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It looks like we fall into two camps: 1- "I don't want to have to buy a replacement dimmer switch" and 2- "I feel like trying a bit of nighttime photography of the Grand Canyon".
Two relays (like the Sucro kit) is probably the ticket for the former; the latter are looking at four relays, upgraded wiring, new sockets, improved grounds, etc. |
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The expanse of the canyons demand big watts for pics imo. More even than what I have. So I have 2 100w rally lights ready for the install.. I don't think it'll do much for the high desert canyons except road light. Road light in that area demand big watts for nice cruising thru the large expanses. I figure doing 80-90 on two lane beat up narrow swooping demand doable big headlights to see the full curve.. btdt with stock bulbs and big watts. And.. I always figure that building electrics is open to many options. Pick your option. fwiw.. i like tinned wire. Then Warren posts about E-code wiring that has silver plated with nice Teflon insulator. Guess whats in the rear of my cruller every time I look at a new 911 elec project? The below pic is another situation where really nice lights can make a difference. It was just a few seconds after sundown for the pic. The only light was reflecting off the past sun into the snow flakes. The pic is one thing. But big watts allowed the Montana N to S spring ride, in light snow, thru high hills, with great side to side views, to be a really nice 8 hour ride. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126847973.jpg |
Duh, your right about the contact always being hot..duh! Thanks Ron. I've been digging around for a nice four blade fuse box to mate up with a "pair" of relays. I would love to find some chassis mount relay sockets a make a nice little panel for all this stuff. Stay tuned.
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fwiw.. as one of those "while you're in there" things I ran a Blue Sea System panel w/8 vapor-proof CB's on the floor next to the battery. CB amp ratings are all optional and can be changed to another rating as things develop. The CB's are magnetic , not heat tripped. It's an obvious non Porsche item but it's real nice anyway. |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126875415.jpg |
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Since the two low beam fuses and the two high beam fuses are already bridged internally in the fuse panel, all that is needed is to remove the yellow wire going in from the top of the fuse(low beam feed), routing it into the low beam relay terminal #86 and reconnecting a wire from #87 as your new feed for the low beam bridged fuses. You can do the same with the white wire(high beam feed) that feeds the top of the two bridged high beam fuses, disconnecting it from the top of the fuse and routing it into the high beam relay #86 and routing a relay wire from #87 to feed the bridged high beam fuses. In addition, you can connect to a fused 12V battery source already available when you connect to the bottom of fuse #1 in your fuse panel eliminating the need to provide an additional fused connection from the battery terminal for your relay terminal #30. Cheers, "Joe Electrician" |
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Here's a thread with my 6 relay method. It results in independent high beams, low beams, and driving lights.
Here's the circuit drawing: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1139283879.jpg |
Gee Zoanas, are we going to have a posting contest ;).
If they look at your orginal post (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=263709) with this drawing they will see the pros and cons of both designs. Further comments can be seen here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/259846-sucro-relay-kit-post2394682.html#post2394682. As I state in both places, I do not think either is wrong just different and meeting two slightly different needs. |
Yeah, it's ON, Harry! :)
As you mentioned in the other threads, and I agree, there are many ways to achieve a goal. I have to say, after a week of night driving with my setup, I couldn't be more pleased with the results. The combination of high beams with the Hella 450 driving lights is spectacular on the back roads I drive to/from work. |
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