Paint Question: Can you put clear coat on single stage paint?

[PorscheGuy79]

I have order some single stage paint to cover my new ducktail and I was wondering, I know it doesnt require clear coat but can you put it on just incase the paint company messed up?

Also, the can says to "add flex", what is that?

Thanks in advance!

[PorscheGuy79]

Well, one of the options was to order the paint as a single stage paint, which it said does not require any clear coat. But all over the bottle there are instructions to add clear coat and nothing that designates the paint I ordered as single stage. I am just worried that missed me selecting the paint as single stage.

[greglepore]

???

Either its basecoat stage, in which case it'll spray dead flat, or its a single stage.

If its basecoat, there's a window to spray the clear on, usually 72 hrs depending on humidity and temp. You need to use a clear that is compatible with the basecoat.

Its likely a single stage preparation mixed in the can that the base would normally come in. This is from Paintscratch?

[BGCarrera32]

You need to consult the product info sheet before adding any clear coat to or on top of single stage paint. Some PPG product as well as others are unharmed by adding a clear on top, but it is entirely dependant on the paint system you are using. I would say generally you are o.k., but if you shoot clear over base coat they aren't necessarily forumlated to bond to each other, hence some time in the furture the clear can start to lift from the surface.

Flexing agent is added to paint when used on unstable substrates that can flex (like fiberglass ducktails, polypropylene bumpers, etc) These items will flex/twist/vibrate and can cause regular paint formulations to develop hairline cracks in the surface. Flex agent adds a polymer to the paint to help hold things together a little better. Ask me how I know...

[PorscheGuy79]

Originally posted by greglepore
This is from Paintscratch?

Yup.

Originally posted by BGCarrera32

Flexing agent is added to paint when used on unstable substrates that can flex (like fiberglass ducktails, polypropylene bumpers, etc) These items will flex/twist/vibrate and can cause regular paint formulations to develop hairline cracks in the surface. Flex agent adds a polymer to the paint to help hold things together a little better. Ask me how I know...

What if its in a rattle can? How do I add it?

[PorscheGuy79]

Okay, I will just ride it out.

[techweenie]

Paintscratch ships a separate clearcoat rattlecan if that's specified for the paint. but you have the option not to order the clearcoat, so you need to be sure you ordered correctly.

'Flex' should not be necessary for fiberglass, AFAIK.

[CarreraS2]

Yeah, I don't think you need a flex agent for a ducktail. Flex agents are used typically for things like plastic bumper covers on modern cars, or semi-flexible painted front spoilers.

Just spray a test spray out of your can onto a piece of scrap and see how it dries. It will be impossible to not tell.

[Zeke]

What he said. Store the can on the shelf and go down to the auto paint store and buy a pint of single or CC paint to match. They all now have the computers with the spectroanalysis.

[techweenie]

Brian, I painted interior pieces in my Boxster with Lapis Blue clearcoat from Paintscratch, and the result fooled dealership mechanics into thinking it was special order from Porsche. And I'm a terrible painter (ask KevinP73). Paintscratch does a great job on matching [recent] paints.

Faded paint or a prior mismatching respray is another matter, entirely.

[PorscheGuy79]

Originally posted by SoCal911SC
But stepping back a bit - I don't think you are going to get stellar results painting an entire rear decklid/ducktail with a rattlecan! A non-catalyzed paint from a rattlecan isn't going to be very durable (both for chipping, and for overall washing and waxing wear), it is difficult to get enough paint onto a big part like that with a rattlecan, and the atomization isn't very good. The color probably isn't going to be a good match, and the texture of the match is going to be bad, too, IMO.

Hmm you guys must have missed that Gruppe B link on my profile...

[Tim Hancock]

Matthew, spray a test scrap and keep it in case you later decide to clear, you can skuff sand the scrap and spray on the clear to see if it re-acts poorly. Most thoroughly cured single stage AUTO paints can be cleared after FULL cure by scuff sanding to provide a surface for the clear to adhere to. Many Auto paints can also be cleared during a specified time period during the cure, but you would have to consult the data sheets to find out exactly what will work with the various systems.

Your rattle can paint may not like Auto clears being applied to it, but it should be easy enough to test before committing.

By the way, I have found that keeping a rattle can warm in a coffee can of hot water, helps it atomize a little better to lay down a smoother finish.

[PorscheGuy79]

Originally posted by Tim Hancock

By the way, I have found that keeping a rattle can warm in a coffee can of hot water, helps it atomize a little better to lay down a smoother finish.

Thanks Tim I will try that.

I plan on testing it first, PaintScratch gives you a test sheet for that.

[PorscheGuy79]

Originally posted by SoCal911SC
Point well taken! Spray away!

Sorry to be blunt, shes a good old fashion track car that I happen to drive every day. The paint is in good shape so I hope the matching will go well. But on top of all that im trying to keep the cost on this as low as possible.

[PorscheGuy79]

Originally posted by SoCal911SC
If you have a track car, and are a DIY type guy, you may want to consider buying a compressor and a paint gun.

Then you can spray catalyzed/hardened paints, which are really durable.

It's fun and not too hard to learn. It would come in handy for redoing chipped up valances, hoods, etc. on your track car.

Trust me I got a list of things I need thats a mile long, an air compressor is WAY near the top, right up there with air and food.

[Rot 911]

Matt, how much of the tail are you trying to paint? If just a small area, then have at it. If you are trying to paint the whole tail, one can will not be enough. The only way to get a good paint job using spray cans on a large area is to get on plenty of layers and then lots of wet sanding to smooth it all out.

[RickM]

There have been ducks that have been spray can painted and they came out quite well. Must be tough though...comparitively speaking.

If a flex agent is required then the manufacturer/packager adds it in for you.

As mentioned, you must use the clear that they sell alon with the base.

Tower Paint spray can tips/nozzles are absolutely superior to the Paint Scratch tips. (Unless they've changed in the last 10-12 months)

[Kurt B]

Actually, the base coat in two stage doesn't use hardener. It's the clearcoat that has all of the hardener (from my experience)--so it doesn't matter if you use a rattle can for your base coat--> just go to the paint store and get some limco (or whatever the name is) hardcore clear. Stuff dries hard as a rock.

If you didn't get catalyst with your paint, it's not single stage. The single stage is simply the base and clear mixed and thus requires hardener. I verified this by using, in a crunch, hardener for the clearcoat with my single stage (Nason), and it worked just fine.

Yes, you can clearcoat single stage, but keep in mind, your ducktail will be a little glossier and a little darker than the single stage areas depending on how many coats you lay.

In fact, my ducktail was sprayed w/ single stage and also clear coat as I was experiment. I just left it that way. It's a little different at some angles, but definitely not noticeable.

[PorscheGuy79]

Well I talked to paint scratch and it is Single Stage and flex isnt necessary because its hard fiberglass. I will give you all an update on the paint process. I am going to do a few coats of it with lots of sanding so I hope it will come out the best I can. Worsecase I can have one of the guys respray the thing at a later date.