE: My dad's light meter is inadequate. Therefore, I just purchased one and will hopefully have by week's end. Everything will be ready when the meter arrives.

they'll be fine. just send me some!

I'll take 25 of them..

O.k. before I'm in as well,....but before that.......
is there a company-issued comparison chart?
i.e. average amperage draw vs. OEM wire size vs.AMP vs. candlelight at a near and far reading?

Science will prove most....

Just send me some as well - I'll be the guinea pig!

Only reason being I put 80/100 watt bulb in the headlights (up from the "stock"60W ) and the turn signal stalk burned up while driving at night.
I hadn't put in a headlight relay kit yet.