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Banned but not out, yet..
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The obvious answer is to not touch the stuff or wear gloves in the future. But since laquer thinner won't budge the stuff, and I am not up to dipping my hands in boric acid......
Porsche content - painting seat mounting brackets and handbrake assembly. HALP!
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Stay away from my Member
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Consider yourself fortunate that it's not on your face or hair -- BTDT.
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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About all you can do is wait a few days for some body oil to build up under the paint and peel it off. The other ways may not be pretty. Good luck.
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pumice stone.
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ask michael jackson...
ryan
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To the memory of Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 www.friendsofwarren.com 1990 964 C4 Cabriolet (current) 1974 911 2.7 Coupe w/sunroof 9114102267 (sold) 1974 914 2.0 (sold) |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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POR-15 is amazing stuff - it's actually stronger than the metal in many cases...
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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I got used to wearing rag smeared p-15 hands. It's at the point were it's just another bump.
Try sanding it with 400 w&d after one week for a good idea of how hard that stuff really is. I used the non rust high gloss clear on my new carbs. ie: i bet the clear will look perfect in 10yrs. I like shooting it really thin if surface allows. This pic shows heavily dusted 3x. I waited awhile between shoots. Could have been 30-60min between. The idea was wait for each shoot to lay out before the next.. kinda like shooting honey more than paint.. ![]()
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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You don't. I have tried lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, oils, sand paper, acetone, urethane reducer. I even tried paint stripper until I could not stand the pain. It did not touch it. I love the stuff!
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maybe this is a better pic to show how thin it is. No one has ever commented that they knew the carbs were shot.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Ronin,
Please explain how you sprayed your PMOs to keep lookin new. Did you strip all the brass screws / springs/ jettings off and spray a clear coat (3X - layers) ? Also - POR15 inside a oil tank...what do you think, will it help seal the tank from small leaks. My leak happens after operation and drips 5-10 drops. The PMOs - They look good! Bavaria
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Bavaria911 1970 911T w/ 2.4S 1971 911T Targa w/ 2.2 RG Member # 818 |
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Carb cleaner worked for me of course it's bad for your skin and I'll probably get cancer now.
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bavaria911
"Please explain how you sprayed your PMOs to keep lookin new." ------- I called Por and asked if I could use it on the Al carbs knowing that Al may oxidize under paint, etc. They said it's ok to use. I still have an idea that it may pit? Or that it definately will pit and start to expand from that site if the clear is scratched to the metal. Anyway I'm still figuring good bang for the buck and work output. I stripped the carbs into seperate pieces. Some areas were a pain to remove so I taped them. Then I used toluene or zylene to clean them. The por "Pelucid" was thinned a bit to allow a decent flow from a touch up gun with a 60psi tip. If you use a brush use a small foam brush and only do one coat. A foam brush is plenty good to use instead of a gun. You Can Not use the routine por clear that's used for rust as it will yellow within a year. I've used the routine rust clear por for Al trailing arms and it held up well for 5yrs with no under clear pitting, although it did yellow. I live in a salt air world so if anything has a chance to pit, it will in my garage. So I have a decent amount of faith in my Al carbs holding up. I also figured before hand that the unprotected carbs will tarnish quickly and be impossible to restore like new later. The best is that nobody notices the carbs are painted and they just always look brand new for the past year. Just thin the clear slightly and apply one thin coat with a foam brush. Start at one corner of the carb part and pull the wet brush to the other end. Don't redo a section if possible to avoid pulling up the original and leaving waves of clear. Apply the clear Past The Edges where the gaskets go to avoid the common future peeling at the edge. Wipe the areas down after coating to remove most, but not all, of the clear where screws sit. "Also - POR15 inside a oil tank...what do you think, will it help seal the tank from small leaks. My leak happens after operation and drips 5-10 drops." ---------- I think your best shot is to remove the oil tank and have it torn down and modified at the same time for a larger volume and more efficency. There is pelican search info around on the procedure and cost.. maybe $250 "The PMOs - They look good!" -------- thank you. It's not that they appear to have a nice paint job, it's that they look clean and new. Gasoline doesn't bother the clear at all.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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It will wear off in a pretty short time. After painting the pan on my car, I found the little droplets on my face would shave off.
Ronin, More info on spraying or apinting) that clear on the cards, please. I have a pretty new set of Webers I want to put in my '69 and I have a can (old) of the clear. If I could preserve the carbs by putting it on, I'd like to.
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POR-15 on your hands
I was in a similar situation about two-three weeks ago. I re-did my floorpans with the stuff. Only time and a layer of old skin will get rid of the POR. I tried lacquer thinner and gunk to no avail!!
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Quote:
a can of clear will turn into a relatively brittle coat compared to the por Pelucid. That and the fact that heat cold cycles will stress the stiff clear to carb connection. So I think it will peel, pit, and look dumpy after awhile, depending on geo areas, etc. I've seen that happen routinely on small boats after one year. maybe try a brass toothbrush and zylene or toluene for cleaning the outsides after disassembly ?
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Steel wool with soap or an SOS/Brillo type pad has worked for me many times.
You'll be taking skin off with the POR15 but that's not too bad on your hands.
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Has anyone asked the folks that make POR15 what to use?
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my best shot at relatively clean hands is to keep the toluene close. I wet a section of rag and try to lift it straight up instead of smearing the por over more area.
I do not recommend this reckless behavior.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Quote:
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Banned but not out, yet..
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In bicycling, the call getting chain marks on your legs "rooky marks". At least those come clean. I will consider myself branded until I resort to steel wool or brillo! Thanks for the replies.
How did those nice carbs get on this POR excuse of a thread?
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