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Question NEED OPINION: 1966 911 worth??

NEED OPINION: 1966 911 worth??

I have a 1966 911 Coupe that's been sitting in a weather proof residential attached California garage since 1987. (heavy spider webs surrounding it . . .) The last time it was run was 1985. The engine and trans has been removed and it is in the same garage as the car. Before dropping Engine, it ran but removed due to some bottom end knock. Approx. mileage less than 100k mi. (as I recall).

I purchased and drove this car in 1972.

California car, Body complete no damage or rust (color: [yellow] aka Helgelb, sp?) .

Original Tan Interior complete (front seats re-upholstered in '73) and NO rips. Front seats have original headrests with adjustable thumb screws. Door panels/pockets in good condition. Dash has no rips/cracks.

(NO Sunroof) Headliner is in fair condition with one small hole.

Original 2.0L motor with Solex carbs w/2 mechanical fuel pumps and 1 electric fuel pump.

Original Eberspacher gas heater (in smuggler's box)

All gauges are original. Original wood dash trim.

Blaupunkt radio

4 original -6"x 15" Fuchs alloys/hubcaps (these are the rare deep 6's)

Fuchs alloy spare tire

original Jack w/lug wrench (no tool kit)

License plate is the early original "black" California plate (later years came with the blue and now the white reflective plate).


I'm going to put this up for sale and need to know what the fair $$ amount is, and need help.

Thanks to all,
Hz


Last edited by hifeverz; 07-19-2005 at 01:14 PM..
Old 07-19-2005, 01:11 PM
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4-5k depending
Old 07-19-2005, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by discovery2
4-5k depending
Discovery2's post is asinine.

Post this question on the Early 911 board with pics and we'll help you figure it out. I'll guarantee that $4 - $5K is low, low, low, especially if you reinstall the drivetrain. If you really want to sell it for that price, I'll buy it now.

Post here:
http://d240157.u39.zeonhost.com/forum/index.php?
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Last edited by kenikh; 07-19-2005 at 02:28 PM..
Old 07-19-2005, 02:24 PM
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HZ,

What is the VIN number? It's a '66 from before they switched over to Webers formally in February 1966. Should be like 303XXX or 304XXX.

Anyway, the range for a car like this goes from around $5000 for a rusty roller to $25,000 for a concours queen. "Special" examples like a prototype, or the early '65's, can command stratospheric prices, but those don't trade every day.

A few more comments. The color is light yellow, "Hell Gelb." "Hell" means light as in "Hell Pilsner," poured with the perfect crowned head, just the right temperature. . . wait a minute, I'm supposed to be talking about cars here, sorry.

Please don't take my next comment the wrong way, you may have a very special car here, but SOME rust is probably likely. The early cars had the exhaust pipe for the Webasto heater (not an Eberspacher, those were used on VW's) coming out of the floor of the smuggler's box, which is a great place for water to enter. Anyway, depending on the extent of any rust, which may or may not be visible (another classic spot is on the panel that the front fenders bolt to, you can't see it unless the fender is removed), that's a big determinant of whether the car will go over about the $10,000 mark.

The 15x6's are rare and expensive, but they aren't original. The fuchs didn't come out until 1967 on the "S" and were 4.5" wide. Having said that, yours are definitely worth a lot in the current market. If they are 4.5's, they are worth even more, something on the order of $2k. The spare, if also a deep fuchs, would be similarly valued. On the back of the wheel, there's often a rubber-stamped date in INK. This adds tremendously to the originality, and thus the value, of the early Fuchs wheels. (The originals were steel, either chrome or painted).

Blaupunkt radio, is it in English (AM, FM) or German (L, M, K, U)-- the US Blaupunkts command a little more.

The engine knock is problematic, it can cost on the order of $10,000 to correctly rebuild an early engine, depending on the extent of wear. My '66, #304065, leaks down about 30% past the rings, mostly due to the fact that the cylinders and pistons are just worn out after 40 years. Having said that, if the engine is all original and never suffered a catastrophic failure, it's a plus for the buyer, particularly if the engine number matches.

Anyway, that's a long-winded buildup to saying that a rust-free car in original condition needing an engine rebuild and little else to be perfect, a time-warp machine, is probably worth on the order of $10k to the right buyer. That assumes, of course, that the car passes an extensive inspection, the rust picture is as described, all the original parts are there, and it's merely a question of having the engine rebuilt to get the car in working condition.

I paid a little less than that for mine, but I knew about the engine problems and I knew about some rust-perfs. Mine's also black, original color Irischgruen, so I knew a repaint would be necessary.

Would you be so kind as to post some digital pictures of the car? That would be helpful in pointing out the details to you, and would be nice to have them for my restoration archive.

Anyway, feel free to post more details and questions and I'll answer them the best I can. I am NOT a professional appraiser and you should NOT rely on my advice alone-- consult a pro if you want an answer you can bank on, I'm just telling you what I would consider reasonable if I were interested.
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Last edited by 304065; 05-29-2007 at 08:23 AM..
Old 07-19-2005, 02:59 PM
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asinine? HA!

