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Regenerated User
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Hood Latch post
I've replace the bottom latch with a new one and still I get the pop up. ??? I've tried to position the pieces so there is a tighter fit, yet this has not solved the problem. Please look at my hood post and let me know if it looks worn.
![]() Should it look like this? What does a new one look like?
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My uncle has a country place, that no one knows about. He said it used to be a farm, before the motor law. '72 911T 2,2S motor '76 BMW 2002 |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Richmond, VA USA
Posts: 1,058
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The bottom catch might not be fully engaging the top post, or being withdrawn slightly during driving by an actuating cable that does not have any slack in it.
The top post must be adjusted for height so that, when engaged with the weather seal touched all around, there is some vertical plan in the hood. The hood should not fit so tight that it does cannot move. The top post must be perpendicular to the plane of the bottom latch. And solidly mounted so that it does not distort sideways. The cable that actuates the lower catch needs to have some slack in it when at rest. And the top post mount must be adjusted laterally so that the lower catch can fully engage the top post. The right end (big end) of the spring needs some grease so the bottom catch can slide sideways during the engagement process. |
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Registered
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Doug,
Is the new latch assembly fully lubricated with plenty of moly grease? If not, be sure it is before trying another adjustment. Your pin looks pretty good ... al it needs is cleaning up with Brakleen and some rubbing compound to make sure any corrosion or burs are gone. Reassemble with plenty of moly grease on pin and spring/plunger.
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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Regenerated User
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Good points,
I do have some new heavy duty hood shocks that possibly lift the windshield side slightly and cause the pin and slide not to be completely perpendicular. I had not thought of that. I'll look for a thread on adjusting this if possible. I did clean the pin a little. I didn't want to take any drastic cleaning measures, thinking if it's worn I'll be making it worse. I'll reclean this. I did grease the new bottom piece, but perhaps not fully. I made sure the slide was lubed well, but I know it could use more. I guess my thinking there was if it's not lubed all over it won't move as easy and thus keep the darn thing in there. I don't understand the slack thing. ??? I think the previous onwer shortened my cable because right now it is nearly to the very end and any more wouldn't hold the thing at all. OK on the slack thing, the way I understand it there are three positions and slack causes it to open in case of a cable break. Right now that slide is extended, I believe all the way out, because there is the pin hole that looks clean through at this current position. But, there is no slack. ?? I've played with the height enough so that there is give when engaged and pushed down. I hadn't thought of the post spring preventing the slide form fully engaging. I'll regrease that. Speaking of engagement, I was thinking while installing this that the spring pulling the slide to engage (out) feels week. Does yours feel weak when you take your finger and push back into the recess? Right now, it seems to pop up at some speed over 40mph and over a bump. On that note, my shocks do need replacing as it's a bit harsh and I can visibly see grease on my red Konis (Probably original). Seems logical that new Konis would help here too.
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My uncle has a country place, that no one knows about. He said it used to be a farm, before the motor law. '72 911T 2,2S motor '76 BMW 2002 |
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Regenerated User
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el bumpo
__________________
My uncle has a country place, that no one knows about. He said it used to be a farm, before the motor law. '72 911T 2,2S motor '76 BMW 2002 |
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