great thinking John.
So you'll have the motivation to do a voltage drop test on the circuit Before & After the 3w install asap ?

I want them anyway. I'll re-wire if I have to. i already have a 4amp re-set cb in their already.

I'd like to buy those bulbs as well.

I am also interested in what wiring/switches I will want to upgrade.

I am not particularly concerned about how the additional brightness measures on a lightmeter. If you do measure the brightness, definitely have the bulb illuminating a larger and evenly lit surface, and meter off that surface, or it will be hard to get a consistent measurement. be sure the camera is metering off just the lit surface, not the rest of the dash, a spot meter will be helpful. But in the end, 3v is going to be more light than 2v, so who cares if it is 1/2 f-stop or 1/3 f-stop better? Note that the margin of error in even very expensive spot meters is 1/3 f-stop.

I was doing some calculations in regard to the wiring harness for the instrument lights. (anyone know what gauge wire is in there???) Anyway, with 10 -2 watt bulbs in use at 13 volts you are drawing 1.53 amps. Same voltage with 10 -3 watt bulbs and the draw is 2.3 amps. 24 gauge wire is rated at 3.5 amps. 22 awg rated at 7. I doubt this is going to be an issue.

Warren wrote on the 1st page..."The instrument illumination bulb Black/Blue wiring is 0.5 mm^2, or slightly smaller than 20 ga on the AWG chart".

I have an Email into the gentleman who procured the bulbs asking for the distributor/manufacturer contact info.

What about heat dissipation? An incandescent bulb using 50% more power that will be on for extended peroiods of time could get hotter than the designers intended.

I'm holding out for the LED solution ;)

I'm looking at an automotive wiring chart and it appears that 13 feet of 20 awg is good for 8 amps!
http://www.industryfigure.com/berkeley/jeep/electrical/autowiring.htm

The led's ( I haven't tried mine yet ) might work better in the foglight switch and rear window defroster switch..at least the light is pointing in the right direction.

I thought of this as well....but I'm not buying a thermometer. :)

Count me in!

Heat, I wouldn't lose any sleep over that, metal bulb sockets, metal cased gauges..I once measured the heated air temperature coming from the heat exchangers into the cabin..at the defrost vents I pinned the thermometer a 250 degrees! can you say paper ducts!!!

count me in

Ignore the naysayers, I want some bulbs. i will take care of the electrical needs, just sell me some bulbs! Please!

Count me in too!

Better increase the order, I'm interested too.

don't forget... lol

.

See my test thread for the less than stellar results. The 3 watters are brighter but not by much. I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve. I will beat this.

Rick,

Add me to the list. Was on the first list but who knows where it is.

A question... what kind of light meter is your Fathers??? Does it start with a "L"??? :)

JoeA

Joe, I'll check and let you know.

I once bought some gauge bulbs from Performance Products and mistakenly given 6 volt bulbs used for 356s?. When I installed them, those suckers were so bright, there were definite bright spots and uneveness from where the bulbs were replaced in relation to the original bulbs. They didn't last for more than about an hour before burning out - which was a good thing because I thought they were too bright and I didn't like it.

See what happens when you buy from "the other guys?" http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/shake.gif http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/nono.gif