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Adjusting solid tensioners
Hi all-
I've read all the info on why I shouldn't be running solid mechanical tensioners on the street, but that is what I have for now. An upgrade is in my future, but for now I'd love some advice on how to adjust them (cold). When I checked them last, one was very tight and one was quite loose. I tightened up the loose one but have no idea how to tell how tight or loose they should actually be. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks for any advice.
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Steve B. 1971 T 2.2 w/Zeniths Gruppe B member 171 Mid 9 Web Site Guy |
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I don't think there is a definitive answer to this. I would just tighten them so that there is no slack but only just enough tension to take the slack out. Just push up and down on the chain to measure the slack.
-Andy
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Andy-
That does seem to be the question... How tight is tight enough but not too tight? Is there such a thing as too tight? I'm not sure as the engine temp goes up, if the chain gets looser or tighter either.
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Steve B. 1971 T 2.2 w/Zeniths Gruppe B member 171 Mid 9 Web Site Guy |
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I believe the chains get tighter. Better wait and see what some others say before buttoning the covers back up. The only real good reason I have heard not to run solid tensioners is if you don't want to adjust them every time you adjust your valves (assuming you're on a regular schedule, not a valve adjust every 5000 miles).
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I've looked a few times for an answer to this question and it seems like no one wants to commit.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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From the picture of the left side the chain seems to not be significantly stretched. From my experience with chains and sprockets the rule is snug not tight. Tight will only wear the chain, resulting in premature "stretch". That is wear on the bearing surfaces where each link is joined.
Worn sprockets will also prematurely wear (stretch) the chain by over stressing individual links. New sprockets on new chain distribute the load across each link as the chain wraps around the sprocket. Beyond your question it is poor practice to use worn chain or sprockets. Bottom line, snug.
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DOUG '76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's. '85 911 Carrera, stock, just painted, Orient Red |
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I think Zeke is right -- the chains tighten as the engine warms up. The cylinders lengthen with heat (remember when dilavar studs were wonderful 'cuz they had the same thermal expansion characteristics as the cylinders?) This moves the cams farther away from the engine centerline. I have not seen anyone put a number on this expansion, but it is touted as the need for chain tensioners that can handle this variable dimension.
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