Defective Early Turn Signal Switch Exchangeability

[jluetjen]

For some time I've been annoyed by the fact that my turn signals do not cancel consistantly on the left side. I took the steering column apart today and confirmed that the issue is the mechanical action of the (no longer available) turn signal switch. There appears to be enough wear on the lower tang mechanism that it doesn't get the leverage it needs to cancel.

Looking at Pelican's web site I see that the '65-'68 and the '69 and '71 switches are NLA. The '70-'73 (???) switches are $195 ( ). I see that there are some switches for much less then that on ebay, but they're not the '69 & '71 version.

Does anyone know anything about the exchangeability of the different switches? I suspect that the '65-'68 version will work, but it appears to have chrome versus black trim -- which isn't a big deal for me. How about the '70-'73?

Any other ideas?

[304065]

John,

If you did find a chrome-handle switch that still worked, in unpitted condition, you could sell it to an SWB restorer and buy yourself a couple new switches! (Look no further than my signature for a suggestion )

Now, what about the switches.

SWB: (going counterclockwise around the diagram)

30 +12v RED
57a for parking lights (common) GREY
49a to blinker unit (common for signals) BLACK/WHITE/GREEN
49L left turn signal bulb BLACK/GREEN
49R right turn signal bulb (imagine that!) BLACK/WHITE
57R right parking lamp GREY/RED
57L left parking lamp GREY/BLACK
56 common for headlights WHITE/BLACK
56b low beam YELLOW
56a high beam WHITE

Well that was easy enough, now how about the later switch?

30 RED/WHITE
57A GREY
49A BLACK/WHITE/GREEN
49R BLACK/GREEN
49L BLACK/WHITE
57R GREY/RED
57L GREY/BLACK
56 WHITE/BLACK
56b YELLOW
56A WHITE

So, John, comparing the switches, I would say an earlier one will work.

Now, I happen to know that NLA, which is a 356 catalog, carries repro chrome switches with a rubber handle instead of plastic, I bet you could source an early one from them.

EDIT: I just checked the manual for an 84 Carrera, guess what?

(dramatic pause)

30 Re/wt
P Grey (this is the "parking" terminal")
49a bk/wt/gn
49R bk/gn
49L bk/wt
58R gr/re
58L gr/bk
56 wt/bk
56b ye
56a wt

So, I'm willing to go out on a limb here and say that the switches are the same between the first LWB and the later cars, with only the one color difference in the 30 wire from the early SWB.

Bonus: Any of youse 356 guys have a wiring diagram?

[304065]

And I am willing to bet you a Warsteiner that half of those wire designations are to conform to the German DIN spec, and are probably listed in the Bosch Automotive Handbook. Unfortunately, mine was destroyed by mold (it's a long story involving over-watering of a house plant.) Perhaps the Gentleman from San Angelo could verify?

[jluetjen]

John;
I suspect (since I haven't been able to compare) that the later switches use a different cancelling mechanism then the earlier ones. The pictures that I see on ebay don't seem to show any fingers sticking out to be engaged by the tang on the steering wheel.

[jluetjen]

For Future reference; Here are some pictures.

Here's a picture from ebay of a SWB switch:



And another...


(Note that the switch mechanism itself in the second picture seems different, or at least there's a cover over it.

A picture of the switch in my '69. No cover and the mechanism looks the same as on the first SWB picture. The connections are different though since my car has a circular connector and a bunch of loose connections like in the following picture.



Here's a picture from ebay of a switch for the following: 911 912 E 1976; 911 74'-83'; 911 84'-89'; 911 Turbo (930) 76'-77'; 911 Turbo (930) 78'-89'. In this picture -- like in the second SWB picture, the mechanism seems to be completely encased.



The biggest visible change is in the finger paddle which evolved from being a simple black paddle in the '69's (on a chromed stalk in the SWB's) to having the headlight and directional symbols on it in the later models.

[69911e]

John: I modified the wiring of (what I was told was) a 70' switch to plug into my 69' about 15 years ago(still working). I believe it involved switching a couple of the wires and placing the hazard wire into a connector. I can look under the dash to check my memory if you would like. If you have a Haynes manual available you can see the differences in the wiring diagram for the 2 model years.
Have you considered fixing you old switch? Maybe mig welding the worn part back(very short duration pulse).
I had a similar problem which turned out to be weak springs for the canceling mechanism.

[jluetjen]

Hi Ed;
I'm leaning towards just modifying the wiring as you did. I've got the factory manuals through 1972, as well as the the information that John_Cramer posted above, so it doesn't sound like a big deal and I've got the information available to do it.

As far as mig welding anything -- out of my league on that. Right now I don't have any welding equipment and only a about an hour's worth of tutored welding experience. Beside the wear seems to be more along the line of the springs being weak or else one of the tracks being worn. I noticed that the lower finger (for the left turn directional) also has some play back and forth as opposed to just up and down. I may try taking it apart after I've swapped it out.