Help! Valve adjusting problems.
 

I am attempting to adjust the valves and I am on cylinder 1 and the marks are at top dead center. I cant seem to find any space between to fit the feeler gauge through to adjust the valve even when I back the adjustment screw all the way out. What am I missing here?

Turn the crankshaft through another 360 deg, the cams operate per two revolutions.


Steve

Interestingly enough it turned out that we just need to rock the rocker a little be to "break the seal" between it and the valve. Thanks for the quick responses.

Matthew,

Ignore this post if this is your 1xx valve adjust.

If its your first - please let us know how it went. Any special pointers or difficulties / tricks you encountered ?

Would be great for a newbie like me, whose been contemplating my debut in valve adjust.

Markus,

It indeed was my first valve adjustment and so far it was a success, but I wont know until I get the motor back in.

As far as tips, well I cant say strongly enough how much easier having the motor out made it. I couldnt imagine how much of a PITA it could be if it was in the car. Other than that, take out the spark plugs helped the motor rotate with ease. We just follow Wayne's book and all was good, took my father and I about 2 hours to complete.

Good luck to you and all others.

Oh and reguarding tips and this post, you have to loosen the valve and then rock the rocker back to make the feeler gauge able to fit. That threw us off for a bit.

Thanks Matthew,

I posted a while ago and came to the conclusion I did not need a valve adjust just yet ( 5k miles). Rather, I would do a "dry check" without actually adjusting anything - just to get the feel for the procedure - sliding the gauge in etc.

From your post I understand even that will be a PITA with the engine in the bay and that I probably won´t even be able to slide the gauge in at the right place.

I mean people do it, with the motor it. I just cant imagine how difficult that would be to have the feeler gauge in there, tighting the nut all while keeping the screw from moving.

That said, some of these guys could probably do it with their eyes shut.

Well, I have at least 5 k to go - before I am faced with it..

BTW, at this time in Sweden ( 5 pm) its usually rather quite here. Must be very early Sunday morning for you, right ?

Haha, im a young guy and I work weekends and go to school during the week. Rebuilding my 911 comes at odd hours. And yes it was about 6am my time.

The little "Elephant foot" swivel will bind to the top of the stem due to the oil film. That's what makes it so difficult to get the feeler blade in.
I like to back out the adjustment screw, put the blade under, tighten up and check the slide.
While you're at it, check for broken valve springs, and correct position/torque on the rocker shafts.
I removed the A/C, fan blower and there is no CAT, so, I have room but it is a PITA with the above still in place.

I have only done a handful of valve adjustments, so I remember the troubles. It's not that hard with the engine in the car, just remember to drain the oil, and don't take out the spark plugs first, as you might drop some carbon on the valve seat and won't be able to adjust the valve correctly. The right tools make it much easier (the feeler gauges are a pain). Get a "Z Block" and a dial gauge. They will pay for themselves in reduced frustration and a professional wants a lot of $$$$ to do this for you.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Tools_folder/tools_dail_gauge_holder_P207.JPG

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Tools_folder/I3110-02.jpg

Although the metric dial gauges are much better for doing Porsche things like valve adjustments and cam timing.

Rex

Check out my post in this thread for some other tips: 10,000th valve adjustment question
-Chris

EDIT: Fixed the link.

Chris:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/17783-3-2-ltr-911-engine-needed.html
Wrong thread?

I think he is in with the seller! :D

Rex:
Pelican no longer sells the metric dial indicator. (Or even the standard)
I would go with a 0.001" and just convert.
Seattle, or Spokane, would be convenient for me.
Any suggestions?