Weltmeister Rear Sway Bar Instruction / Installation Manual

fireant911 · 01:57 PM

My car already had a Weltmeister Rear Sway Bar installed when I purchased this vehicle. Recently, I have been experiencing some 'clunking' when making left (non-high speed) turns. The culprit was one of the adjustable links that was making contact with the trailing arm. KobaltBlau was helpful in identifying the manufacturer of my sway bar. My sway bar diameter is 0.880" (22.352 mm) so I am assuming that these are the 22mm variety. 9070 is the only identification stamped on the sway bar that I was able to locate.

Sway Bar Manufacturer Identification

I went to the Weltmeister web site to see about obtaining a copy of the instructions but the number provided is actually the number for Performance Products. Does anyone who has previously installed Weltmeister rear sway bars have an old, 'no longer needed' copy around? Scanning would be the preferred choice since you could keep your original copy and I could get the info that I desperately need.

fireant911 · 03-07-2005, 01:55 PM

my single bump

HarryD · 03-07-2005, 04:32 PM

Is this what you need?

fireant911 · 03-08-2005, 03:16 AM

HarryD,
Yes, that is 'kinda' what I need (providing that there is more than the parts list). I am looking for the procedures to properly install this sway bar - mine is already installed but something is amiss on at least one side and I need to obtain the actual setup instructions to make things right. Do you have an additional page(s) that will contain this information?

I certainly thank you for assisting me in my search.

robfike · robfike's Garage

Performance Products bought Weltmeister. If you call them, they can fax or e-mail you a copy. They also have some replacement parts. My problem was that front and rear bars came with my car, but some of the parts were missing. The instructions were also missing. I had the instructions within 5 min, and the parts the next week.

HarryD · 03-08-2005, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by fireant911
HarryD,
Yes, that is 'kinda' what I need (providing that there is more than the parts list). I am looking for the procedures to properly install this sway bar - mine is already installed but something is amiss on at least one side and I need to obtain the actual setup instructions to make things right. Do you have an additional page(s) that will contain this information?

I certainly thank you for assisting me in my search.

Sorry but that's all I got forthe rear bar.

KobaltBlau · 03-08-2005, 06:17 AM

fireant, if you do get this information perhaps you could provide it to me; at least offline, I'm about to be in the same situation you are.

Thanks,

Zeke · 03-08-2005, 06:30 AM

Your bar has most likely slid to one side. Tap it back to center and install some hose clamps on the inside of each bushing to keep it centered.

The hose clamps look terrible, IMO, but they work. If you can find something a little more sanitary like the engine chain tensioner collars with a 22mm hole, they would look better and do a better job. The hose clamps may dig into your bushings, but your bar will stay centered and you won't hear the clunk. It's a good fix, even if only temporary.

KobaltBlau · 06:51 AM

something like this would be nice, I think it would work nicely but haven't tried:

http://www.climaxmetal.com/2pc_metric_collar.htm

On the other hand, if hose clamps work...

fireant911 · 11:40 AM

HarryD,
Could you possibly write down the information in the upper right hand corner of the parts list sheet you posted earlier. I tried calling Performance Parts this morning and without the exact kit identification they could be of no help to me.

The information appears to me to read like:

W4 INS Z0-7400-4-5
SKU 159520

Could you please confirm this information so I can contact Performance Parts again and hopefully obtain this information for both myself and KobaltBlau?

no substitute · 03-08-2005, 10:14 AM

Hose clamps come with the kits. I forget if they came with the 914 rear or the 911 rear--both I think. In any event they're official Weltmeister issue, though a little tacky. Zeke is correct, and I agree with him that there might be something more attractive than hose clamps. Also, check your factory body clamps, as they will eventually tear (happened to many of us) from the added stress of the larger bar.

randywebb · 03-08-2005, 10:37 AM

the type clamps that PMO used to supply to squeeze off fuel lines would also work instead of hose clamps.

HarryD · 03-08-2005, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by fireant911
HarryD,
Could you possibly write down the information in the upper right hand corner of the parts list sheet you posted earlier. I tried calling Performance Parts this morning and without the exact kit identification they could be of no help to me.

The information appears to me to read like:

W4 INS Z0-7400-4-5
SKU 159520

Could you please confirm this information so I can contact Performance Parts again and hopefully obtain this information for both myself and KobaltBlau?

How about the other page that I forgot I had:

rlh930 · 03-08-2005, 11:28 PM

You could slit a piece of garden hose and clamp the hose clamps around that. Then the hose is all that would contact the bushing. Still inelegant, but at least it would stop the clamp from eating the bushing.

fireant911 · 03-09-2005, 03:24 AM

HarryD,
That is the missing piece of the puzzle!!! Many thanks.

