Picked up a RUF polyurethane front valence-how to refurb?

[JonT]

I'm looking for some help refinishing and painting a RUF front valence. Its painted and has some scratches and needs to be cleaned up and painted. Can someone tell me which grits I should start with as far as sanding and bringing up to painting condition? Does it then need a primer? Special flexible paint? I haven't got a clue. Thanks

[Dennis Kalma]

Painting it is not too hard, basically take down the existing finish with something like 180 grit just to take the gloss off, then go to about 320 and finish sand the whole thing. If there are crooks and nannies there then use a Scotchbrite red to get at them.

in terms of painting, yes, I would assume that you need to use flexible products. I typically use Sikkens paints, but I think all the good brands have a flex agent that you add to the conventional paints and primers to make them work. Easiest is to go to your local paint shop and ask them for all the stuff you need.

I just did my son's VW rear valance, required sanding, then painted with base coat and the clear coat with flex agent added. I was surprised the base could handle polyurethane without agent, but it appears to be fine. In terms of application, it is just like painting on steel.

Sealing the old finish is always a bit of a question. To be totally safe, you should use a sealer as prep (with flex added I suppose) and then put on the colour and clear as required. Again your paint supply shop are the best guys to advise you.

Just generally, remember about 95% of the finish is in the preparation. Remember to use a medium soft block as much as possible so that the surface is flat, keep it all clean and evenly sanded.....and always start with a good cleaning, I use the Sikkens M600 cleaner (takes of silicone apparently) after a really good washing...main reason is to ensure that there is no grit there to make scratches when you sand, plus silicone is a very bad thing for paint adhesion.

Not hard, just time consuming....

Dennis

[david.avery]

I refinished the one I got from Scooter92, which needed a little surface help. Remember that any areas you sand down to the bare poly will need "adhesion promoter" sprayed on it. I took my time, and really made sure I had the entire surface very rough with 320 grit paper. Then, make sure you use good paint prep, used prepsol to clean it. Clean it, clean it, then clean it some more. I had tons of wax and junk coming off even after my 3rd or 4th wash.

I used good chromabase paint that a good auto parts store can mix and put in rattle cans. I put down 3 wet coats, then 5 thin coats of clear (get a good dual cartridge resperator)

Once the paint dried, I buffed it out with some good 3m compound by hand, but didn't think it was smooth enough, so I did the wetsand with 1500 then 2000 trick... Then compound, then 3m hand glaze. Looks great

[JasonAndreas]

Originally posted by david.avery
I used good chromabase paint that a good auto parts store can mix and put in rattle cans.

Do you have any names of "good auto parts store" in your area of CT? I've asked paint shops, body shops and auto shops in my area and nobody has a clue.

Thanks!

[david.avery]

Hi Jason

Yep, Page & Warner Auto Parts Inc.

(860) 347-4647

They won't ups though, they're in middletown CT about 20 minutes south of Hartford.

[JasonAndreas]

thanks!