How to Glue 2-pieces of metal together!

[Sunroof]

Well, my shifter in my 1973.5T for the 915 has new bushings; however, I noted that the shifter (with the knob) is really in two parts. Go down about 6 inches or so from the shift knob and the shaft sets into another portion of the shifting unit. A male-female fitting. When I go thru the gears the top portion will have a tendency to move to either side.

I used JB Weld to bond them together to try to keep the top portion held tightly but no such luck. I know it can be welded but I thought I could find a two-part exposy that will do the trick before finding a welder. It would be extemely tough to take them a part without damaging the shifter housing with its miriad of springs and stuff.

Any P-heads out there suffer with the same swinging shifter?
Solutions? Suggestions? Sympathy?

Thanks
Bob
73.5T

[widebody911]

3M makes an epoxy that would work; it's used on late-model cars to bond panels to the chassis. I used it on the safari windows of my VW bus which were originally spot-welded when the spot welds failed and the window came loose.

[IROC]

I have bonded aluminum structures using a 3M epoxy called 2216. It should work equally well on steel. It's pretty good stuff. Might be worth a shot.

Mike

[SC-targa]

Most any epoxy should work if the surfaces are prepped properly. Did you rough up and then clean the surfaces with IPA?

Jerry Kroeger

[Tim Hancock]

I agree with Jerry above, you can probably clean the parts then reassemble with red or maybe wicking locktite. Locktite is often used to secure bearing races in housings in industry. If you have locktite allready, I would try it (heck if you clean it well, isocyanate.. superglue will probably work too) you have plenty of surface area in there which should provide a good bond.

No matter what glue, the surface must be clean.

[juanbenae]

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=96&ncid=96&e=3&u=/space/20050413/sc_space/newgluederivedfromclingingmussels

use some muscle. pun fully intended.

[kenikh]

Sandblast the mating surfaces then use PC-7 two part epoxy. This has never failed me.

http://www.right-tool.com/pc7epoxypaste.html

[Yellowbird RS]

try 3M Structural Adhesive 08101
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/aerospace/node_GSV3LF8TZFbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSNNJ6NQDKge/gvel_GS35BDZM6Sgl/theme_us_aerospace_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

[911pcars]

If you have to go to the trouble of thoroughly cleaning mating surfaces, you might as well remove, disassemble, clean and weld it. You won't have this problem ever again. BTW, you shouldn't lose any adjustment from just an R&R.

After aligning the two pieces, weld here as shown:


Sherwood
(other mods "while you're in there")

[Sunroof]

Thanks Fellas.
The pieces are tough to clean because access through the housing is limited, but I will try my best.

Their are several options for the apoxy selection, but your right about the welding as its the best solution, although the most expensive.

Bob

[911pcars]

"....right about the welding as its the best solution, although the most expensive"

You don't need an aircraft certified welder for this job. A Midas dealer or equivalent should do. I figure a minute or two to set up and 1 second per tack weld (two total). $5-$10 or a six-pack should do it. Leave all guesswork out of it for the welder. The less prep he has do and to think about (cleaning, alignment, etc.), the less it'll cost. BTW, when was the last time you replaced the shift lever bushing? This would be an ideal time to restore worn bushings.

Sherwood

[MBAtarga]

Bob,

I've got a small wire-feed welder that will work, but it will cost you a drive to Lawrenceville. Let me know if you're interested.

Mark