Crane optical install and REALLY stupid questions
 

I'm finaly getting around to installing my Crane optical ignition and I'm not sure I know what I'm doing. Anyone up for a step-by-step walk through? I have a '72 with a Bosch distributor.
Now for the REALLY stupid questions!
1) Should I remove the distributor to do this instal?
2) How do I rotate the engine to Z1? - my car originally had AC and I can't figure out how to get a wrench in there to turn the crank

Thanks in advance!!

The instruction manual is downloadable from their site...do a Google. I misplace mine all the time.....

The instruction manual is useless. Yes, remove the distributor, but only after you know what you are doing. Use the search button. This has been documented half a dozen times in the last year.

Here's one way to rotate the engine to TDC:

1. Locate and identify no. 1 spark plug wire on distributor cap.

2. Remove distributor cap. then locate and identify the rotor.

3. Locate and identify the corresponding timing mark on both crank pulley and split in crankcase.

4. Shift car into final gear (4th or 5th).

5. Parking brake OFF, then push/rock car forward (engine OFF). Engine crank pulley will rotate. Rotate engine so TDC marks coincide and the rotor points to no. 1 wire on the dist. cap.

6. Shift gearbox to neutral. Do not rotate engine anymore, then move car to desired resting location, then parking brake ON.

7. Remove distributor to install Crane. Observe how the distributor comes out. Shaft rotates slightly due to helical-shaped gear on shaft. It goes back in the same way.

Go to archives for details on installing the optical unit (must be done on the bench unless you're real good).

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

I just did this a while ago. You might check these threads for some info.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222505-crane-optical-install.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99508&perpage=20&pagenu mber=2

Does it matter which way is up for the unit? The only way I could get mine to line up right was with the clear bulb on the bottom - I'll install tomorrow and try it. I can't see how it would make any difference which light is up or down?

I just reread the crane instructions, and they seem to say that you can put it in either way. Anyone here ever install one "upside-down"?

Great upgrade when it is done. Never having to mess with points and dwell again is the best thing ever.

Did mine about 3 years ago and have had no issues. Still has that "just adjusted" engine response (gotta have points to appreciate).

Chris
73 911 E

Wahoo, you will LOVE that thing when it's done. Did mine a couple years ago. I haven't looked inside my distributor for a year. Set it and forget it!

OK, I definitely need some help!!
I've monkeyed with this thing forever and still can't get it to work.

I have spark from the coil - Warren said that spark at the coil means the crane unit is wired correctly.

I have no spark from plug wires - Does this mean that the unit is working but not lined up correctly?

I have re-checked dizzy alignment and it is dead-on - points to mark at #1 with pulley at Z1

Cap/rotor/wires are all new - triple checked wires for correct firing order

Alignment of Crane seems dead-on with shutter, and I've tried moving it back and forth about a dozen times

Other important info - Crane is installed "upside-down" but instructions say that makes no difference (only way it would fit). I have not changed the plugs yet, 'cuz I don't have the right tools and I'm afraid to lose something down there! CDI box buzzes nice and loud when I turn the key.

Any help/advice would be appreciated. I'm starting to get desperate!!

if you have spark from coil, and you have no spark from wires, then the rotor or cap is messed up. did you break off the carbon tip on the inside of the cap? rotor destroyed? distributor shaft turning?

by now you have probably flooded the plugs good, so plan on pulling them and drying things out. time to get dirty.

joe

Still not running!!! I just finished trying every combo possible of new cap/old rotor, new rotor/old cap, new/new, old/old and I still have no spark at the plug. Any other possible cause for this, like CDI box or maybe weak coil? When I test at the coil I get a blue spark, but I don't know what it should look like.

Coil wire workin'?

"...When I test at the coil I get a blue spark".....

Not to assume too much, but when you test for spark, it goes something like this:

1. Position the coil wire (large secondary wire in the middle of the coil) close to ground (enough space for spark to jump).

2. Crank engine

3. Observe spark jumping to ground. You should also hear the spark jump.

... and when you insert the coil wire into the distributor cap (middle), then crank the engine again, there's no spark when one spark wire wire is held close to ground.

If so, there's an open between the dist. coil wire and the end of the spark plug wire. Does this happen to each and every spark plug wire?

If so, it's the rotor and/or distributor cap; perhaps not making contact. Is the rotor indexed onto the distributor shaft?

Sherwood

Yes, I can hear and see the spark from the coil - once when key is turned on and again when key is turned off. Is this normal, or should I see a continuously pulsing spark? What is "indexed onto the shaft?" The rotor fits down tight over the notch, if that is what you mean.

Just checked coil wire - both my new and my old give a spark like I described above, once on and once off. Still no spark at plug - this time I tested #6 instead of #1. What else? Timing? I marked the dizzy and put it back in the same way with engine at Z1, and I know that the rotor is turning. GRRRRRRRRRRR

Hmm. Not normal. With the motor continuously cranking, there should be a steady stream of sparks jumping from the coil wire to ground. If there's only one spark, there is a problem. Switching the ignition OFF should result in circuit OFF.

Yes, the rotor aligns with and fits over the notch on the dist. shaft.

Sherwood

OK, if this is not normal, what does it indicate?

To clarify; there should be 6 sparks per revolution of the crank. However, I'm not sure what's going on. My WAG is the CD unit - perhaps a wiring issue.

Sherwood

It seems we might be on to something here. I'm going to sears later to buy a multimeter so I can start testing things, if I can figure out how to use it! Should I assume that fixing my CD unit, or replacing it with an msd unit, will solve this sparking issue and let the car finally turn-over?