Proper removal of A/C compressor for storage

[Maxhouse97]

I've been going round and round about removing the a/c compressor in my 87. I had to temporarily remove it to change the plugs a felt how HEAVY it was. My system is currently inop but probably would work if I recharged it w/ R12 - until it leaked out again in a year or two. I moved to Ohio where its not as hot but in general like the idea of a/c - someday when I have $3k to spend on it. In the meantime...

Setting aside whether its a good idea on not to do it, how would I best remove the compressor and rear lid condenser and give it the best shot of being reusable? I run the a/c every couple of weeks to keep everything lubed up. Is there anyway to protect the inner workings of the compressor after I remove it? I know there is oil in there. Vacuum seal? What about the rear condenser? I am going to leave the lines and the other stuff in the car - for now.

Also I figured it would be best to seal the lines to prevent moisture from entering. Whats the best way to do that? I would imagine bolts that could thread into the ends. Anyone know the size/pitch of the bolts required? Other means to seal in the hot engine compartment?

Looking forward to losing 30-40 lbs of the back end...

[Maxhouse97]

Or maybe I should just sell it and buy one when I need it - seems as if they are cheap and plentiful...

[tuchan]

r12 plastic caps can be purchased if you don't want to go down the sparky tape route which works just fine. I think the thread (been a while since I pulled my fridgy gear out) is fine 7/16.

Once you get it all out tape all ends and connections from foreign material and it will store ok.

Do you know what is wrong with the unit or where the leak may be? Have you had it charged again, does it work ok after that?

You will want to vac the system and charge it. If you have the tools this is not very hard to do.
The hard part is finding the leak in most cases

[Bob Kontak]

Three grand - nahhh - you don't need to invest that much in Ohio. I just refreshed my 81 SC and my pals 89 930.

If your system is not "broken" and you are an AC noob but mechanically inclined, you can pull this of without a hitch with some reading, a couple hundred in tools and parts and a little help with the R12. If you have an air compressor, you can do the requisite grunt work and have a shop pull a vacuum and recharge with R12.

Moisture is in your system now. Don't sweat it. Sealing off the hose from the evaporator and at the engine lid condenser connection is now a moisture minimization exercise. Griffith's tech will have sealing hardware, I'll bet you. He would know. Call him. I would use a heavy balloon skin or other fairly impervious membrane and duct tape but that's me.

Six months with the compressor out is one thing, six years is another. If you are serious about no air con remove it all. It's around 100 pounds for the lot.

I will be glad to hep with details. You will do "fine" with a stock functioning system in Ohio. You won't get frost bitten but you will not sweat like the folks in the south who do need to spend the $3k to get decent vent temps vs stock.

Edit. In short the grunt work is:
Purge lubricant from system (air compressor and cleaning fluid)
Replace Receiver Dryer ($65) and expansion valve ($35) (and associated o-ring seals at these parts and wherever else needed)
Install mineral oil lubricant - $5 at a drug store. You spread it out a little among the components of the system.
Pull a vacuum and make sure it holds. Tuchan hit the nail on the head - if it holds vacuum then you are home free - if it does not then get to work or pay to have a pro sniff out the leak.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by tuchan

if you don't want to go down the sparky tape route which works just fine.]

Sparky tape?

[tuchan]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Sparky tape?

Oh soz, bit of Aussie slang- electrical tape

[Joeaksa]

Seal the hoses and do not let air get inside anymore than it has. If its left open then you will get to replace the dryer before doing anything.

[Bob Kontak]

tuchan - thanks on the sparky tape. Duh on my part.

Joeaska - I say replacing dryer is a mandatory step now that it has been busted open. $65-ish US - forget about it and just do it

[Maxhouse97]

Thanks for all the help - now I'm thinking of just removing the whole thing. Been reading a lot of lightweight threads lately.

I could probably recharge it and it would run good - for about a year until it leaked out again. I guess I'm just tired of dealing with it...