Brake upgrade for <$35 that works (993 Deflectors)!

[Emission]

I installed the “993 BRAKE DEFLECTORS” on my 930 last week before a track day. They worked perfectly!

First of all, credit to Jack Olsen for giving me the idea when he put these on BB2 and posted a few pics some time ago (which I can’t find right now).

Second, credit to “Alf” for his recent thread which got me motivated to actually do it:

My jerry rigged brake cooling system actually worked...

After reading about the simple installation, I ordered the parts (Porsche #993-341-083-00 for the left and 993-341-084-00 for the right) for $12.50 each.

I pulled my front wheels, rotors, and hubs to access the “splash shields” so I could remove them (while I was in there I replaced the bearings). Once the shields were off the backs of the rotors, there was a clean shot for the air to cool things. Unlike “Alf’s” install, I did not install the Smart Racing Hub Block-off Plates as a few racers told me they were designed for ducted systems and they would actually impede airflow to “this” non-forced-air system.

I used black “UV Stable” zip ties rated for 50# each. Mounted the identical way that “Alf” did (Jack Olsen had custom tabs welded to his suspension – not something I had access to do); I drilled holes in the soft plastic deflectors and secured them firmly to the suspension arms. They are very solid, and they didn’t even move at speeds approaching 125 mph.

Last Friday, I spent the day at Buttonwillow Raceway Park with the BMWCCA. Since the ambient temp was 94 F. in the afternoon, it was a good day to test the new brake cooling (I was running with the “A” group, so I was pushing the Porsche pretty hard against those pesky M3’s).

After several 30 minute sessions on the hot track, it was obvious this was the least expensive, and most effective, modification I have ever done to the car! Brake fade was non-existent (FYI - I was using “Axxis/PBR Ultimate Ceramic” pads on all four corners). After my last (and quickest) session, I used an infrared pyrometer to measure rotor and caliper temps – and they were 25 degrees (F.) cooler in the front when compared to the rear! Amazing.

For the price, and simplicity, I highly recommended this modification.

Here is the deflector with the holes drilled. The material is soft and can easily be drilled.



A view from the back of the mounted deflector. The deflector is semi-flexible, so I mounted the far zip ties first (loosely), then pulled everything tighter and tighter until it was snug.



A view from the front. Once lowered, ground clearance doesn't seem to be an issue at all.

[widebody911]

I have OG racing scoops and backing plates. Is this something that can be done in addition to those, or would it replace it?

[Elombard]

Very nice. How about a pic of the whole car in race trim! Those wheels look nice.

[}{arlequin]

this is definitely next on my list... do dealers normally just have it in stock?

[Emission]

The tires (Toyo RA-1's) are mounted on inexpensive "ROH" cast aluminum wheels. Fronts are 17x7.5 (235's) and rears are 17x9.5 (275's). Car is mostly stock - just for fun weekend track use.

Here is the car on Friday "cooling down" in the hot sun at Buttonwillow.

[Emission]

Originally posted by }{arlequin
this is definitely next on my list... do dealers normally just have it in stock?

Special order part at my dealer. It just took a day or two to arrive.

[Noel]

I'm glad they worked out for you. Unfortunately, they didn't provide enough cooling for my SC (Still experienced fluid fad), so I switched to the AJUSA Style under a-arm scoops w/ hub block off and that that did the trick for me. No more issues. I'm curious about those with non-turbo brakes that previously experienced fade, if this solved their issues.

[Emission]

Originally posted by Noel
I'm glad they worked out for you. Unfortunately, they didn't provide enough cooling for my SC (Still experienced fluid fad), so I switched to the AJUSA Style under a-arm scoops w/ hub block off and that that did the trick for me. No more issues. I'm curious about those with non-turbo brakes that previously experienced fade, if this solved their issues.

Good question.

FYI, I am running "ATE Super Blue" in the lines (and the fluid was replaced the night before the track).

[thrown_hammer]

.

[PeteBrown]

I intalled Noel's set of 993 ducts on my stock '87 without block-off plates and experienced a little fade at Nelson Ledges a week ago. I run Hawk HPS Plus pads all around and one year old ATE Super Blue with two previous DEs on it. The pedal never went soft but late in the day there was a little more travel.

I do not know if the 993 ducts helped but I know they did not hurt. At my first DE at Nelson, I warped the rotors as result of parking the car after a cool down lap and not slightly moving the car with in the first few minutes after a session.

I'll swap the fluid before Mid-Ohio in four weeks and see if they help down there.

[MichiganMat]

Its also worth looking at these:

http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=1309



Mount a set to your dust shield and plumb them to the front valence.

[Noel]

Pete, you should be flushing your fluid a bit more often than that!!! I still flush before every track event to make sure I have the freshest ATE Blue/Gold fluid to maximize the dry boiling #.

BTW, glad the diverters worked out for you.

[alf]

Just saw this thread Emission, glad it worked out for you.

I did 150 miles of track last week, got a very very small amount of fade. But i think that is because i need to flush the 2 year old fluid...i should also replace the zip ties on mine with black ones like yours.

alf

[911pcars]

If the ATE is boiling, try a fluid with a higher Wet/Dry spec. It might help if you're on the borderline.

Sherwood

[Emission]

Wow. Exactly one year between posts! Amazing.

I'd try new fluid, then like Sherwood says... higher wet/dry specs.

[dd74]

Emission - Do you have any photos of the front of the car on the ground to see how much clearance the shields have? My car is lowered and street driven; I'm afraid I munch the shields on a steep driveway or speed bump...
I can't really see well with this shot...

[Jack Olsen]

I'm glad people are trying it. I think the diverters are not quite as effective as aggressive ducting, but pretty good nonetheless.

You probably can't combine them with ducts, since you need to take the backing plates off to use the diverters. With ducts, you usually use a special backing plate.

Mine are pretty low -- because my car is pretty low. The good part of it is that they bend whenever they impact anything. Compared to ducts and scoops, they're pretty darned indestructible.

This picture shows how low they go. I drive on the street every day, and they've never caused a problem.



Come to think of it, they might be more effective on my car because they hang so low.

[Emission]

I will take pics in a couple hours.

My car is stock Euro height, and I've never hit them on anything. Like Jack says, they are "flexible" so they will give on hard impact.

[alf]

Jack
Do you have the Smart Racing Block off plates installed in yours?

Emission
Noticed that you have a G35 sedan, i had one on the track with me last week, bone stock. Driven by a Superbike Racer/Instructor, he was doing 1.45 laps at SIR and passing just about everyone. He did burn off all his pads, warpped his rotors and boiled his fluid.

alf

[Emission]

Here are three pics that show the deflectors pretty well. Mine are 3.25" off the ground at their closest.

Notice they are nearly in-line with the front wheels (side pic). The spoiler will hit much sooner than the deflectors if going up a curb.