whose chassis? Tyson or a 911??:D :D :D

Mr. Schmidt, you should be in engineering school. It'd be a breeze for you, you'd meet a lot of smart ladies, you'd raise your income ceiling considerably and you'd get to work on exciting design projects.

One thing he will not do in engineering school is meet a lot of ladies :)

Well, I mentioned that earlier. I do exactly that, but only on coil-over cars. Since the main goal here on the torsion bar cars is increasing chassis rigidity/ torsional stiffness, the angled piece is much more effective in reducing twist, which is the most beneficial to handling.

The bottom gusset came about from seeing many cars that were heavily tracked that were splitting the seam in that area. I would seam weld them back together, than add in the gusset. (In addition to the upper pieces) Big improvement in feel. The client always comments afterweard how much tighter and creak/flex free the chassis is when it's done.

LOL! :D

:D :D :D


I just got this joke!

;)

i've got more... trade 'ya for narrowbody eeevil setup secrets :D

I could PM you some info on how to fit 245's on 944Turbo 8's in the back of a narrow body. But you have to promise not to tell anyone.

now *that* would be cool. would those fit in the front too?

(i'd tell no one and pretend that i'm naturally quick :D )

Sent you an "Evil" PM.

SSSHHhhhhhhhhhh..........................

Awesome, Tyson. Maybe something similar for the Cab reinforcements? I didn't miss that, did I?

Cheers,

These actually help a lot on a cab. (Especially if you can butt the feet of the rollbar right up against the firewall near the RSR pieces so that when welded in, they are effectively tied together through the firewall.)

But the ones I had done in the front on Scruffy at one time just aren't that feasible for most people. That's part of the reason I removed them. That, and rules.

I have seen Scruffy and know these work. thanks for the very nice detailed explanation. HMM 245 on 8s on a narrow body. My newly painted SWT could look quite evil that way...

Tyson - what are your thoughts on spot welding in between the spots where the factory welded on the eqarly cars unit body. Would that be valuable to do?

Let's say we break the candidates for this down as:
1. Street only coupes
2. Street only targas, cabs
3. Street/Race as above with cage.
4. Full race - cage assumed

I'd recommend seam welding rather than spot. But to answer your question:

1. street only coupes: yes on '71 and older, as these are the flimsiest. '72 and newer are strong enough for street duty.

2.street only Targas and cabs: yes, all years, they need all they can get.

3.street/race w/cage: yes, all years, the cage puts new stress in new areas.

4.fullrace/cage: absolutely, and gussets at every joint/weak point. Not a bad idea on #3 either.

I forgot to mention the rocker stiffeners. I gave the info to Thom Fitzpatrick, and he contacted Euro-Tek. He bought the stiffeners, and installed them on his cab, and also on a friend's car. It's all documented on his website.

I'm still quite curious about them, though, hoping for more details here at some point:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=245949&highlight=scruff y

TIA! :D

I took the car to work today. still so cool to drive a car as tight as a coupe (nearly) and then put the top down for the ride home. engine is starting to come into its out. and the RSR improvements Tyson added in the engine compartment make a BIG difference!

"I'd recommend seam welding rather than spot..."

- I thought doing the entire seam caused too much heat "migration".... ??

Thanks for all your help and advice!

all you do is "skip" around the seam rather than lay one continuous weld bead.