A couple of questions about welding.

[andrewro]

Hi guys, for those of you who have welding experience, I have a few preliminary questions. I am hoping to be able to do some structural work on my '72 911T next year.

First question. There is a continuing ed class in welding at the tech college here, and I am waiting to find out about enrollment. The cost is $270. I do not know if there is room to keep an automotive project in their facility - I doubt there is but I will ask. It seems like a good idea to learn in a safe environment with good equipment. Has anyone gone the community college route to learn welding?

Second question. What is the minimum spec and cost for a used MIG welder that would be appropriate for automotive use? Brand and model suggestions are welcome. I'm looking at replacing things such as the front pan and the firewall/parcel shelf area. I know I'll also need a mask and other protective gear so if anyone has a ballpark budget for getting started, I'm happy to hear it.

Okay, that's it for now. Just trying to get my ducks in a row to see if I can afford to keep the car and do the work it needs.

Thanks,
Andrew

[mb911]

It just so happens I teach welding at a tech college and yes many many students do the same thing you are doing (hobby learning)

As for welders I always suggest the hobart handler 135/140 for this type of work. About 450 set and ready to go. I also suggest for your application to buy a nice helmet example jackson next gen or speedglass. This will really help the hard to fit areas.. they are about 300 but you will never need a new one and it also is a skill you can use more than once. Good luck

[LM3929]

I use a Lincoln Mig Pac 10 that uses 115 volt power and CO2 /argon gas to shield it and paid $ 399. Canadian ( thats about $75.00 us) and welded 16 guage medal up to 1/4" with no problens.

it seems to be one of the better Mig units and not costing an arm and leg.

look to get an automatis shied insted of the fixed shade units it will help your welding

Lorne M

[GIBSON]

Andrew, never took a course and wish I had, learning as you go tends to lead to a lot of lousy welds. But, you can do it that way.
Just happens that this weekend I wanted to build a rolling cart for my welder (you can buy them for not much money but then why do you have a welder in the first place?). So, I had this rolling cart from Harbor Freight (I think) and I decided it would be easy to modify it for use with the welder. So, about 30 minutes of work and here's what it came out like. Easy to do, rolls great and the top shelf work height is much nicer for me. Lincoln Weld Pak 100 welder with Argon gas shielding makes for some ideal welding for sheet metal and some good projects around the house. Here's how it came out:

[rfuerst911sc]

I am no expert but here is my opinion, for the mig welder a unit that puts out 120-180 amps is preferred, the brand should be based on the local vendors you can deal with that can provide parts and sevice if needed. Hobart,Miller are just two names that come to mind. You want a true mig welder that utilizes gas vs. a wire feed welder that uses fluxed wire.In regards to education there are high schools,vocational schools etc. that have welding schools,all your trying to do is learn the basics and practice those skills. You might want to talk to folks in your local PCA, you might be surprised there may be a DIYer that has welding skills that he/she will share with you.

[TWork]

I'm pretty sure PP doesn't sell welding equipment... with that said, I'd recommend checking out a site called cyberweld.com. That's where I picked up a good deal of my welding gear. Fairly good selection and price points on things like welding helmets and useful stuff. You may also want to check out the forums on a site called autobody101.com which has pretty decent info on the basics of technique as well as what equipment to choose and why. I'm a novice welder myself and my father in-law teaches a welding at a local community college. I picked up a Miller 175 which he recommended as a good place to start.

T.

[NY65912]

I've got the Hobart and for sheetmetal and 3/16" and down works great. Something that should also be thought of is choosing MIG wire for size and the ability to be used on "dirty" metal.

I think that MIG welding can be self taught with practice.....worked for me. My best buddy has a frabrication shop and I would steal away some afternoons and take tips from one of his guys. I am now looking at TIG welding.

Cheers

[GIBSON]

Here's the photos I forgot to post on the earlier thread:

[Zeke]

The above welder is what I have. To move up a notch is to have both feed and amp controls variable instead of only the feed, as his and mine do. Taking instruction is always a good idea, but the classes at local colleges tend to move slowly. You can really learn the basics in a few hours and get pretty good in a few more on similar work. The ability to weld anything in any position can take years to learn.

[H20911]

All of the above.
Do not get a wire/flux unit because unless you are good (or get lucky) they spatter and the welds will look..... how you say.....functional at best.
It is best to get your settings dialed in on scrap then go forward. If you get dialed in first then you should run smooth.

[Rick V]

I have a cambell 115 mig. They call it a farmhand. The welder a pair of good leather gloves and an insta-dark shield along with a few spools of.30 wire was around $350
I used this unit to rebuild the frame on my little truck when the son broke it climbing over stumps. I am proud to say none of my welds broke when the son flipped the truck in a cow field.
My son has polished my welding skills. BTW my little truck is still alive and still going strong (Jr. has his own junk now)

[tab tanner]

If you live near NW ohio stop by my shop I will show you how to weld!!! I use a Lincoln sp100 wire welder for almost all of the sheet metal a bodywork, a Millermatic 200 for heavier stuff, and a Holbart cybertig 300 for everything else. P.M. me if your in the area

[john walker's workshop]

i would recommend a 220V unit. i have a 20YO snapon (century) that's a lot nicer and easier to use on sheet metal than the new miller 135 i bought thinking that new technology would be better. sold it on craigslist after using it for a couple of weeks. must be something in the circuitry that allows a smoother spot weld without as much spark and spatter as the 110V model. the majority of 911 body repair is basically sheet metal that requires a series of overlapping spot welds, rather than a long continuous bead. i also have a large lincoln that doesn't do a very neat job on sheet metal when it's turned down real low to supposedly work, so it's important to get one that will work within the range you will be needing. hard to do sometimes without trial and error, and the salesmen always tell you what you want to hear.

[Jeff Alton]

I have a miller 175 (220 volt) and love it. I am still a pretty lousy welder but it is fairly easy to use and over time I am sure I will get better

Cheers

[andrewro]

Thanks very much, people, really! There are a lot of great suggestions and personal experiences here. Tab, I'm in NE Georgia so unfortunately I cannot take you up on your offer, though I really appreciate it!

As I said, I am getting my ducks in a row so I can decide my next step. Since I do not have a space right now, but am trying to get into a friend's space hopefully over the winter, I am leaning toward taking the class this winter and stashing money to buy a welder at the end of the class term. I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks!
Andrew

[rpmgroup]

the tech welding couses I have attended, used classroms-welding stations for 90% of the training. It was weeks before we worked on projects, and then on small items. The body shop classes when to work on vehicles the second week. Thank goodness I had welding 101 first.