The 'not-so-aesthetic' clamps (part 'C' on the parts sheet), at least in my particular case, were not the problem. The clamps are firmly seated where they have been since their original installation. The driver's side drop link was at a severe angle which permitted the bolt (part 'N') to come into contact with the trailing arm due to the slider clamp (part 'M') moving further aft on the sway bar. My annoying 'clunk' is gone and thanks to HarryD, I will be making the proper adustments to the sway bar today that will put the system back to it's original, intended configuration.

fireant911 · 03-09-2005, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KobaltBlau
fireant, if you do get this information perhaps you could provide it to me; at least offline, I'm about to be in the same situation you are.

Thanks,

HarryD's page 2 information has been manually converted to Word and has been E-mailed to you.

no substitute · 03-09-2005, 10:46 AM

Why was the angle so severe? Just for future reference. Thanks.

fireant911 · 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by no substitute
Why was the angle so severe? Just for future reference. Thanks.

That is a really good question for which I do not have an answer. This 'clunking' has been occurring intermittently ever since I purchased the car - could have originally been installed incorrectly by the PO??? When I finally discovered this anomaly I had to loosen the slider clamp and move it (with a great amount of force) with a pry bar since the bolt holding the drop link was in physical contact with the trailing arm. That very temporary setup was incorrect and HarryD was able to save the day with the correct instructions. I used the procedures and basically removed the entire sway bar and started at the very beginning. Everything is fine and I am still at a loss on what happened that caused the severe angle.

Since I was by myself performing this procedure and instructions recommended someone to be in the driver's seat during the final droplink adjustment, I weighed myself and started gathering various materials to place in the driver's seat. I ended up with two large bags of dog food, two 20 pound dumbbells, three Pine Mountain jumbo fire logs, three gallons of indoor latex paint, and a case of cafferine-free diet Coke. It was not pretty but it worked (I got within one pound of my current weight).

For anyone else that is interested in the procedures (some of the characters were quite hard to read but this is quite close):

911 REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION

1. Read all instructions prior to starting work.

2. Block front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car, put on jack stands, and remove thed rear wheels.

3. Remove any rear sway bar and brackets that may be on the car.

4. If your car does not have the factory mounting plates and brackets for the factory rear sway bar, install Adapter Kit SB-2900.

5. Remove the stock toe-in adjusting eccentric bolt (this is the most forward of the three eccentric bolts). Replace it with the eccentric bolt/washer/nut (FED) from the kit and torque to 45 foot/pounds.

6. Each bushing (B) is marked with a part number on the end. 1965-77 cars use the smaller bushing, number 009. 1978-on cars use the larger bushing, number 027. When cars have no factory rear sway bar and are using adapter kit SB-2900, use the smaller 009 bushing.

Lubricate the inside of the Poly-Graphite bushings (B) with a good moly-lube and slip over the sway bar. Mount the sway bar to the car with the bushing clamps but do not tighten yet.

7. Assemble the drop links. Insert the rod end liners (G) into the rod ends (I):this may take the tap of a hammer. Thread the jam nuts (J) all the way up the drop link shafts (K). Thread the rod ends (I) almost all the way up the shafts. Insert the rubber bushings (L) into the hoop end of the drop links, and insert the metal bushing liners (Q) into the rubber bushings (ArmorAll or soapy water will make this easier).

Secure the drop links by attaching the rod ends to the eccentric bolts using washers (H) and allen bolt (P). Do not overtighten. Slip a slider clamp (M/T) over each sway bar arm, but do not tighten yet. Insert the hoop end of the drop link with the rubber bushings into the slider clamp and secure with bolt/washer/nut (NRS) but do not tighten yet. For a starting position, place the slider clamps so the drop links are perpendicular to the sway arm bar. Make sure the clamps are at the same position on both arms and tighten. To reduce understeer (push) adjust the sway bar stiffness by moving the slider clamp toward the front of the car. To reduce oversteer, move the slider clamp to the rear.

8. Center the sway bar. Wipe off any excess grease from the sway bar. Install the hose clamps (C) next to the inside of each sway bar bushing.

9. Replace the wheels and set the car on the ground. Drop link adjustment is done in order to remove any preload on the sway bar that would cause different handling characteristics between left-hand and right-hand corners. Adjustment is best done with someone in the driver’s seat. Drive the car back and forth a few hundred feet to settle the suspension, and come to a smooth, slow stop. From one side remove the bolt (P) holding the rod end part of the drop link to the eccentric. There is no preload when the rod end can slide freely from side to side on this bolt. Adjust the length of this drop link until the bolt can be easily threaded into the eccentric again. When this adjustment is reached, tighten all jam nuts, and double-check that all bolts are properly tightened.