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Why choose one type of torque wrench over another?
I need to buy a torque wrench and I don't know which one of these I should choose?
Split beam ![]() or dial type ![]() I know the dial type is slightly more accurate, but other than that, why buy one over the other?
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Howard 2003 996tt 1997 911 Coupe Artic Silver (sold) 1988 Black 911 Coupe (gone but not forgetten) |
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IMHO, the clicker type is for more rugged use and it can also get into tighter areas. Also more versatile as can feel and hear the click, so you don't need to see the dial.
If everything you're torquing is on the bench and/or easy to reach, the fancy dial ones are great. ![]() |
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I heard the clickers had to be reset to zero after click?
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Howard 2003 996tt 1997 911 Coupe Artic Silver (sold) 1988 Black 911 Coupe (gone but not forgetten) |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
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To maintain the accuracy you should always store a clicker type at the zero setting. It's easier for me to crank on the clicker style rather than looking at a dial, especially in the higher torque ranges.
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Quote:
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Black Rock, CT
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According to the Precision site, theirs does not require a resting setting of zero. But they also state the accuracy is 4% from 20% of full load to full load.
Their dial type is twice as accurate. For all the engine bolts, I would use nothing but the dial type. For wheels a clicker is easy.
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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT. '73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B] |
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I agree that the dial model has the edge on overall accuracy. However, if I could only afford one wrench, it would be the clicker because rarely am I using it on an engine stand or bench.
Tightening up the suspension piece can be done with a simple click, or try a mirror and flashlight and a lot of strain to see that little dial gauge. ![]() Accuracy within 4% means 8lbs at 200 ft/lbs and that's the advertised limits. Most likely it will perform about as well as the dial model. |
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