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I'm out, at least for Saturday.
I've got over $1,000,000 backlog in my shop that needs to get out so I'll be working Saturday's and maybe Sundays for a while. Still feeling the aftermath of the hurricanes. Lots of this stuff belongs to the refineries and they want it back like yesterday. Doing my part to get the gas prices back down ;) BTW, I do the valve cover nuts by feel. I use the silicone gaskets torqued to 3-5 ft. lbs (estimated, best guess) and they don't leak at all. |
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I'm not really close to any autoparts store so having everything I need is critical. |
Yup, what do you need?
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I need a feeler guage with xtra blades and a dial indicator that works great on the exhaust valves.
:) |
Okeydoke.
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I'm with Randy, just do them all equal with the same wrist in the same motion and you're probably good. 6 lbs. is scary light, but it's what you do here. The nuts are good for one time only. That's when they seal and don't back off. So go loose before you go too tight. You can always go back and put a little more on them. But the first time is the best and let them seal. |
What torque wrench is a must?
Lug nuts - a 1/2" drive wrench - same for various fasteners on the suspension, brakes, If you rebuild an engine, you will need that + a 3/8" drive one (lower range) for various things... rod bolts (unless a more accurate way to set tension is required {torque wrenches are not the greatest...}) and maybe a 1/4" drive one... I have a beam type one of those that I use once every decade or so... I don't know of anything on the Pcar that requires really accurate torques as low as ft-lbs in the single digits. I'd get one of those fancy screwdrivers torque tools for Mil-Spec electronics if there were - only place I've ever seen the real low value ones. For more info search on torque wrenches - people have posted some good info before - you could include JIM + SIMS + BILL + VERBERG (or is the 2nd 'e' a 'u'?) to cut down if there are too many results ... |
I hate it when this happens -
I just got off the phone with a local wrench shop who quoted me $330 for a complete valve adjustment job / Oil and filter, includes parts. So now the dilema, where do I draw the line on when to take it to arench to do the job and when don't I? So far, many of you have said that it's VERY tedious and very STRESSFUL, so is this one of those jobs that will teach me something usefull about my motor? Or will I end up just frustrated and regreting not having a pro do it? |
On a side note, I own a full set of wrenches, sockets and what not, along with a new aluminum jack and some stands.
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BRJ,
I'm free first thing tomorrow morning (sunday). Call me at 951 852 2719 if you want to do it then. Cheers, Jason |
Make the decision to dIY or Pay the shop...
Based on your continued apprehension...pay to have it done and be through... Good luck.. |
Paid the man $160 for the Valve Job - DONE!
Did the oil change myself - Yes I'm too chicken to touch valves after speanding so much on them this year allready. Maybe next time - ( I took notes while it was being done by a pro. Save my weekend for the family - Thanks to al who offered help or advise. |
WHo did you have do it, and where are they? Always good to post a positive experience with a shop here so others can try them. Nuttin wrong spending time with the fam instead of under the car.
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However; once you've taken the dive you'll realize that $160.00 would have bought a lot of beer...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1128882149.gif |
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Again thank's to all for your help in this. |
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