Last-Minute Thrash Before Lime Rock

[304065]

Well, I've sent in my entry fees for the Lime Rock PCA club race. Rather than leave well enough alone I've decided to do some major suspension mods at the last minute. Between now and the 28th, I'm going to:

1) Remove rear bumper. I've ordered a fiberglass RS bumper from Rennspeed.

1a) Drop engine. I've ordered an ATV jack for this purpose.

2) Remove Weltmeister sway bar and measure spring plate angle with suspension at full droop. Scribe spring plate angle on chassis for future reference.

2) Remove calipers, brake lines, and steel trailing arms.

3) Install Elephant Racing monoballs in aluminum trailing arms.

4) Install Elephant Racing Polybronze Bearings on new set of Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates.

5) Install aluminum trailing arms. I have a set from a '74 that have four-bolt flanges in them.

6) Install adjustable spring plates, reset torsion bars to original droop angle.

7) Install brake caliper and lines. Install parking brake parts.

8) Reinstall Weltmeister sway bar. This should attach using the eccentric bolt. I'm pretty sure this is how it bolts up now, although I have the original non-adjustable factory spring plates with adjustable droplinks. If they aren't factory droplinks they don't mount to the ball stud. I think the '74 arms I have have only one ball stud presently.

9) Reinstall engine.

10) Replace wheel bearings in '74 arms.

11) Install fiberglass bumper.

Then the whole car goes off for a corner balance and align.

This is going to be a serious thrash to get done. Am I nuts?

[jluetjen]

Your nuts!

[jpnovak]

I won't comment about your mental stability but that project is do-able in the time allowed. Be prepared for a few late nights and long weekends.

[chrisp]

why the engine drop? To get to the inner control arm bolts?

[ChrisBennet]

For the springplates I prefer to put some masking tape on the body and scribe the line on that.
-Chris

[Moses]

Originally posted by john_cramer
Am I nuts?

Absolutely! You're going to love the changes. Take pictures.

[304065]

Yes, the engine drop is to gain access to the front mounting bolts.

I have to resist the temptation to clean and detail everything or there's no way I will finish. My goal is to get everything out in one weekend and back in with the next two.

[Dan J]

John,
No need to drop engine call me (203 262 0569), or pm me for super fast timesaving method
Dan Jacobs

[Jim Richards]

Originally posted by Dan J
John,
No need to drop engine call me (203 262 0569), or pm me for super fast timesaving method
Dan Jacobs

No fair, Dan! If you know a quick and easy (no drop) method for early 911's, you gotta share it with us!

[PcarPhil]

Originally posted by Dan J
John,
No need to drop engine call me (203 262 0569), or pm me for super fast timesaving method
Dan Jacobs

Please post your super fast timesaving method here.

-Kaefer

[Dan J]

Okay here goes but don't dis me till you try it.
Remove nut from bolt. Push bolt towards trans as far as you can. Cut exposed portion of bolt off (plasma cutter,torch, sawzall whatever just don't be an idiot and burn down your car, garage, house,neighborhood , whatever) Push the remaining portion of the bolt out and remove the trailing arm. Then proceed to your friendly local indusrial hardware and buy 2 14x ?? ( I forget the length it's the same as the bolt your replacing I'll look at my shop tomorrow) Allen head bolts (at least grade 8.8 but I prefer 10.9 ) and hardened washers then install them from the outside of the mount they'll go in like butta saving you many hours. Being the laziest man alive forced me to invent this method and I've used it for years although I know the purist's in the crowd may be aghast
Dan Jacobs

[Kraftwerk]

John Cramer,
If you need a hand I could help open beers for you.
No really, if you finish early my car needs more or less the same treatment.


At least you are very organized about the whole thing...

[Jim Richards]

Thanks Dan!

[KobaltBlau]

Originally posted by john_cramer
Am I nuts?

no, as long as you don't have a job or a family or girlfriend or anything.

[lateapex911]

John, PM me...I am close, have tools and wouldn't mind stopping by...

[jluetjen]

I've seen/heard of Dan J's method before. There's nothing wrong with it. The only caveat that I have is with the choice of bolts. I've got to go back and check my sources, but moving to a higher number rating for the bolt is not always a good thing, especially when dealing with suspension pieces. Yes the higher numbered bolts are "stronger" as a result of them being harder. But harder isn't necessarily better since it also brings with it an increased brittleness. While a 10.9 may technically be stronger, an 8.8 bolt may be tougher in the face of repeated shocks and abuse before failing. This is definitely something to consider since John Cramer will be using this in a race application.

[304065]

Dan, thanks. You are a true gentleman on and off the track. For those of you fellas who don't know Dan, he's not only an accomplished racer himself but runs an excellent shop in Oxford, CT, and the cars he supports finish VERY well.

Gentlemen, who am I to refuse someone to wrench/drink beer/debate 20th century European history with? Pm's sent.

[Dan J]

John,
The bolt size is 14x85 mm. You're also going to need new spring plate bolts(4) and different camber adj eccentrics they are longer on the alum arms. You'll also need new metal brake lines the ones between the flex line and calipers
Dan J