My Starter

porschefan · 10-05-2005, 06:05 AM

I think the bendix spring...or its equivalent in my starter motor is going. On several occasions recently when I turn the key I can hear what sounds like just the starter spinning, but it does not engage. Sometimes after 2-3 trys it will start.....sometimes not.

I assume I need to replace the starter...is this a hard job?...ya know DIY, and could anyone give me an idea of how long it might take?

Thanks
Tom

Rot 911 · 10-05-2005, 06:12 AM

30 minutes once you have the rear of the car jacked up and the correct tools. The top nut of the starter is a 10mm socket head. Easiest way to get at the top nut is to literally "hug" the tranny, wrapping your right arm around and over the top of the tranny to reach the top nut of the starter. You can't see the nut, you have to feel for it.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Kurt said it! If you don't have some mech. skills, the top Allen socket 10mm is a beech to open.
Do a search on this board.

yelcab1 · 10-05-2005, 09:27 AM

For the top nut, you need

1. One flexible ratchet, Sears variety, 10 inch long
2. One 6 inch long 10mm Allen bit in a socket. Would be much better if it has a round ball at the end so it can flex a little and still bites. I had to make my own tool here by cutting off the bit and epoxying it to a 10 mm socket.

Hug the tranny, come from the top, fit in the 6 inch long socket and flex ratchet, and turn.

porschefan · 10-05-2005, 09:43 AM

Everyone on this board is always so helpful. Sounds like a doable job...even for me....

Thanks

Rot 911 · 10-05-2005, 09:47 AM

It is. Make sure you disconnect your battery first.

Superman · 10-05-2005, 10:26 AM

The FAT cable that goes to the starter is UNFUSED, and it is always HOT. Shop manuals always say to disconnect the negative cable from the battery before doing anything. Nowhere is this more important advice than when you're working on or near the starter. You have been warned.

randywebb · 10-05-2005, 05:50 PM

I'd say about 10 minutes once the car is on stands... but I have some experience doing this, unfortunately.

It is isn't hard but the hugging is not what most will think of right off the bat. I take off BOTH batt. cables!

Search on 'yoga' and see if that pops any of my posts up.

Good Luck - use a headlight for ease of seeing stuff & keep all the tools near your creeper.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Yeah, and put on some goggles because the dirt will fall into your eyes.
Mark the smaller wires (Solenoid & CS-timer) so they go back in the right place with the new starter. Use some lube on the nuts when re-connecting.
If the barrel nut on top is tough to open, you may have to put a short extention on the ratchet. Don't bust your knuckles.

yelcab1 · 10-06-2005, 07:43 AM

IN fact, you might want to have new Barrel nut handy, just in case. I always do. It is the same as the head stud nuts.

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

So after much research, mostly this thread, I go in and tackle the removal of my starter motor.

ten minutes after I jack the car up, the starter is in my hands. For whatever reason my starter was fastened using regular old hex nuts. 14mm on top, and 17 mm on the bottom. In fact I got the bottom nut using an adjustable wrench because I didn't have a 17 m with me (don't ask).

One arm over the trans to get at the to nut, no problem. The bottom nut was ez as I said. Now, my engine was overhauled about two years ago so the stud threads were relatively clean.

Anyway - anyone else researching this job in the future rest assured, it can go very easily of luck is on your side.

Now about rebuilding the starter itself....I lost my Haynes manual (Markus - do you have it?) Is there a good procedure anywhere?

I'll do a search.

randywebb · 11-01-2005, 11:49 PM

I don't know anybody that rebuilds them anymore - except an electrical shop that is. Most just get a new one or a rebuilt unit and swap it in. They often have a core charge.

SC Schrauber · 11-02-2005, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jwetering
So after much research, mostly this thread, I go in and tackle the removal of my starter motor.

ten minutes after I jack the car up, the starter is in my hands. For whatever reason my starter was fastened using regular old hex nuts. 14mm on top, and 17 mm on the bottom. In fact I got the bottom nut using an adjustable wrench because I didn't have a 17 m with me (don't ask).

One arm over the trans to get at the to nut, no problem. The bottom nut was ez as I said. Now, my engine was overhauled about two years ago so the stud threads were relatively clean.

Anyway - anyone else researching this job in the future rest assured, it can go very easily of luck is on your side.

Now about rebuilding the starter itself....I lost my Haynes manual (Markus - do you have it?) Is there a good procedure anywhere?

I'll do a search.

I have a spare one in my garage.

Jeff Alton · 11-02-2005, 12:16 PM

Jasper, Moben on Scott road near 84th in North Delta is an excellent shop to have yours rebuilt at. Not too far from work either.....

Cheers

911pcars · 11-02-2005, 05:21 PM

Now that you have the starter removed, take a look at the flywheel teeth through the mounting hole. Rotate the engine around and verify all the teeth are still intact. No teeth means no engagement.

When the ignition switch is in the crank position, the solenoid energizes and does two things:

1) closes the electrical contact between the battery cable and starter motor
2) moves, via linkage, the pinion gear and overrunning clutch into mesh with the flywheel teeth.

You can perform a bench test to confirm operation with a battery and some jumper cables.

Sherwood