From what I am reading it appears that the ignition switch may well have failed. However, I'd hate to go to the trouble of removing the switch just to find that it is all right. Where does the yellow wire coming off the ignition switch terminate? From the schematic it looks like it is at a 6 terminal connector. If I can find this terminal couldn't I check the voltage at this point when I turn the key?

Alternatively, can the wires be removed from the ignition swithch without removing the switch itself? This is unclear to me from the posts I've read.

Bob

Bob,
This might be a case of the "reach around" to access, but not positive how to access your year ign. switch. The earlier models simply unscrewed from the panel. Yours is probably more involved with a steering wheel lock. Didn't the later switches come in two subassemblies (tumbler section vs. electrical section)?

Others may provide more info.

Sherwood

I'm laying in a bildge between two engines and all I have is a Huge screwdriver. It's a tight squeeze&maneuver.. but it could be done. Both engines have a common ground, battery bank is my pillow, and I'm wearing a 3oz silver bracelet.

flash zoom pow heat, and toasted hairs... "wow"

I had this exact problem on my 77', check to make sure the engine electrical harness is connected tightly right behind the 3 fuse box on the left rear of the engine compartment. Mine was a little loose and would to this intermittently. Very frustrating but a very easy fix. Good luck.

Mike

yep.. you may have a stock yellow wire connector Y laying behind your gauges that's 29yrs dirty? Opening up the trunk accesed wiring may be less work? That's also the area alarm nostart is usually connected. The cabin bulkhead plug feeds the trunk yellow wire.

yep.. that's the dirtiest and disturbed connector in the whole circuit before sol.

Originally posted by Kayser28
"...make sure the engine electrical harness is connected tightly right behind the 3 fuse box on the left rear of the engine compartment."

Just to put this thread to bed, at least tempoarily. I traced the "yellow" solenoid wire to the connector mentioned above and removed the connector which was firmly seated. There was a bit of corrosion on some of the pins, I didn't take the time to clean it, but squirted a little WD40 on the connector and replaced.

Then I wedged myself under the steering wheel so I could look at the wiring coming from the ignition switch. I removed the three 6-pin (?) connectors from their sockets so I could see a little better and noticed that the connector farthest to my left (nearest the middle of the car) had the yellow wire coming from the ignition switch among the wires it was connecting. Then after looking around a bit more I plugged everything back in. Trying to come out from underneath the dash I momentarily thought I'd need the jaws of life, but once I was out (you guessed it) I put the key in the ignition turned it and the engine started immediately.

I don't think I've seen the last of this problem, but I've learned something–it's been interesting.

Thank you to everyone for all of your suggestions. I'm sure I'll be coming to you again. Now on to the brakes which barely work!

Hooray. There is an alternative to replacing parts.

Sherwood

Bob: Get yourself some dielectric grease (Or Vaseline in a pinch) and redo the multi-connector, ignition switch and any other connectors you can find. After so many years, corrosion is an issue with these cars, especially the fuse blocks. Electrical problems are a real PITA and I greased every terminal I could find.
WD-40 is just a cleaner and will evaporate; dielectric grease is permanent.
Also, consider the starter relay kit that mounts right next to the starter and will carry the load instead of the ignition switch. Go here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/electrical/hot_start_kit.jpg
and:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_starter_diag/mult_starter_diag.htm