Timing

[Hoss3.0]

I just changed the ignition components on my '72T in hopes of curing a mis. Plugs (NGK G-Power BPR6EGP) gapped to .024, rotor, cap, points gapped to .016. I removed all the wires and cleaned them and the boots, clipped the ends of the cables and added dielectric grease to all connections. I haven't had much time to drive it but on a short hop I noticed the engine runs much smoother and it seems the mis is gone. What I would like to know is what parameters to use to set timing. I have read 6000 rpm, idle rpm. Do I do a dynamic timing at idle (900 rpm) and then another one at 6000 rpm looking for 32-38 degrees? My Clymer manual says to leave the vacuum connected for the idle check but my car has Weber carbs. My next questions is relating to relatively poor cold starting. I started the car this morning and actually got a back fire out of it. I was hoping the ignition fix would help my starting problems as well. It smells like the engine is running rich. Once the car warms up the idle will creep up to about 1100. Any thoughts. Will proper timing help my start performance?

PS I have documents back to '83 and the last plug change I can find was in '94. But that was only 4000 miles ago. The car was rarely driven since then. The carbs were last adjusted at the same time. So my guess would be the valves haven't been touched since then either.

Sorry for the long post. So many questions.

[Early_S_Man]

Mike,

Here is a thread you should read:

distributor lube...

The timing is adjusted while very briefly revved at 6000 rpm with warmed up oil [at least 180°F] and then checked at idle speed of 900 rpm.

Your point gap should be 0.014".

The vacuum module is only functional at idle, and retards the setting ~10° for emissions compliance, so capping it off and using an idle checking parameter of ~5° BTDC works fine.

It would be a good idea to pull your distributor and clean with a good degreaser like Brakleen, and partially disassemble by removing the vacuum module and points plate ... clean and inspect the centrifugal advance weight for proper operation. Upon reinstalling, you need to check the entire advance curve per teh specs in the other thread.

[2.7RACER]

Mike,
Warren is the man, the only thing I will add is about cold starting. I have a 2.7 with Webers. For a cold start I first turn on the ignition, wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to get to pressure, (3.5 psi). I then pump the throttle twice holding it down (open) the second time. I then engage the starter. My engine usually starts right away. For my car pumping more than twice can get things a little rich.
Once my engine is warm I don't pump at all, I just hold the throttle down (open).
Webers don't have a choke, so a backfire at start up is probably just a little too much fuel (pumping).
You might try reducing the idle slightly after warmup. You commented the idle crept up to 1100 RPM. With winter coming on I wouldn't do a big adjustment to the idle. I'd rather have a little fast idle than deal with stalling issues.