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Is the rubber deteriorated? |
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Ed |
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Actually, I don't think JD had anything to do with this one, but you never really know do ya? I think my buddy Imcoz may be tryin' to do me in though;) Regards, Ed |
When I do fix this, what should I do about bushings? I have a brand new set of the street or soft Weltmeisters that i was going to put in. I'm getting the impression that these could eventually cause problems too.
What are the recommended replacements? The Elephant Racing bronze types? Ed |
What should you do? I think it's obvious but I'll give you a hint: 935 tube frame ;)
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...After my failed attempt at getting that piece of &^%t dc automotive 3 liter to land in your lap, I figured I'd rig the 911 for a hell ride...
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You guys from Jersey play rough.
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You probably put those things on with your Super Duty 350-ft lb air gun too right? Come to think of it, the front sway bar drop links fell off it in the first few weeks too. Was that your 1st attempt to do me in? Eddie |
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I was faster than him back then too...:p Ed |
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Week End Update
Well, i got the front t-bar mount off this weekend. This is the factory pan. There is no accident repair or parts replacement. There is absolutely no rust. The factory body sealer is in tact and still very rubbery after 28 years no less.
I cannot under stand how these 3 nut inserts pulled out. My buddy who I bought the car from said the the very front one was loose when he put the new t-bars in, but he was able to tighten it down. The metal around all 3 inserts was very clean and shiny and the edges were torn where the insert separated. These look like they are pressed in or pinched over the metal from the factory, not welded. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the factory brackets from the pan. After cleaning the paint off, I made plates to put on the insides of them, where the nut inserts go to reinforce that area. I welded the reinforcements in and then cut 3/4-in holes with a hole saw to reinstall the nut inserts. I ran a MIG weld around the inside and the out side of the nut inserts. I did a test install and all the bolts line right up with t-bar bracing and tow hook/cover. I will weld them back in tomorrow. Here are some pics from today. Ed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124585103.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124585134.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124585156.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124585178.jpg |
Repaired
Okay, the repair is complete. I welded the mounts back in, plug welds through the original holes and a few stitch welds on the perimeter. Some seam sealer and paint and you's never know. Took it out for a good floggin', rock dead steady with no issue.
I had checked the passengers side, no signs of stress. I will weld these on the ousides over the winter when I paint the car. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this damage occured during transport from the West Coast. If the car was chained too tightly or not tightly enough, it may have had a constant tugging on the A-Arm mount for 3k miles. These nut inserts look like the pulled straight down through the metal. Mo' pics. Ed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124661614.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124661626.jpg |
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Nice job on the repair.
Glad it turned out okay. |
I recomend you not buy any lottery tickets. I believe you used up all your luck for a while.
Happy to hear you and car ase safe |
I've seen that happen once where they used it for a place to tie down on a roll back they winched it down so tight it started to pull them out.
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Nice job on the repair. This happened to a 911 race car earlier in the year and the guy just bought long bolts and mounted a plate on the top. He had a fuel sell so he had easy access.
John |
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