76 2.7 questions

jhynesrockmtn · 10-24-2005, 09:32 PM

Hi,

Looking at a mid year car, great overall original condition. No rust, very straight body. Engine was rebuilt many years back with dilivar studs, etc. and updated carrera chain tensioners but the air pump and original exhaust was retained. Car has done 20,000 miles since in the mild northwest climate. Compression is 150 across all cylinders and it runs great. Are there further inspections/tests that should be done on the motor to confirm condition?

How difficult is it for a DIY to remove the pump, thermal reactors and backdate the exhaust using SSI's? Car will also need brakes. Those I'm comfortable with.

Am I crazy to consider this car? Looking for something I can upgrade and improve over time, part time street and beginner track DE use. Car can probably be had for around $7,500.

Jerry

dd74 · 10-24-2005, 09:38 PM

Hell no you're not crazy. Pre SC/post '73 cars are terribly underrated. The next likely (most) underrated 911 is the 964, but that's beside the point.

If the 2.7 has been rebuilt, someone's already done all the hard work for you. Your next step is to remove that thermal emissions ***** on the exhaust side, and install '74 or earlier exhaust, or SSIs. You'll need a dual-in muffler for the SSIs, of course.

You're next job if you get this car is install a 7.31 ring and pinion in the transmission.

After that, show the car who's boss!

IROC · IROC's Garage

I looked at a car very similar to this about 13 years ago. It had 17k miles on a full rebuild, blah blah blah. I bought it. Still have it. Best car I've ever had.

Replacing the exhaust probably would't be that bad since it's just been apart 20k miles ago. It's a pretty involved job, but straightforward. The hardest part is usually dealing with stubborn fasteners.

Good luck!

Mike

Rex Walter · 10-25-2005, 04:22 AM

jhynesrockmtn,

I have loved my 1975. If the one you are looking at really has no rust, and a rebuilt engine, $7500 sounds great. I would have an experienced Porsche mechanic look it. If you aren't familiar with the local Porsche gurus, look here:

Seattle repair favorite..........

Aren't Dilivar studs the ones that always break on the later cars? I think they were replacing the stock studs with Dilivar for a while, then discovered that over time, the Dilivar studs would eventually break.

I would also say that if you don't know where to look for rust (behind the headlights, under the battery, under the fuel filler, between the fenders and doors....etc), it could be hiding. Have an experienced person look at it, just for the piece of mind.

Rex

deanp · 10-25-2005, 05:46 AM

As said, removing the airpump, air injector lines and thermal reactors is pretty straight forward. The key word is patience. Take your time on the exhaust stud nuts and the air injectors. Lots of threads on the board discussing various methods. The general consensus is start spraying days in advance of removal and if they don't want to budge use heat or the dremel method.

I've read here, and other places that the Dilivar work better on the mag cases as the thermal rate of expansion matches more closely. Have to search on that one....

My '76 came from the Sacremento/Fresno area in similar condition, documented rebuild 20k miles ago (many years ealier) and completely rust free. I paid about the same amount.

Elu · 10-25-2005, 06:14 AM

I bought my 74 in mostly primo condition for $13,900. It's practically perfect, but that means only that the body was perfect, the paint was good, the interior immaculate and the engine and tranny rebuilt. The surrounding parts however, external oil cooler, brass lines, A/C system, plug wires, and WUR needed to be completely replaced. I have put another $5000.00 into it to make it absolutely perfect like it was a new car. It turns heads.