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Should I go for Dilavar or steel studs ?
I guess I have a major problem brewing up on cylinder #2, or the studs are pulling or one is broken already, as I have some oil leaking between barrel and head...
Anyway, when the time comes, what is recommended: steel or dilavar studs ? I know dilavar is supposed to be the choice but I think I read in Wayne's book that the experienced were leaning more towards steel... Your opinion please... |
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09-16-2011, 05:20 AM
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Location: Lithia, FL
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You'll find lots of opinions over on the engine rebuilding forum, but I don't think anybody uses dilavar anymore...
Here's a set offered by our host: Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-REBKT-02N here's what I used: EBS Racing - Porsche Parts Exclusively good luck! RC
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FS 1987 930 DTAFast EFI w/Electronic Dash, 17x9x11" Lindsey Racing Fuchs, Andial 8.39 R&P, C2 Intake, SuperCup Cams, Flame Ringed Heads & Cylinders, TurboKraft Full Bay Intercooler, RearlyL8 Twin Scroll Headers, Big Bullseye Twin Scroll Turbo...SOLD 1999 Harley Davidson Custom 1250 Hardtail Bobber..SOLD 2014 BMW X6M, 2012 BMW 128i, 2014 GMC Sierra, 2015 Cobia 237 Center Console 300hp Yamaha |
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09-16-2011, 05:37 AM
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Neither.
Supertech
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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09-16-2011, 05:46 AM
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Supertec or Supertech ?
I suppose PP doesn't have them... Where else to look ? |
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09-16-2011, 06:05 AM
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09-16-2011, 06:09 AM
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
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993TT Dilavars.
If Steve Weiner recommends, you are safe. They've worked fine for at least 5 years in my >500 hp C3.2. They've also been through 2 rebuilds. |
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09-16-2011, 06:16 AM
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Don't assume you need new studs. I've had leaks before from the head seam with no broken studs. Pull the valve covers and check the torque of the headstud nuts. If they are tight or will torque up, drive the car and don't worry. Some oil seepage here is common. You have steel studs already (unless your motor has had the studs replaced).
-Andy
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09-16-2011, 08:44 PM
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That would be nice! I'll check.
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09-16-2011, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
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09-19-2011, 01:26 AM
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Banned
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Quote:
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09-19-2011, 02:06 AM
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for an ordinary street engine, there is no need to rush out and drop big dollars on fancy studs. Just replace the row of Dilivars with factory steel studs and put it back together.
Many have done this and no issues ever again. |
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09-19-2011, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
__________________
FS 1987 930 DTAFast EFI w/Electronic Dash, 17x9x11" Lindsey Racing Fuchs, Andial 8.39 R&P, C2 Intake, SuperCup Cams, Flame Ringed Heads & Cylinders, TurboKraft Full Bay Intercooler, RearlyL8 Twin Scroll Headers, Big Bullseye Twin Scroll Turbo...SOLD 1999 Harley Davidson Custom 1250 Hardtail Bobber..SOLD 2014 BMW X6M, 2012 BMW 128i, 2014 GMC Sierra, 2015 Cobia 237 Center Console 300hp Yamaha |
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09-19-2011, 05:05 AM
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Yes, removing the valve covers (intake and exhaust) will give you access to all the stud nuts. Beware oil will come out the bottom covers if you don't drain the oil first. You can also jack one side way up and the oil will flow to the other side so you can remove the "uphill" valve cover. The nuts are 10mm allen head (I think 10mm). Just give them a tweek of about 20ft/lbs. If they are there at all the stud is not broken. If they don't turn easily they are tight.
If they keep turning and don't tighten, then you have studs that have pulled out from the magnesium case. -Andy
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09-19-2011, 07:21 PM
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Yep, naively i wasn't expecting that much oil and i didn't drain it before... So i left it overnight to slowly drain.
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09-19-2011, 11:01 PM
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big mess?!
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09-20-2011, 01:53 PM
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'74 has a mag case, thus even if you could remove the studs w/o yanking the cam box, heads and cylinders, it's recommended to install case savers or equivalent no matter what choice of head stud material, and this isn't possible unless those parts are removed.
If you neglect the case threads, you'd still have to remove at least the cam box and probably the heads to access the existing head studs. Or maybe my tech skills have fallen behind the times. I rebuilt my 2.7 with 24 Dilavar studs about 13 years ago and so far, so good (gotta find some convenient wood to knock). Sherwood |
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09-20-2011, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Without much thinking, I assumed most / almost of the oil would be in the tank... Anyway, it was time for an oil change ! |
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09-21-2011, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Let's see how it turns out. Could it be that they came a bit loose over time, or maybe the threads are starting to give ? |
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09-23-2011, 01:11 AM
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