Dino oil recommendation question

[450knotOffice]

OK guys. Which oil brand do you recommend? I'm not going to use a synthetic in the engine because it's got a few small leaks and I don't want to risk creating larger leaks so I need to stick with a natural oil.

What brand and what weight for Southern California's climate?

[88-diamondblue]

Castrol GTX 20-50

[Sonic dB]

Shell Rotella T. It only comes in one weight. Works for my 86... as it runs like a top and doesnt leak a drop.

[RANDY P]

Kendall 20 50.

[aigel]

Second the Castrol 20-50. Best bang for the buck, available at Costco.

George

[movin]

Shell Rotella, may even stop your leaks. Red Line synthetic has a good no-leak reputation, but is expensive.

[eurocarrera]

Valvoline VR1 Racing Dino oil. I have been running it for the last 4 oil changes and it works great.

Check out this thread I started a while back:
The Truth about Synthetic Oil

[kepperly]

Kendal 20-50 as PER Bruce Anderson.

Keith Epperly
87 slant nose turbo look Carerra cabriolet

[Wil Ferch]

Why not do a search....

Almost ALL you need to know...with NUMERICAL CHARACTERISTICS...are found in the "oil bible" that I posted within this thread.....

Motor Oil Web site


The oil formulations change in time...this link tries to keep up to date.

Shell Rotella T does *not* come in one weight grade....Dino 30, Dino 15W-40...and synthetic 5W-40.

BTW..there are "pure" synthetics...like Mobil 1, that tend to "allow" ( let's not say "cause") leaks ( this has been my experience) ....and US law allows highly-refined "cracked" oils to be marketed as synthetics also..since the characteristics are almost the same.

I *think* Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 synthetic is one of these highly refined oils labelled as synthetic...and I firmly believe I'm getting "syn" protection without the leaks of Mobil 1. The oil bible thread shows good high temp and other characterisitcs.


-Wil

[Sonic dB]

Shell Rotella T does *not* come in one weight grade....Dino 30, Dino 15W-40...and synthetic 5W-40.

Correct, but what I meant to say was that you can only find the 15W - 40 in the stores by where I live. Also, one that you listed above is not dino.

http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t.html

[charlesbahn]

Valvoline racing 20-50 except for turbos. I now use Mobile I and my car seems to run cooler with the turbo and is using less oil. Havn't had any leak issues.

[azasadny]

Castrol GTX 20w50 with Swepco additives...

[jpahemi]

Wil:
Where do you buy Rotella?
Regards,
J.P.

[white87911]

Agip, do it and you will be fine.

[KTL]

If we're gonna go by the Motor Oil Bible, Shell Formula Shell and Exxon Superflo in 20W50 are rated better than any of the non synthetics mentioned so far, except Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20W50.

Plus the Shell and Exxon are quite cheap. Shell is typically found @ Pep Boys or WalMart. Exxon is @ K-Mart and AutoZone.

Rotella is usually @ Pep Boys and WalMart. 5W40 gets good MOB rating. 15W40 not so good.

As usual, it's a tough call...............

What do I use? Right now I have in the garage

>Valvoline 5W20- Mazda, i'll switch to Valvoline 5W20 Durablend when the time comes
>Shell Formula Shell 20W50- Laser or 911 (was on sale via coupon @ Pep Boys)
>Mobil Delvac 1300 15W40- Laser (was cheap @ Farm & Fleet)
>Mobil 1 15W50- 911 (was 1/2 price with MADD Pep Boys calendar coupons) but i'll probably use Valvoline Durablend 20W50 when the coupons run out.

Seems to me any name brand oil is gonna be okay. Other than Quaker State and Pennzoil, i'll use just about any name brand of oils in my cars. Mobil, Havoline, Valvoline, Castrol, Shell, Chevron, Exxon, Kendall,............ i've used all of these (and more) at one time or another.

[sammyg2]

Oil is oil as far as brands go. Any 20W-50 will be fine, except stay away from snake oil salesmen and anyone who recommends additives and such. If they can make your engine run cooler, restore old engines, save you gas, and reduce emissions i'll eat my hat. All they do is lighten your wallet. Royal purple, slick 50, duralube, etc those guys belong in jail, not on TV.

having said that, I use Quaker state in all my N/A engines, shell rotella (from walmart, cheep) in the turbo. I personally don't like pennsoil, but can't say why.

[450knotOffice]

Hmmm. Thanks guys. More of you responded than I thought would.

It seems that the Pennzoil I've got in my car should probably be replaced. None of you seems to like it.

[randywebb]

It's fine - any of the major brands is fine. Some test out a bit better... Just change it every 5,000 to 10,000 depending on how and where you drive.

[Wil Ferch]

If you look at the oil bible and understand the various variables...you should be able to do better than just "hit -n -miss".

Some variables indicate high temp stability....come others indicate good low flow capability...yet others indicate how much /little "burn off" you'd get...and others tell you whether you can go beyond normal change intervals.

It's all there...if you care to look...

Then find the oil that has the characterictics you like or need. As an example, for the 911, I don't care about how much longer beyond normal oil changes I can push the change interval, since the car holds 13 qts and I change the 911 oil frequently. I also don't care about low temp flow characteristics...since it's a summer car. I DO care about high temp stability. Note that some single weight mineral oil 30's through 50's can do considerably better in this regard than the highly regarded synthetics.

-Wil

[anthony]

For those that don't drive a lot of miles per year, what is the consensus on the oil change time interval for a 911? I did do a search, seems like 50% of people said they will change the oil once a year and the other 50% said every six months.