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				A-arm replacement: Tech Article???
			 
			
			Is there a tech article for replacing A-arms on 83sc?  
		
	
		
	
			
				I couldn't find anything on the sight. thanks.  | 
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			Search the suspension refresh threads and you'll find lots of info.  Replacing the A-arms is fairly easy, I'm curious why you are having to do so?  Seems like people usually remove the A-arms to replace the bushings or the ball-joints or the t-bars, not to replace the A-arms themselves.  Anyway, consider doing at least the ball-joints while you are in there.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			is this safe place to support the car while I install new a-arm? thanks. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 
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			If that is under the support cross-member, yes.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	'70 911T (AKA Bottomless Pit) - Undergoing restoration '13 Audi A4 1.8T - Surprisingly fun means of getting to work  | 
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			Then it's OK.  If you want, you can move the axle stand slightly inward, still under the same crossmember, as this will make accessbility to get the rear bush out a bit easier.  Give me a moment to get a pic then I'll show you.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			On-ramp 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			The red circles on these two images will show you what I mean.     Didn't do this on an SC, but it can't be much different to what the job entailed on my '70T. Easy job to do, and the only difficulty I had, was removing the worn rubber bushes. Since you are replacing an arm, this is no issue. Do make sure however to note which torsion bar goes on which side of the car, if you plan on removing both a-arms at the same time, and also note orientation of the bars in the arms. Cheers! 
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			How do i separate the A-arm away from this area where it attaches to the shock? (area I circled in red) 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	I removed the cotter pin along with that flat sheet metal with the jagged edges but now what?  
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				A-Arm removal
			 
			
			On-Ramp, 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	The washer and cotter pin you just removed are for the steering ball joint. You could remove the A-arm unit separately from the strut assembly either loosening the steering ball joint nut or removing the wedge bolt that holds the BJ at the strut housing. Obviously, you haven't done any steering ball joint removal. This is a major obstacle in your A-Arm removal. Good luck. TD  | 
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			DT, 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
			you're right, there's a nut there but no way to turn it.  
		Last edited by on-ramp; 08-29-2005 at 11:07 AM..  | 
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			On Ramp, 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			The ball joint nut comes off with a ball joint nut socket and an impact wrench. Some, who don't like the socket approach, will use a very large pipewrench. But in either case there is a procedure you ought to follow to take the A-arm out. Leaving the A-arm in will give you the leverage you'll need to remove the ball joint nut and the ball joint pin (it holds the strut base to the ball joint. If you look at the front suspension tech articles on Pelican, you can piece together an idea and a procedure of what you want to accomplish. Remember: SAFETY FIRST!!! pic of the socket tool:  
		
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			any way to remove ball joint nut without special socket tool?
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			"any way to remove the ball joint [castle] nut without special socket tool?" 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Sure. Cut it off with a dremel tool, or use a chisel to spin it off. In either case, it may come off easily or on the other hand may teach you some new curse words. If you don't intend to replace the ball joint, it's far easier to remove the taper pin that holds the ball joint to the strut body, after which you can rotate the A-arm down to free it from the strut. You should really look at the numerous threads that have discussed front suspension rebuilding, or better still get our host's "101 projects" book.  | 
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			already have 101 projects, nothing in there about this.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	anyway, forget the ball joint nut. I removed the 11mm nut and washer on the bottom of the shock.now i have to find that taper pin.  | 
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			You still need to remove the balljoint unless you are installing new balljoints in the replacement A-arm. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	I don't think you will you get the large ball joint nut off once the A-arm is off the car, unless you dremel it. 101 projects has a section on ball joint replacement.  | 
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			LOL Ubiquity, I love your Morse code! You can put the A-arm in a big vise, clamping on the square section, and get pretty good leverage. Enough to break off the ball joint locating tab welded to the A-arm, anyway  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 
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			yeah, i need to take the ball nut way... this is just a clean a-arm swap.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	how do you do with a chisel? place in one corner and tap?  | 
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			is you do a search on "ball joint removal tools", you'll probably come up w/ a bunch of threads about it.  there are "substitute" tools that can do the job too... soaking it overnight helps as well 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			i remember a pic of a tool "zeke" made for this: imagine a long flat piece of iron and at one end two hex head bolts sticking out. the bolt heads are the same distance as a pair of opposite notches on the balljoint castle nut. the hex heads were dremelled narrower to fit the notches. if you position that tool under the nut and put decent pressure on it by jacking up underneath it, you might get enough leverage to get the nut off. 
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			If you are just replacing the bushings... Do you have to pull the arm out entirely ? I just ordered a new front bushing kit and this will be my weekend project.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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