Buying an 87 911 Coupe, what to look for?

[moazam]

I'm looking to buy a 1987 911 Coupe (red!) tomorrow and would like to know what to watch out for. A couple of questions,

Do 87 911s have valve guide problems as some of the older models did?

If the car has an oil leak, is that a deal breaker?

The car has a G50 transmission, should the clutch feel lighter than a 915? What if it's a relatively heavy clutch, is that a sign that it needs a new clutch?

This car seems to be US spec height, how much would it cost to get it lowered to Euro specs or even a little lower?

Is there anything else I should look for?

The PPI will probably happen afterwards, maybe Monday.

[wholberg]

Originally posted by moazam
I'm looking to buy a 1987 911 Coupe (red!) tomorrow and would like to know what to watch out for. A couple of questions,

Do 87 911s have valve guide problems as some of the older models did? -- I have heard yes, and no. I think it depends upon the car. My 87 has a puff of blue smoke on startup, but none during running and oil consuption is not excessive (90K miles).

If the car has an oil leak, is that a deal breaker? -- Most 911's have an oil leak. It depends on how bad it is.

The car has a G50 transmission, should the clutch feel lighter than a 915? What if it's a relatively heavy clutch, is that a sign that it needs a new clutch? --My car has a new clutch and it's pretty stiff.

This car seems to be US spec height, how much would it cost to get it lowered to Euro specs or even a little lower? -- I took mine in for alignment and the shop changed the height for no charge.

Is there anything else I should look for?

The PPI will probably happen afterwards, maybe Monday.

[Milu]

The 87 has the same valveguide issues. Doesn't seem to affect all cars though.

I don't think the oil leak is a deal breaker, doesn't seem worse than other 911s. They can be expensive to have fixed though. Can always keep topping up the oil

Clutch getting heavy is a sign that it's on it way out. One of mine has been getting very heavy with a higher pedal for the last 60'000 miles. It's ok, the leg muscles build up in relation to the clutch and clutch control improves as well. The other has a newish clutch which seems light as a feather to me.

Adjusting the ride height is a routine check and adjust service item.

Just check the usual used car stuff. A good ppi and analysis of the service history will give you the info you need.

[Quicksilver]

On the clutch you want to make sure it doesn't bind or stiffen part way through its travel. That is a sign of a release fork pivot problem.

Basically I make sure I go through every control in the car one by one and see if they are all working. I check for even tire wear and feel for wheel bearing and steering linkage slop. Check the gaps of all the body panels and look for differences in paint including in the door jams and under the front and rear lids. Make sure the wheels are centered the same on the left and right sides. Go drive it hard enough that you can feel if it drives evenly right and left. Then...

Get a CARFAX and take it for a PPI. Get a compression test and leakdown. Measuring the control points under the car is a bonus.


These are wonderful cars. If you don't over-rev and shift it correctly, they are basically bomb proof. You only need to feed them oil, tires and brakes.

[molsen]

'87 ia a great year. If it's using a qt/500 m or so then some top end

work is in the future (some had the guide problem & some didn't). Oil

leaks aren't necessarily bad, most are easy diy fixes


The G50 is a fine trans. & shifts better (smoother; esp. 1st & 2nd) You

can acceerate hard from 2nd to 3rd & see if the clutch slips. These

transmissions are pretty good but a clutch job is some $$.


If I remember the cost should be around $3-400 for lowering; don't

remember if that was w/ alignment.


Take it for a PPI to someone you trust. Yoou had nice '86 carrera so you

know what it should drive like. Good Luck on you purchase


Hey Quicksilver, don't the '87 have a rev limiter built into the dme relay?

[KTL]

The clutch pedal is typically heavier than a 915. But not heavy where it should require a push from your leg that feels like you're making a strong effort to push the pedal. The G50 trans. is kinda noisy. So keep that in mind

Heavy clutch is not a good thing in a hyd. actuated clutch. Could be a few things.


-Worn throw-out bearing and/or guide tube. Recently had this on my Eclipse and the sliding surface of the guide tube and bearing were VERY scored.

-Pressure plate springs wearing out. Not likely though.

-Dried out pivot shaft bearings in the release fork assembly, like Quicksilver said. If the binding gets to be too much, this condition will eventually break either the release fork or the slave cylinder


Clutch kit is easily twice the cost of a 915 kit (and MUCH heavier too) If you need a clutch job, save yourself some $ and get a kit that includes a spring disc instead of a rubber disc.


There's really not much to look for on a '87 that differs from the other cars. Engine, suspension, brakes, body are the same as all the rest of the Carreras. BTW, rev limiter is programmed into the DME EPROM chip code.

Lowering + alignment shouldn't cost you much more than $200-$300? I seem to recall that this job is much cheaper for the California guys than elsewhere in the US.

[moazam]

Originally posted by KTL
The clutch pedal is typically heavier than a 915. But not heavy where it should require a push from your leg that feels like you're making a strong effort to push the pedal. The G50 trans. is kinda noisy. So keep that in mind

I test drove the car today and found that the clutch is about normal. It took me about 2 shifts to get used to weight. You are right though, the G50 seems to be a little noisier. I hear a very slight 'chatter' while in 1st/2nd sometimes during stops/lights.

I'll know much more on Tuesday or Wednesday when I have my local shop look at the whole car. It's a 1 owner, lady owned, guards red 1987 Carrera with 127k miles on it and original paint. The car has full records, no rebuilds ever done. The Fuchs are 16" and dull black, but I think I'll be replacing them with 17" Mille Miglias or Turbo Twists. No spoiler front or back. It has electronic sport seats and the interior is immaculate.

What is the going price for something like this nowadays?

[Steve87-911]

Originally posted by moazam
...I hear a very slight 'chatter' while in 1st/2nd sometimes during stops/lights...
What is the going price for something like this nowadays?

87, ya baby!
I never hear any chatter tho. The g50 might give a little extra Kitchenaid mixer sound, but very smooth, no chatter. My clutch is light, but pretty new. If yours is the original clutch, I'd expect it to be replaced asap.

Price? In great condition with those miles with no tranny/clutch/engine issues, I'd say 17-19k around here. Your ppi should tell you about the tranny, clutch, etc though.
Hope it works out for you. I'll never get tired of letting her rip.

[tubwreck]

What to look for when test driving '87 Carrera:

1. Open all windows

2. Get to 2500 RPM in 2nd

3. Floor accelerator

4. Take revs to 6000

5. Shift to 3rd

6. Repeat

Look for BIG SMILE in rear view mirror.

Hope this helps!

[Quicksilver]

Originally posted by molsen
. . .
Hey Quicksilver, don't the '87 have a rev limiter built into the dme relay?

The Motronic has a rev limiter built into the chip. I think it is set a 6800. I would really be certain that I didn't take it past the 6250 redline though.

The rods in the 3.2s are the real rev limiter. If it stretches one of those stupid bleeping 'stretch to torque' rod bolts then the engine will fail somewhere down the line. It may take it a another year for it to spin a bearing but it is just waiting to happen.

If it has real rod bolts then go spank the thing. (I digress...)

The real point of this is that Porsche is the only street car that can be driven as hard as you can drive it and as long as you don't over rev and if you shift it correctly, it will just keep going, and going, and going, . . .