Rear swaybar mount replacement

[gabenheimer]

I was at a local DE event I discovered that my passenger side rear swaybar mount was broken. When I put the car I jackstands I found out that the drivers side had been replaced by the previous owner with the new-style mount. The newer-style mount has a "butterfly" gusset to brace the bottom flange.

After reviewing my options I decided to replace the broken mount with the stock new-style mount sold by our host. This would match the repair on the drivers side. I also looked at aftermarket mounts or possibly fabricating my own mount. Since this is a street car, I felt the new stock mount should be sufficient. Aside from my poor welding skills, the job was straight forward. (I've had my MIG welder for years, however I don't use it enough to get the feel of it.)

For anyone who may have to do this project themselves, I took several pictures of the process. Start to finish was about five hours. Good Luck!

After moving the oil line out of the way, you can see that the bottom of the mount was completely destroyed.




I used a wire brush attached to a porting tool to remove the undercoating and expose the factory welds.

I used a grinder to cut through the welds and pry off the bracket. The wheel must be removed to grind the weld on the back side of the bracket.

Here is the frame after the bracket was removed. The "ghost" image will be used to line up the new bracket.

Use the grinder to remove the factory welds and remove any rust or grime. The surface must be clean to ensure a strong weld for the new bracket.

I used a magnet to hold the bracket in place while used a MIG welder to tack it into place. In this picture I have already welded in the factory locations and used the grinder to dress the weld.

Don't forget to weld the back of the bracket to the frame. In this photo I have already welded along the bottom of the bracket and used a grinder to smooth out my sloppy welding.

Once the bracket has cooled down, be sure to use a quality undercoating to protect all of the bare metal. It is also important to note that once the bracket was tacked into place, I bolted up the sway bar to check for proper alignment before I did the final welding.

I had the car at the track last weekend for another DE and wow, what a difference! Now I just need bigger brakes, lowered suspension, a roll cage.....

[syncroid]

Nice job on the removal. I have done hundreds of S/B console replacements and I still hate them. You did a really nice job of it. I mean that! Good choice on using the new mount too (911 501 983 00 GRV) Better to keep replacing your S/B consoles with stock ones then to visit the body shop for a ripped out frame rail area.

[Lukesportsman]

Nice job on the photos.

Syncroid or others, are you suggesting that there might be problems with the newer stronger mounts hitting the market? I was really hoping to go with the stronger mounts this winter. Anyone's input?

[syncroid]

The mount that he used in the photos is the updated mount. Thats a good mount. What I was tring to say is if you tried to beef up the mount any more then that, you might run the risk of tearing up the frame rail instead of the mount itself. Think of it as a fuse blowing instead of the wiring harness going up in smoke.

[Lukesportsman]

Thanks for clarification.

[syncroid]

Lukesportsman, I just noticed your signature says you have a 1972. The mount for the 72-74 is different then the 75-89 mount. The part # for the 72-74 mount is 911 501 180 00 GRV. The difference is in the bolt spacing. Its been awhile since I have done one of the 72-74 style mounts but I think they now come with the extra gusset as well. You could use the later mount but you would need to update the "U" brackets at the same time. (part # 113 411 333)

[911SCfanatic]

Perhaps Luke was referencing the new Wevo mounts?

[Lukesportsman]

Good catch Bill, I was refering to the Wevo's and have not called them on it yet. Was planning to go with an aftermarket bar setup like Tarret or such. I figured I'd let Smart Racing help me out since they show to be the vendor and the only place I've seen it listed in catalog. Wayne, if you can get them, speak up

Will it still be an issue installing these on the early tub? Do you know if I can use the Wevo's are one's like them what your were cautioning of above? I have a solid low rust CA tub, but don't care to it up. Do you feel I should go with the numbers listed above to keep it the "fuse"?

I can weld, so ripping a mount, though exciting, isn't that big of a deal to me if it is safer and sufficient for a 19-20mm hollow rear bar set fairly soft.

[syncroid]

If it were me, I'd use the 911 501 983 00 GRV (stock gusseted mount) Just my .02

[911SCfanatic]

Luke, my guess is that the Wevo mounts would not create any issues whatsoever. If you've ever seen a section of the longitudinal in that area its very beefy. I would PM Hayden (Wevoid) and ask. It seems like his products are very well engineered.

[Breeang]

Bump