movement between shift rod and shift rod head

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

I'm trying to diagnose a linkage problem. When I shift from 1st to 2nd, the ball cup bushing pops of the the shift rod head (shift rod joint). I renewed the ball cup bushing and checked the shift rod bushing -- it's OK. The end of the shift rod slides into the shift rod head, but appears to be either cracked or bent.

Is this normal?

How much play is acceptable at this joint? I can move the shift joint up and down 1/2" without moving the shift rod.

Lastly, how much is a shift rod and where do I get one?

mschuep · 07-15-2005, 04:33 AM

Not sure exactly what scenario you are describing, but this might help

Sometimes if there is air in the ball cup bushing, it will pop off unexpectedly. I would be sure that the cup bushing has ample lithium grease, and that you kinda ease it in, pushing more on one side of the bushing to slide it in, rather than popping it on. Ensure a tight seal (spin it around, put pressure on it, etc.) before reinstallation.

Also, the ball cup bushing can pop out of the shaft in 2nd if your linkage is not properly adjusted. This happened to me before I reattached the linkage; pull too far back on the shifter and you will either not be able to move it, or the bushing pops out of the shaft completely.

This could be due to the play you mentioned from the cracked joint, but I am not sure exactly which one you are referring to....you mean the 90 joint at the end of the shift rod below the shifter?

Jerome Ryals · 07-15-2005, 05:27 AM

Todd, where in the Savannah area are you located? I live out on Oatland Island.

randywebb · 07-15-2005, 09:51 AM

got pics?

did the rod itself brak or is about to? I think they can be re-atached sometimes with JB Weld.

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

I have considered that my linkage may be out of adjustment. This problem started with a mushy shift to 2nd. One day, it just popped out of the bushing. Prior to that, everything felt normal.

I can take a picture on Saturday to show the "crack" I'm describing.

Where the shift joint slides onto the shift rod, there is a slight path by which the joint "locks" on the shift rod (with a 90 degree turn.) I believe this "path" has been bent to the point where the shift joint has far too much vertical movement.

If this is really just an adjustment issue, that would be fine.
I'd just like to know if the amount of play I have at that joint is normal.

Jerome, I live downtown. PM me if you'd like.

randywebb · 07-15-2005, 08:42 PM

still not sure what is up -- but whatever it is, it can't be too many $$

you can just toss the whole shifter assy and get a 1985 with all the upgrades - I think the one I got on eBay was about $70... & that's the worst case

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

Hey Randy, did you pay $70 for the entire shift linkage back to the shift coupler?

I have considered using a radiator hose clamp to lock down the shift rod where it is bent. If this solves the problem, I know the rod is bent/cracked. I'd be into it right now, but it's too damn hot to spend an afternoon face down in my footwell. Thanks for the info!

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

Here's a picture of the shift rod / shift rod joint and the "crack" I've experienced.

randywebb · 07-16-2005, 02:21 PM

no - the shifter complete

the shift rod is a different animal (I traded a friend a spare coupler for a different length rod that I wanted so I could use a 911 trans. in my car).

anyway... I don't see the crack... better focus might show something re the ball cup plastic white thing you have but looks ok from here

do this: grab the entire metal cup that sits vertically and wiggle it all around -- post if the shift rod (several foot long thing projecting horizontally back to the coupler) moves with it OR if itseems like they are in two pieces

bigchillcar · bigchillcar's Garage

if i'm seeing the pic correctly..looks a lot larger than just a crack..looks like it's about ready to break off. wouldn't a weld repair it? if i'm seeing it as beginning where the horizontal and vertical portions meet and then curving off towards the driver's side..
ryan

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

Ryan, that's it exactly. I think there is supposed to be a path by which the rod joint slips into the shift rod -- this appears to have "opened up" and is allowing too much play.

bigchillcar · bigchillcar's Garage

i'm no expert, but i'd guess that a welding shop could maybe make quick work of a repair at their shop right inside of your car. you could try purchasing some jb weld as a temporary repair, maybe give you a little more confidence at least until a proper repair can be done.
ryan

Blaine Sellie · Blaine Sellie's Garage

It does not look like a crack to me. The elbow on the end of the shaft is removable. It is held on by a allen head set screw on the left side of the elbow. After the screw is removed, not just loosened, you may have to tap on the end of the elbow with a rubber mallet to release it, but not to hard because any banging on something attached to your gears is not a good thing.

I just recently replaced all my bushings and had to remove this elbow to replace the shaft bushing.

Hope this helps.

Blaine

bigchillcar · bigchillcar's Garage

hmm..sure looks like about a 1 cm wide crevice to me..i hope blaine's right.
ryan

jpahemi · 12:23 AM

That area is cracked and needs to be welded and turned down so that not to interfere with the shaft bushing while in 1st,3rd, & 5th.
How did the crack happen, it's a pretty stout connection?
j.p.
Ps. These guys may have a used one for cheap:
http://www.oklahomaforeign.com
I bought a used fuel/oil gauge from them and got a nice piece.

randywebb · 07-17-2005, 10:52 AM

different years have different attachment methods, so just be aware when you go banging on it.

an inspection mirror at right angles can be useful

if that giant but seemingly shallow 'gap' is a crack then something odd has happened

- use your finger to feel along it and see if the edges are rough

- and... if the shift rod itself has to be removed you will have to drop the engine

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

I pulled off the rod joint and the support for the shift rod. The end of the rod is IS cracked half way around.

I would prefer not to drop the engine, but it looks difficult to weld it in it's current position. If I could somehow bend the cracked piece back to it's orginal position, I suppose it could be repaired in place.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

jpahemi · 07-17-2005, 01:46 PM

Todd:
Welding the rod in place will make it very difficult to tell if the rod is straight. Adjustments could be rather difficult with a bent rod.
j.p.

TMoreken · TMoreken's Garage

Just out of curiosity, has anyone experiened this failure? I do not speed shift, nor am I clumsy. Could this just be metal fatigue? This small problem has turned into a big deal. Drop the engine?!!!!!

Moral support is needed. What are my options?

bigchillcar · bigchillcar's Garage

todd,
my workshop manual which only covers the 915 tranny shows the affected parts to include: the shift rod joint and shift rod, held together by a tapered screw. what i'm unable to ascertain is how difficult it is to remove the shift rod. i'm supposing that once it is disconnected at the shift coupler, accessed through the plate in the backseat floorboard, that somehow or another it should be able to slide it out. surely its removal won't requre an engine drop, although a partial drop of both engine and tranny kept together looks like it would permit it to easily slide out rearwards through the opening at the back tunnel. anyway, once out it should be easily repairable by a welder or you could replace the parts that are broken. i would think someone would have had to have really wrestled hard on the shifter to get it in that condition.
ryan
ryan