Help!!!! Transmission/Engine split

[neiltorda]

Hi everyone,
I posted back in November about my 71t losing all power at the wheels and the clutch pedal hitting the floor....
well, i finally got around to pulling the engine yesterday and now i can't get the engine/transmission separated.

I have Wayne's book somewhere in my garage, but... well... you haven't seen my garage after my wife went on a cleanup spree over the new year

so, I am using a haynes manual for the removal and seperation. It had me take the engine transmission out as a unit. I have the unit sitting on a dolly. I have removed the starter and don't know what I am supposed to be doing to get the transmission separated.

According to the haynes manual, I am supposed to screw a screw into the threaded rivet I can see through the starter opening.
Question 1: How far in do i screw the screw?

Once I have the one screwed in, i am supposed to turn the flywheel until I can do the same to the next two screws. However, when I turn the flywheel, it spins freely (the belt, and therefore, the crank don't turn)

Question 2: How do i turn the engine so that the flywheel turns so i can access the other rivets? (and do i turn clockwise, or counter cw?)

I have some pics of the engine out, will post them as soon as i get my camera cable from the office.

What else might I be doing wrong?

by the way... won't really know until i get the unit split apart, but the clutch lever (throwout bearing fork?) is completely loose and hanging out of its hole. would that explain my original symptoms?

Original post


thanks for your help!
neil

[kucharskimb]

just unscrew the 4 nuts holding the tranny to the engine and pull the tranny away. this will leave the clutch assembly attached to the flywheel and engine. once you get the tranny out of the way, you can take out the 9 bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel and continue from there.

as you are pulling the tranny away, the clutch fork will start to rotate (if normal, ie not broken). that's fine, just make sure it doesn't get caught on anything. sounds like either your TOB came apart, the PP was cut through by the TOB, or the fork broke.

make sure the engine is balance by itself before you pull the tranny away, or it may rotate (read as "fall"). tranny weighs about 60 lbs... just set it to the side for the time being. careful of the clutch fork as you are setting it down.

later
matt

[neiltorda]

I have removed the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the engine, but I can only get the unit to separate about a 1/8".

The engine is resting on the dolly, and the transmission is resting on some wood blocks at the mount point at the far end.

I should just pull the two apart? how much force should it take?

So, the what is the Haynes manual talking about? I noticed that the technical article here on pelican doesn't mention it when you do the split while the transmission is still in the car....

and this should really show my ignorance: what is tob? pp is pressure plate i assume

thanks for your quick response, you guys are great!

neil

[k9handler]

it should pull away fairly easy...and the tranny does weigh over 100 lbs so watch your back if doing it solo. Is your jack stand/wood or whatever you have supporting the tranny blocking the clutch lever from rotating?

TOB is throw out bearing, the clutch fork grabs it and that is possibly what broke on you.

[randywebb]

I think the '71 does require additional steps over what Matt said.

Just wait until tomorrow when others will post.

Have a beer and go to bed.

tob = throw out bearing

[randywebb]

Bump for this guy's question...

[CRH911S]

I don't know if this will help you or not but is there some reason why the fork shaft isn't pivoting? It seems to me, as you describe it, that if the two can't separate it might be binding up on something. The only something I can think of is that the fork shaft isn't pivoting as the two are separated. This is assuming the 915 and 901 are similar in this area. I've included a picture to assist us with orientation. Good luck....



Follow the spring to the center of the picture...that is the shaft that I am referring to.

[john walker's workshop]

70 and 71 required the throwout bearing to be turned 90° to free it from the fork, before you can remove the trans. pull on the fork arm so the fork moves toward the clutch and away from the bearing. turn the bearing with a screwdriver thru the hole in the top of the bellhousing. no need to mess with the threaded holes/bolts/spacers like the book says.

[Argeo]

I know your asking about how to seperate but I thought I would just remind you to make sure you connect the fork that grabs the TOB when reinstalling. Stinks after you get bak together and you realize the thing is not connected. Gee how do I know this feeling?

Good luck.

[Jandrews]

Sounds to me like his pivot bolt broke and left the release fork laying loose in the bellhousing. If this is the case, the transmission should separate from the engine with no difficulty. If the release fork is still attached via the pivot bolt, it is just as John Walker described. Believe me on this one, JW has removed more than a couple of these '71 transmissions!


JA

[neiltorda]

Ok, home from a long day of work, and i am heading to the garage now to give it a shot.... Thanks for the input... I should be back shortly to let you know how it goes, or with more questions

[neiltorda]

ok, here goes: still no luck, but now I have pictures!

this is the release fork pushed up into the tranny


and here it is again when i don't apply pressure to it

It doesn't seem to be attached to anything. so, I can't use it to apply pressure to anything.

this diagram is from my manual (i will delete it if this violates copyright)
is the lever supposed to be moving towards or away from the engine (which in this pic is the bottom i think)

any other ideas?

[neiltorda]

ok, I feel dumb

got it apart, after i posted that last bit, i reread what had been written above and realized i had missed the post about

so, here is what i have:

this piece was sitting in the bottom of the transmission, is this the pivot for the fork?


Here is the clutch and bearing, there appears to be a lot of thick dirt (it's dry, not wet like oil) on the bearing (2 pics)




and this is inside the tranny:


So, what did i do? did that pivot bolt break, allowing the fork to drop out, and therefore the clutch never engages (disengages) so no power gets to the transmission?

what do i need to buy to fix it?

Thanks for all your help so far!

[john walker's workshop]

yup, it's busted. the replacement pivot ball is all metal. be sure you stack all the pieces the same as they were. fit the fork to the bearing while it's out to see how they fit together. the bearing ears are turned 90° to intersect with the fork after the trans is bolted up to the engine.

[neiltorda]

should i replace the clutch?
there is some scoring on the bearing, so i think i should replace it
anything else obvious?

neil

[randywebb]

cut a groove in the bottom of the guide tube - search on that & Grady Clay to get his other tips too (and I hope he is OK)

post a pic of the surfaces -- shine a light at 20 degrees and put the camera at 20 o too on the opposite side.

[john walker's workshop]

randy, try getting the ° sign by holding alt and keying 0176 on the right side number pad, then let go of alt. works on mine at least.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
randy, try getting the ° sign by holding alt and keying 0176 on the right side number pad, then let go of alt. works on mine at least.

Wow, you're a Porsche guru AND a computer geek.
-Chris

[john walker's workshop]

there's all sorts of fun signs you can do that way.
¼/½/¾/¿/²/³/»/¸/é/¥/¢/®/©/±/ñ.
ضععلٳي٣جٸڅڽۍۓۂٿ

[randywebb]

Thanks, John


AND an amateur beer taste evaluater too I'll bet (?)

BTW - how's the bus stop thing coming?