Power Window Delete
 

I want to do away with the power windows in my SC and go to manual. Is it as simple as just changing over to manual regulators with cranks?
How hard is it to get the power regulators out of the door? Is there a hole big enough to remove them?

Well...ya gotta remove the door panels...lots of screws. Do you have a Bentley manual?

Mike, No I do not have the Bentley Manual. I realize I have to take the door panels off. I was just wondering if there were design deifferences in the doors that had PW versus manual. I don't want to have to cut the interior door to remove the power window motors.

AFIK...you don't. "I" would call Parts Heaven or dC Automotive and see if the have complete doors with cranks and ask them to take a pic of the guts. Then pull the panel and compare.

You may find that buying two used doors with crank assemblies is the easiest. Not to expensive last I heard.

Thanks Mike. I'll check into it.

How much weight can one safe by removing the power windows?

Sameer, not sure if that was a directed or rhetorical question. I am not doing it for wieght purposes (that's what I tell myself), I am doing it to eliminate the electrical part. I popped a relay, and it pi**ed me off enough to change them out. I know, $20 relay or $100 change over. I figure it will be one less thing to break.

I did the same thing for the same reason. The less electrical, the better.

David

David, what do you want for your power window set-up?

Sorry Tim, all gone.

If you already have manual, why would you do to power?

David

I've had MANY more problems with things breaking on manuals, than with electric.

Those damn window crank handles are generally POS. (always breaking) Though, I have no experience with OE 911 cranks. Maybe, if you get an OE crank it will last a while.

. . maybe even half as long as a power motor.:cool:

Eliminates wires to chase though.

My power windows were so unpredictable, I am hoping this will relieve any more window stuck down surprises. Replacement parts aren't cheap either.

I guess some would say weight is a plus too

We'll see.

David

Addendum: Pelican has the rollers .. .about 30 bucks. (replaceable knobs; thats a plus. . .. they are likely pretty stout.)

Let us know how it goes.

well, how much weight are you removing when you make such a change?

'74-'79 & '80-'89 regulators and window steel mounting channel are different. The '80-'89 window lifters/regulators were up-graded a few times requiring different mounting hole positions. New regulators are about $150ea. '74-'79 may have the soft metal regulator pivot pins that can be up-graded to a harder pivot.

I replaced my driver side manual regulator and "upgraded" to the 80-89 style. Aside from the hassle of getting the regulator in and out the small opening in the door it wasn't too bad. I did have to drill a new hole in order to mount the newer part, but it was pretty straightforward.

Funny, I bought all the old style pieces to go from manual to power on my 78. Most of it looks like crap but thats another story. I'm going to need to replace the door panels if and when I do the conversion to power which will mean I will have to make a commitment and live with it. I think the only thing that has stopped me from moving forward is questioning how reliable the power windows have been for you guys. My car is a garage queen. I suspect that cars that live outside might have more issues with the power windows failing. So, what is the weak link here? The hardware, the harness -relay-fuse, the switches or motors? I have to admit my old cranks have served me well for 27 years.

Ron,
I cannot attest to any specific weak link in the power window system. I am just more confortable with the manual option myself. I tried to convince mysefl otherwise, heck, I just bought three brand new switches from our host. I am not good at eletcrical, therefore, I just want to go back to old technolgy that I can work on. (same thign with the upcoming CIS delete)

Thank you all for your input and comments. That is why this board is so great. I will look for the parts I need. If anyone needs any electric window parts. let me know.

only imo

- basically the new power window wiring sucks. I'd run in-door relays
- old soft regulator pivots
- old power window sw's do toast interior sw contacts
- old window frame mouldings degrades
- improper window frame alignment tensioning the glass up&down movement.

Island mentioned the manual crank handles being a weak link. There was a thread a long way back about many various strong crank handles available that will fit.

Also, the switches can go bad, and not "return to center" over time. I had to replace a driver-side motor in my `86 (year they changed BTW) due to that. Also, if you are thinking about the conversion, remember to factor in new door panels (or at least having your existing ones re-covered) if you want it to look right.

Thanks Eric,
Already have the new door panels. Just need to get some manual parts.

who is going to perform the public service of weighing & posting the results??

I thought about doing this same thing. I have had problems with the switch sticking. I also have had to replace the weatherstrip on the outside and the door latch connector. The only advantage to electric windows is being able to lower the passenger side window without stretching across the car.

I was told that this is very expensive to switch. I guess used parts would help but still over $100 per side. Tell me how it turns out. I think you could save about 5-6 lbs per side.

I'll weigh the regulators when I take them out guys so you know.

thanks for the input..now I'm really wondering if I want to upgrade at all.

power locks is also an option as in "while you're in there" :p

We are gonna need some pics here :) This is another mod on my list of things to do....

Jeff

Did anyone end up coming up with an overall power to manual conversion solution?

Thanks
Paul

I've got manual windows with the original crank handles. Never had a problem and I wouldn't dream of going to power.

Hm. Seems like it'd be easier to rewire it with standard components.

Standard automotive relays are $2 and last forever. Standard two-position momentary rocker switches are $1 and last forever.

A pair discretely placed in the dash panel and you'd never have to miss an opportunity to yell at someone on the passenger side...

Just realized this was a 12-year-old thread brought to life.

I was thrilled when i met my new to me 75S last fall & it having both manny windows & a factory sunroof delete. I have noticed the cranks that appear to have come with what look to be relatively new RS door panels are weak as hell. worst thing is the driver side crank rubbed on the otherwise pristine panel and has scuffed the crap out of the vinyl cover in an 7" circle. since i only drove the car home before dropping & rebuilding the motor window cranks are way down on my list....

i considered the backdate on my SC with power windows and it seemed expensive for minor gain.

Long time ago. I don't remember it being that difficult. Other than the usual, getting the regulator out of the door.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/93087-delete-power-windows.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/320492-wtb-pair-manual-window-regulators.html

I just did this in under 3 hours, removed all wiring also uncut, all the way back to the fuse box. Installed manual tracks, and obviously you will need new door panels as you will have different holes for crank vs switches.

Any diy pics on the conversion?

Is the weight saving worth it? Anyone know the weight saving going from electric to manual?

I thought about doing this but when buckled into my Recaro Pole Positions I can't reach the passenger side door so Manual seems like a bad idea in my non-AC hotrod that I usually drive alone in.

Nobody seems to have an exact number, but we're talking about less than ten pounds between the axles at ass-height.

Just 10 lbs seems hardly worth the effort for me.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/811080-1984-cabrio-long-term-project-3.html

Did it a while ago, see post #50. Did it more for simplification and reliability purposes.