Help - installing new spark plug wires - running POORLY after
 

This is going to sound really lame. Especially since I used to work as a mechanic and pride myself at having decent experience and a bit of common sense. I just got my '86 3.2 carrera engine running last night after getting my car (71 tub - RSR look) back from the bodyshop. Last night the car ran great (but just in the garage), though it was VERY loud with the MB911 RSR dual outlet muffler. That's the good news.

This morning, I changed out the stock spark plug wires (Beru), which were no longer flexible (they were petrified, actually.) Despite the condition of the wires, the engine idled and revved very well.

I installed new Clewett wires from Pelican for my application. They look very nice. At first, they seemed tough to install as far as seating the spark plug ends, but I read the directions and went to work. Having learned from other posts, I listened for the click when the wire ends "click" in place onto the spark plug terminals. Once I had everything ready to go, I fired up the engine. It ran like *****. Really badly, would barely idle. Wouldn't rev, smells like raw fuel, big time. Obviously a spark problem (at least that is my thought). My clothes still smell like unburned fuel.

First, I figured I had the order messed up. I have double and triple checked the order, even matching the numbers on the wires to those on the cap. I've inspected the rotor and cap and both look very new. I've traced the wires and the longest on each side go to the back.

I'm thinking I should install the old wires and see how it runs. I actually placed a call to Clewett, hoping for a magic bullet. He said to make sure the ends click onto the plug. I did pull two plugs and test fit to listening for the click, so I could see it work. Both plugs were wet w/ fuel, not dripping, but definitely wet and smelly.

I am confident I have all six properly installed in the correct firing order. My garage is bright, so I couldn't see any "glow" from leaking spark, when it was running.

Additionally, I tried swapping back the old wire from the distributor to coil with the same result.

Any thoughts?

What am I missing?

Doug

Gotta be firing order surely?

Are you using left rearmost cylinder as No1?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1111697035.jpg

Yeah, the one wire is so short, it wouldn't fit anywhere else. Number six is very long and doesn't fit anywhere else. I just used that same diagram and checked again, everything is 100% correct in firing order. This is really puzzling.

Doug

Unfortunately it sounds like its time to fire it up and start pulling wires individually...one or more must not be firing.........

Guys - good thoughts.
Thanks for your consideration!

Doug

Did you make sure that they were well seated into the distributor cap?

Neil,
Thanks! they actually click when they mate with the studs. They all seem to be well seated on both ends :-( I'm thinking I need to put the old wires in one by one and see how it runs.

Doug

Doug, I just went through this last weekend myself. Replaced the stock, crumbly wires in my 86 3.2 with new Clewett wires. I had the same result after the first try - engine ran rough. The problem was that the wires don't always give a nice satisfying click, so I had to keep pulling them off and putting them back on several times before I had all 6 on there. The ones that actually click you can be sure of, and just work on the others. Also, make sure they're tight on the distributor cap. It took me about an hour of trial and error before I got all of them on good.

It would be an awful lot easier if the plugs weren't buried 5 inches deep. Even when I thought a plug was on, it wasn't always.

To clarify I meant the wire ends click when they mate with the studs on the distributor cap. Both ends seem well seated. I'm wondering if I ended up with a bad set of wires? This seems rare, but something I haven't ruled out. It runs so bad though that I think it has to be more than one dead cylinder.

Yesterday it ran smooth as could be.

Doug

Dave,
Thanks for the heads up! I did notice the click to be getting easier to generate. For some reason, the engine seems to be running worse, though I've gotten all six to firmly click into place. I'll go at it again and report back.

Doug

I'm sure you are a pretty good mechanic. I'm not that bad myself. But, I can tell you that I have felt certain that I have had the wires in order more than once when changing them out and they weren't.

As soon as I heard the misfire, I went to work finding out which wires were wrong and invarialby, I found one pair swapped. If that is the only thing you have done to the car, what else could it be?

I guess you could check the wires with a meter just to be sure.

Some of us right-brained (or is it left?) guys have a harder time with this than others. ;)

Dave,
Did you apply any di-electric grease to the boot end which clicks onto the plug?

Doug

Zeke,
Good thoughts - I'm confident it is "pilot" error happening here. I'm posting because I know I probably made a mistake. I'll review order again as I triple check the clicking and maybe pull out the Ohm meter.

Will circle back around with all of you to let you know what's going on.

Doug

Did you replace them one at a time or all at once?

If the dizzy's been out before (Likely on a 911) it may have re-installed incorrectly and to compensate the wires might have been moved round one or two poles (on the cap). Double check by lining up Z1 on crank to mark on housing. Rotor should be pointing to 1 or 4 depending on which cyl is on firing stroke.

Also check multiplug to AFM hasn't got dislodged.

This has gotta be something simple....

Dizz rotor is good?

I didn't even remove the distributor cap, to replace the wires. I replaced the wires one at a time, but all six + one to coil before restarting the engine.

When it ran poorly, I double checked the cap and rotor condition. They both look brand new.

Doug

Yes, I put a nice blob just inside the opening of the plug end. and spread it around inside a little. I wasn't sure that was where I was supposed to put it (this was my first time changing plug wires and have never seen anyone else do it), but I managed to get the job done. I installed a new cap and rotor at the same time.

I had this exact same problem with the Clewett wires. I just sent mine back to Pelican today. I believe I was sent the wrong wires. Mine were about 3/4" too long and did not seal to the valve covers. I had no rubber boots on the end of the connectors and the seals for the valve cover were not made to adjust. I measured the stock Beru wires with the Clewett wires that I had and the Clewett wires were 1/4" longer. They would click on the plug no doubt. Pelican is sending me another set of Clewett wires since they think the wrong wires were placed in my box. My car would run but it had no power. There is no way they could have been the right wires compared to the old because it is physically impossible for them to seal. Were your plugs sealing with the valve covers?

hoff944 - they don't seat well with the valve covers and they are too long because I don't have AC installed and these are intended to route below the compressor. I may have to give them up.

Doug