78SC Heating - Blower connector / harness + Pics !

[acapella8]

I think I may have found the culprit to my heating problem, but I need some help from pelican's.

I am attaching a few pictures of the rear blower connector. I found it in the Bentley page 801-5, but I can't get another picture for reference.

One wire appears to have broken from the connector.

Question - does the connector separate from the blower?

[acapella8]

I unwrapped all tape from connector, found the 'hook' connector inside, cleaned off all connections, installed.

But it still won't turn. Both interior levers up and front levers configed for heat.

I think I need a new blower. Anybody have one for sale?

[Dirkclod]

when i had proplems with mine i removed blower {not hard} and wired 12 volts direct to it to check it.

[Steve 82SC]

I just finished with similar problems on my 82....motor wouldn't come to life. That connector that you're holding should have a corresponding male/female connector that's coming off the blower. If not, it may have been changed over the years.....you can make your own if necessary. Direct wire the motor to a 12V power source from a battery. If the motor comes on, you don't need a motor. There a small "tangs" that supply ground on the underside of your heater levers. Check that they're not full of lint, dirt, etc. that would inhibit the ground. Also check the fuse panel on the left side of the engine compartment. You have a blower motor relay. Change it out for a black one in the trunk and see if it makes a difference. There are also two fuses on that panel for the hear. One is the blower motor relay fuse and the other is the blower motor fuse. My blower motor came on with direct wiring, the connection was good, and I had ground at the levers, but it still wouldn't come on with the levers. The electrical supply (what you're holding in your hand) would turn on a test light when I pulled the levers up, but it wouldn't power up a 12V air compressor, in other words, it wouldn't take a load. The trouble was within the multi-point pin connector that runs into the fuse panel. If all else fails, pull the connector out and take the inside cover off of the connector panel that you're holding in your hand. That yellow wire on the heater blower runs into the pin connection. The end of that wire is soldered into a male bushing that ends up connecting to a female receptacle that is part the plug that remained on the fuse power panel when you pulled it off. Sometimes those connections get "tired" and require cleaning, re-soldering, etc. My particular problem was not with the yellow wire, but the red wire that runs in that same pin connector. The red wire is what supplies power to that entire panel....it was the same issue, just a tired connector. Took me forever to find it (with help from this board and John Walker), but it was a free fix. Good luck.

Steve

[Steve 82SC]

My apologies....the bushing in the pin connector that pulls off is male....the corresponding connection that remains attached to the fuse panel is male. Sometimes you can clean them up and slightly "spread" the male part of the connection for a tighter fit, assuming that this would be the only issue. I see that you're local. Let me know if you need some help.....I had my head buried in there for a week and eventually became fairly intimate with the heater system.

Steve

[PorscheGuy79]

Originally posted by acapella8
I unwrapped all tape from connector, found the 'hook' connector inside, cleaned off all connections, installed.

But it still won't turn. Both interior levers up and front levers configed for heat.

I think I need a new blower. Anybody have one for sale?

I got a blower for you, its loud as hell but it will work for a test run. I will bring it down when I come.

[Steve 82SC]

Apolpgies again...the bushing that pulls off is female....the leads that stay connected to the fuse panel are male. I'm at work now and keep getting interrupted with employment-related issues....prevents me from paying attention to more important Porsche-related issues.

Steve

[Bill Douglas]

Mine didn't work either, and I didn't know that Steve was such a wealth of knowledge!!!, so I just pulled the rotor/fan thingie out from inside the black air duct and lots of air gets through now. Next I'll pull the blower motor out and throw it away to save weight and make room.

[acapella8]

I finally got the car safely up on jacks:



LOOK what I found... I think I found why I do not have heat:



Previous owner put tin foil (about 10 layers) over the flapper box hole. The only reasoning for this is that the car used to live in Las Vegas and if every post I read is true, the 911 can put out some heat. He probably wanted to rule out heat altogether.

Not my rear blower motor still will not turn, but this NEW discovery has to be why Tom is not getting any heat at all.

Now this leads me to this question:



My flapper box works nice as I reached in to activate lever and it would move freely, so it's not frozen.

What part do I need to connect my exchangers to the box?

Thanks to all who helped me locate, I attach a pic of a typical pelican night since I got my p-car.

[acapella8]

I add one more picture for a better showing:



Still looking for the part I need for both left(this one) and the right, which is gonna be HARD to get to...

[Porsche_911s]

I spotted the problem..... Coors Light. Although entertaining, this will not fix the problem.

[1974carrera]

You need flexible hose and 4 hose clamps to connect the heater exchangers to the flapper boxes. Here's a pic of the hoses. Hope this helps

[cmonref]

acapella8,

Do not be so quick to replace your blower motor on the engine. Once you get the plumbing right between the heat exchangers and the flappers, the flappers hooked up to the heat levers at the brake lever, and make sure that the ducting in the engine compartment is all present and connected and not leaking, you will find that you have PLENTY of heat -- even for Chicago.

The heater blower was added by Porsche to meet US specs for a heat system that would "work in the driveway" like a typical American car -- that is, heat moving being felt at idle. At anything above idle, the engine fan forces FAR more heat into the cabin than does that puny fan. Just hook up the ducting and unplug the motor (to prevent the inevitable screeching when it runs out of lubricant).

[acapella8]

Brian - thanks for the advice, I will heed it before taking the plunge to buy a motor.

I've just started looking but what is the part number (is there a part #) for the flex-house and clamps that I need?

[5speed]

There are aftermarket hoses and clamps that you can use. Pelican carries both the OEM and an aftermarket hose. If you enter "heater hose" in the search pelican parts box at the top of the page you'll get a list of parts. Go to the 'Heater Flapper' category and you can find a pic of the connection hose and associated parts that our host offers.

[Mysterytrain]

Brian, i respectfully disagree. I backdated my heat when I went to SSI's and removed the rear blower. The heat was intense while the car was moving but I lacked the ability to preheat the cabin while the car warmed up in the driveway. If it was lacking in New Jersey its going to suck in Chicago. My solution was to add footwell blowers and I have lots of heat now!
Acapella..I would test the blower as others have advised by applying 12 volts directly to the leads. If the blower works [which i doubt] you can start to work back thru the wiring. There are fuses on the rear fuse panel for the blower motor and the blower relay. You can also check to see if there is 12 volts going to the blower fuse. If the fuse is good and there is no power then the relay is not working. this could mean bad relay or the heater lever micro switches are not activating the relay. Its actually a very simple system.
Ok, now i have a question..does anyone have a part number for the connector shown in acapella's first picture?? they seem to be used everywhere on the car but I can't locate the part number.

[acapella8]

Thanks, I just found it - and will be placing an order for the ducting soon.

Will directly wire the blower to 12V, (which I have not yet) tonight when I get home.

[Steve 82SC]

Have to agree with Ron.....that rear blower motor is really necessary for heat at lower speeds. I've run it both ways....big difference in comfort levels, especially here in Chicago if you've got a nice, salt-free day in December or January. As I recall, there are generic replacement motors to replace non-functioning OEM ones.

Steve

[acapella8]

Anyone know what the diameter (the exchanger to flapperbox) of the hoses are? I might need to retrofit something before my pelican order comes in from CA.

[acapella8]

bump.