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JR_NYC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chicago
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Chain tensioners

What would you guys estimate it would cost to retrofit an '82 SC with Carrera chain tensioners? Anything that I should look out for? I would have the work done by an independent Porsche shop.

Old 07-20-2005, 09:50 AM
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JR

I installed my self. Kit cost approx $400.

Others in my area Phila have had the carrera tensioner upgrade done by prof and I think there costs ranged between $800 and $1100 ( total).

Hope that helps.

Earl
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:15 PM
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I updated our ’71 some years ago and it really isn’t rocket science. Kits then were lots less $$$! Local engine builders have told me the “new” old fix is small collars around the old style tensioners. I had to replace several lines on our ’82 SC four years ago, probably vibration. It seems the Carrera tensioners have started to started to fail as they age and roll up the miles. Two collars = much less dollars. You also don’t have to remove the tensioners to install.
Old 07-20-2005, 05:42 PM
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Forgot to mention that if a tentioner does go bad, the engine just runs real bad. It doesn’t self-destruct with clashing valves and pistons.
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:50 PM
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I am about to do this upgrade on my 911.

It does not seem to be difficult to do and there is an excellent article to be found on the Pelican Tech Info Center tab - see at the top of this page . Go find it because it answers a lot of questions.

However, I have two questions that are not covered in that article. Can anyone help?

The first is: do I have to drain the oil to do the job or do the chain covers come off without spilling more oil all over the garage floor than the Exxon Valdiz did?

The second question relates to the chain ramps. I see from the article that two of the ramps are visible and therefore easy to replace. What about the other four that I cannot see in the photos? Can they be replaced without removing even more engine metal?

Can anyone help?
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:53 PM
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Ray,

My engine was out when I did the upgrade, but I do not think you will get Exxon Valdez, but there will be oil.

Regardsing the chian ramps, once you see them it will be obvious. There are posts/studa that need to be taken out.

Good luck.

Earl
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Old 07-21-2005, 01:38 PM
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One one thing - I think the most inportant step is to make sure the chains do not move !!! I needed vise grips ( taped) clamps ( several sizes). Just make very sure they are secure before you take the old tensioners. If you take your time is not problem, in fact the tensioners are replced in minuites. Just take the extra time to test you vise grips / clamps - 1) that they hold and 2) they are not in your way.


Here is picture of what I did.

Good luck. - If I can do it anyone can !!!

Earl
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Old 07-21-2005, 01:55 PM
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I did it myself. It is very easy. Just don't let the chain go slack.
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Old 07-21-2005, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for the advice, guys. The upgrade has now been done.

About half a cup of oil came out of the right hand chain cover. the oil was in a depression that does not drain into the sump. None came out of the left side cover as that side drains completely into the sump.

I also found that the hidden chain slippers are bolted in place from the outside of the engine. An easy task to remove and replace after removing the engine mount bracket.

The car runs a lot quieter now - or is it my imagination (99k miles on the engine)?

Total cost of the upgrade about $200. I bought all the parts from members selling bits and pieces on this BB. The only parts that I bought new from PP were gaskets (chain cover and header/muffler) and crush washers.

The whole job took about 5 hours. No special tools required. I tied the chains with two plastic cable ties on eash side which kept the chains tight throughout the process.

Thanks again for the guidance.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:15 AM
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It seems the only trick is priming those new tensioners with oil before installing. Some say don't, some say do??
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:56 AM
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If you don't prime the tensioners you cannot tell whether they will hold pressure after engine shut down. If they lose pressure the timing chains are noisier on next startup. Not a mechanical problem but one of those little things that could drive ya nuts.
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:35 AM
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I did. Eventually they had to be clamped in a vice to get the grenade pin in.

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Old 08-02-2005, 09:40 AM
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