Penetrating oil effectivness

[Derek911]

I found this surfing the web. I have no affiliation with the testing, I just found it interesting. Since we live in a world of rusted nuts and bolts and would basically do anything to make things easier or avoid broken studs, here is the info.

Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.

[Derek911]

Another thing to add... I usually don't buy anything until I read reviews of the product from Amazon.com. I find the reviews the best guide to how well a product works or is. I have never even heard of Kano Kroil, so I looked it up on Amazon and the reviews are very good. Just more food for thought. I have to try it.

[82 SC]

I wonder how Wurth Rost Off is compared to these? Seems pretty good to me. Thanks for posting this as I think I will make a batch of ATF-mix when all my other stuff runs out

[Chuck.H]

I'll try the ATF mix on my next challenge. One to add as a last resort:

acetylene torch ................ 0 pounds

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 384k miles

[Bill Jennings]

I heard about ATF & Acetone in here a couple of years ago and thought I would try it back then.

I am still using this method because it really works.

I just mix it up as I need it as the acetone evaporates quickly.

You can store it mixed in an airtight container but fresh seems best.

Just my 2c.

Cheers

Bill

[Tidybuoy]

+1 on ARF/Acetone

About a year ago, I removed my fuel distributor while doing some other projects on the car. I made the mistake of letting it sit on a shelf in the garage for 3 months and the piston froze up. It was in a Ziploc bag but I should have oiled it first. Instead, I had cleaned it with carb cleaner then let it sit for months.

I tried soaking in various penetrating oils for weeks but the piston would not budge. I even tried to move the piston with various tools but it was frozen solid.

I read about the ATF/Acetone on this board and decided to try it. I applied to the piston and within 15 seconds the piston fell out. It was so fast that it almost hit the floor but I caught it. It literally was a miracle and that is what I will use forever!

[TheSt|G]

I'm surprised WD40 did that much.

[Miguel Antonett]

I am very familiar with the Kano Kroil and it works the best, thus far, for me... and i'm talking exhaust studs, heads, and working on the 356 suspension - which once in a while you get to places where nobody's been in 50 years... HOWEVER, never try this mix BUT I will and feedback you guys.

[cashman]

This same report has been posted several times over the years. I know because I just bought some Kroil and read all the threads doing my research .
General summary:
Kroil is the best. Mixed reviews on the ATF/Acetone. Some stated Liquid Wrench was good but that was pretty much disputed by a lot of people.

I just received my Kroil and haven't had any need to try it. I did try the ATF/Acetone mix in the past and didn't notice anything miraculous.

This is what I bought for those interested:
Special Deal on Kroil

[SCadaddle]

I remember it was more than a year ago when I came across this "info". For the past several years my Porsche and VW friends have been using Kroil. So one night with my VW friends we mixed up a batch of the magical acetone/transmission fluid and tried it on some VW heat exchanger to head nuts. Sprayed one side with Kroil, the other with the "magic concoction". An hour later in walks Bill the machinist. He gets handed a wrench in a "blind force test" and clearly, Kroil was the winner. IMHO either that "info" is a bunch of junk that needs to find a home on Snopes or there are a lot of people who have never used Kroil.

[82 SC]

seems this has been around awhile.
Penetrating Oil Test -

[Uwon]

I use a 50/50 mix is AFT and rubbing alcohol, the later being cheaper than acetone. Works for me. You still have to be careful with nearby painted surfaces
Johan

[kodioneill]

I tried the ATF acetone mix Man it stinks something awful. I thought the standard stuff worked just as well.

[azhodge]

I am going to mix up some of the atf-acetone. trying to figure out what to store it in that 1) won't let the acetone evaporate. and 2) will allow me to squirt it on the area. 3) acetone won't melt it... any suggestions??

[911pcars]

What are you waiting for? If you recently purchased one of these products and haven't tried it yet, apply some to the exhaust nuts/studs even though you're not going to remove them. The oil will penetrate the threads and either help break up any corrosion and/or keep the threads lubed. You may thank this writer later when you remove them without breaking/bending/distorting anything. Our engines are full of dissimilar metals in intimate contact with one another.

However, some penetrating oils are better than others. FWIW, My vote is for AeroKroil. The deal in the link is good, otherwise you have to buy a case of the expensive stuff. Split the order with a friend.

Sherwood

[964TargaC2]

Where does Gibbs fall in?

[SoCalSK8r]

I swear by Kroil but haven't tried the acetone/ate mix


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[Derek911]

Goldenrod Pistol Pump Oiler - 6in., Model# 606:Amazon:Industrial & Scientific

I use this oil pump from Amazon. It is very well made, no plastic, and small enough to use and get into tight spaces. Metal flexible tip and it squirts really far. Kroil comes in a spray or pour can. I use this pump for kroil or any other oil mix. The spray is very precise and not messy. You can put down a drop or squirt it a distance.

[Dave Colangelo]

I have tried a variety of these concoctions over the years and they all work well, I generally stick to PB Blaster just out of habit and I don't have to mix it up my self. I also have never had any issues with it eating other things away.

Just a word of advice, although strong solvents may work well you need to be careful as they can sometimes damage rubber parts and exterior finish near the area you are spraying.

In the end of the day a good breaker bar or impact wrench will generally do the job. This is one of those times is often better to have the right tool on hand than to try and over use solvents instead. When all else fails some good old elbow grease is often what it takes. On an interesting note, if properly torqued most bolts on these cars should not be that hard to remove but often times PO's, bad mechanics or a mix of the two really wail on the stuff. A buddy of mine bought a 924 and we could not get the oil drain bolt off with a 4 ft. breaker bar...

Regards
Dave

[911pcars]

In some cases, a 6' pipe/handle extension is necessary. However, a skilled/experienced tech will choose the correct tool/technique depending on the task at hand. Using brute force when a more effective technique is available invites potentially unnecessary damage. Ever try brute force on exhaust fasteners that are environmentally welded to each other?

Sherwood