Lets see here....sounds like the motor is pretty sick if the tick is in the bottom end and the car is basically in peices. 4-5K is a baseline, if the body is very rust free and really that nice it will sell for more without pictures a true estimate is difficult. I cant count how many cars I have gone to see with simmilar descriptions and two things seem to be a trend...they end up selling for somewhere between 4-6k and there is always some rust hiding in there somewhere.
Old 07-19-2005, 03:05 PM
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The original black plate would be valuable, except it won't stay with the car if it hasn't been renewed or at least kept on a non-op.

I have to agree with discovery2 on the pricing estimate. Putting the engine right will be $5K or so; replacing all the rubber seals and fuel and brake lines will run into a few bucks... then there's body restoration... finding where the rust is hiding.

If the paint could be polished up to 'driver' condition, I'd say $6-7K. But add the cost of a paint job to the $5,500 that you can assume already needs to be spent, and you can see why the estimate of $4-5K isn't asinine at all.
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:34 PM
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Alright, I take it back. If the seller did nothing to the car, you are most likely right. I must have had a bug up my ass after the meeting I got out of before posting.

Nonetheless, if you looks at the rusty, no running s#!tboxes selling on Ebay for $4 - $5K, I still stand by my assessment. If the car has been in a garage for 20 years, out of the sun, the paint WILL polish right up. This car, from the description, polished up with the power plant in and running (even with a rod knock) would get near $10K on Ebay. You guys are guessing half that. I'm not smoking crack.
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:53 PM
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'66 911
Over the years I did (regrettably so . . . ) a few things to the car that probably de-valued it. I added or replaced the trim (frt./rear bumper and rockers) to the '67 "S" specs. I added/changed the rear guards to the '73 rubber ones. (I think I still may have the chromed ones around). I also changed the front bumper to the "S" spoiler type (fiberglass one , NOT metal). I believe I still have the factory sheet metal front bumper with the "glue-on" cast iron weights. I replaced the rear deck lid or I had someone cover (prior to paint) the holes to remove the "PORSCHE" letter set as well as the 911 script. The rear anodized grill has been painted black as well as the front small hood vent grills. I think(I haven't been in that garage for years) I added the Bosch H1 headlight assemblies or the H4 ones. I did add the European tail light assemblies (amber signal) but retained the the USA DOT front signal lights.
The engine IS original with the the 5 spd. trans.
The car has been on NON-OP since stored, so the license plate will remain, should it be re-registered in Calif.

I'll try clearing some of the dust, spider webs, boxes, etc. and take a few pics. in that cramped one car garage for all to get a better idea.

Hz
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Last edited by hifeverz; 07-19-2005 at 04:45 PM..
Old 07-19-2005, 04:37 PM
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I'd like to see some pics.
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hifeverz
'66 911
Over the years I did (regrettably so . . . ) a few things to the car that probably de-valued it. I added or replaced the trim (frt./rear bumper and rockers) to the '67 "S" specs. I added/changed the rear guards to the '73 rubber ones. (I think I still may have the chromed ones around). I also changed the front bumper to the "S" spoiler type (fiberglass one , NOT metal). I believe I still have the factory sheet metal front bumper with the "glue-on" cast iron weights. I replaced the rear deck lid or I had someone cover (prior to paint) the holes to remove the "PORSCHE" letter set as well as the 911 script. The rear anodized grill has been painted black as well as the front small hood vent grills. I think(I haven't been in that garage for years) I added the Bosch H1 headlight assemblies or the H4 ones. I did add the European tail light assemblies (amber signal) but retained the the USA DOT front signal lights.
The engine IS original with the the 5 spd. trans.
The car has been on NON-OP since stored, so the license plate will remain, should it be re-registered in Calif.

I'll try clearing some of the dust, spider webs, boxes, etc. and take a few pics. in that cramped one car garage for all to get a better idea.

Hz
The stuff you did is pretty much reversible, so don't beat yourself up. Just keeping the plate current was a +$500 decision, IMHO. Put the insignia back, the trim, bumper & bumperettes back and get the black paint off the grilles.

If the paint can buff out enough to make it a decent driver, you've just increased the value a lot.

The fact that 'someone' filled the decklid holes implies the car is a repaint? How well was it done?
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Old 07-19-2005, 05:00 PM
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i would like to see this car if possible.
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:10 PM
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1966 911

1966 911

I will have some pics by Saturday . . . the garage is a few miles away.

Bob T.: email me re looking at car
email : hayfever@sbcglobal.net

Hz
Old 07-20-2005, 09:42 PM
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Talking 1966 Porsche 911 Coupe update

1966 Porsche 911 Coupe update

I finally got to some of those pics of my car, garaged for near 20 years. It looked a lot worse than I remembered . . . . we all remember our cars as being better than envisioned . . . ! Seeing the car brought back memories (bad ones) since I was in the throws of a heated divorce. The car was in the EX's custody prior to the court granting me to tow it away. Certain damages (12 month span) were resulted from intentional acts by the EX and company. Luckily I pulled the motor prior to the legal battles, otherwise EX and company would have driven it (engine knock and all).
The pics show some dents, etc. The 911 has a few rust spots(typical surface one's only) in addition to the body work and will need a repaint. Sheet metal, undercarriage, fenderwells and battery tray are otherwise solid.
Car has 166k miles, driven from 1966 to 1986 and stored to date.

"What's it worth" input needed.

Thanks for any help,
Hz

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/IMG_13201122149810.jpg[/img]
Old 07-23-2005, 01:59 PM
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Discovery2 was right.

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Old 07-23-2005, 04:26 PM
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