3.2 ref sensor flywheel sensor questions

Shuie · 10-09-2005, 02:26 PM

Im cleaning up my 3.2 before putting the motor in the car. Nothing earth shattering, I just want to make sure I replace everything thats really worn before it goes in the car.

Check out my ref sensor and flywheel sensor wires. The insulation is cracked and peeling away from each. Does Pelican sell these or is it perfectly okay to just wrap them in a good quality electrical tape and move on?

Also which of the two is the flywheel sensor? Im guessing its the one with the pickup mounting directly over the ring teeth? The two wires are marked 'DG' and 'BG'. should these markings tell me which is which?

Last question:

What kind of gap do I need between the ring teeth and the pickup? There is definitely some play while the bolts are loose and I didnt check i with a feeler gauge before I pulled it off.

TIA

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Definately replace them. Gap the bottom one at .8mm
I can't remember which is which but I remember the "BG" is the Bottom connector.
The sensor over the teeth is the Speed Sensor.
The other sensor is the Reference Sensor. It only gets used during starting.
-Chris

Shuie · 02:51 PM

perfect. thanks. off to find them in the Pelican catalog. My shopping cart is getting full

Any chance someone has the part numbers? Is it one of these?

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Shuie
perfect. thanks. off to find them in the Pelican catalog. My shopping cart is getting full

Any chance someone has the part numbers? Is it one of these?

The "impulse senders" 911.606.215.01 are the one's you want.
BTW: The "timing mark sensor" is not even connected to anything, nor have I seen it used for diagnostic pursposes. (In other words, the catalog is completely wrong on that count.) It's what racer's call "extra weight".

-Chris

Shuie · 10-09-2005, 03:31 PM

ahhh, okay. the cheap one is the one I dont need at the top of the flywheel.

What about this? More dead weight? Im not using a boosted master cylinder and I dont need a vacuum retard for the idle timing so I cant figure out what I need this for? The rubber is cracked on it though so it needs to be replaced if i need it. Fingers crossed that I dont. I bet this little unit isnt cheap.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I don't know if you need that part but the rubber is easily fixed.
-Chris

Rot 911 · 10-09-2005, 05:41 PM

Thats the vacuum line for the brake booster

Shuie · 10-09-2005, 05:48 PM

thanks Kurt! So I can cap it off and forget about since Im not running boosted brakes, right?

Out of curiosity, does the DME get a vacuum actuated signal from anywhere off of the intake?

Thrasher · Thrasher's Garage

Bentley lists both "0.08mm" and "0.8mm" on the page covering the sensor replacement. I'm inclined to go with the latter, but does anyone know for sure?

Shuie · 04-19-2006, 03:45 PM

Its got to be .8. I know I could see a gap between the teeth and the pickup when I removed mine. .08 is a razors edge, way too small.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

.8 - hows your CHT sensor ?? and carrera fuel line? (Both much more easily replaced when the engine is out)

Shuie · 04-19-2006, 05:27 PM

CHT is new. Im pretty sure the fuel line is okay.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Is cht two wire?? If so you should be ok - check the fuel line for cracks - they are known for catching the carreras (and those with swaps) on fire...

Thrasher · Thrasher's Garage

Jeremy, my CHT is also new (2-wire) version. PO must've had that replaced. Wrench decided it was too much work to put the new connector in the 3-hole bracket, so it was just left outside of it; I removed old single-wire connector and will put the 2-wire one back in the bracket.

My engine is not dropped, but my fuel lines look to be good also.

Anyone have any suggestions where to look for a 0.8mm spacer/washer? I have a micrometer I can take to a hardware store and find a proper width - is there a better way?

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Thrasher
Jeremy, my CHT is also new (2-wire) version. PO must've had that replaced. Wrench decided it was too much work to put the new connector in the 3-hole bracket, so it was just left outside of it; I removed old single-wire connector and will put the 2-wire one back in the bracket.

My engine is not dropped, but my fuel lines look to be good also.

Anyone have any suggestions where to look for a 0.8mm spacer/washer? I have a micrometer I can take to a hardware store and find a proper width - is there a better way?

Knowing what I know now - I really think it's easier to drop the engine to get at some of these items. It seems daunting - but fiddling with stuff like the reference sensors with the engine is the car - it's easy to spend multiple of hours -

So - my advice would be - get wayne's book - drop the engine - Took me 4 hours to do - and I did it twice! - about 2 hours to reinstall on my my own...

or take the micrometer to the hardware store -

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I know it took me a while to find a .8mm thick washer. Every time I'd come across a washer I'd measure it. I eventually found one in my gravel driveway!

I just measured some 6mm washers. Most are 1.5mm thick. I have three "flavors" of aluminum washers and one flavor was .8mm thick. As an experiment I tried hammering on a 1.5mm thick one to see if I could make it .8mm. I could but it ended up being so wide that I don't know if it would fit on the end of the sensor.
-Chris

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

try the stainless ones - they are thinner

Thrasher · Thrasher's Garage

Good call... thanks !

avt007 · avt007's Garage

Regarding that "vacuum booster" line- mine was cracked, so I tossed it. I plugged the port in the big rubber elbow, and ran a straight vacuum line from the left hand intake manifold to the brake booster hose. Runs fine,and the stockk boosted brakes work fine too. I'm not quite sure what the point was for having this thing.

AtomicDog · 04-21-2006, 10:19 PM

Shuie,

That vacuum pipe is exactly like the one I just had replaced. The pelican part # is not correct for my flavor of '86. My wrench even had to send back one of the wrong ones. I'm at work now, but I'll post the correct part number as soon as I find it.

The hose cost me $133. The incorrect part was the most expensive one listed @ $124. HA! Things can always be worse. BTW - night and day difference on the car. I can check my oil without nearly killing the engine. The vacuum source between the AFM and the throttle body is metered air, and you can't set the mixture properly without that hose intact.

Back at you tomorrow with the number...

Chris