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Somewhere in the Midwest
 
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Souk’s Ramps for Scissors Lift

I’ve been asked a few times about the ramps I made for the Harbor Freight lift I have. I need the ramps because my cars are too low to drive over the lift without hitting the front sway bar. Anyhow…I figured I’d post a response that I typed recently for a guy. Maybe someone else will find it useful.

Here goes:

I don't have exact dimensions as I just took some rough measurements of the car and lift before I headed out for the lumber store for 2x4’s, threaded rods, washers and nuts. I bought sixteen 12 foot long 2X4's and I believe I already has an 8 foot long 2x4 in the garage to use for the cross member in the at the front (or is it rear) of the ramps)

I used eight (8) of the 2x4's per ramp, which is wide enough to allow 245 tires to roll onto them without the tires hanging over the edges. When I have the 265 racing slicks on my Carrera, the tires hang over the outside of the ramps a bit, but it’s not a problem.

I cut the angle of the approach at a 45 degrees, but 30 degrees or less would have been better. I was limited to using a table saw at the time. I had to cut the 12’ 2X4s one at a time on a table saw. Imagine supporting a 12' 2x4 on a table saw with the miter fence set to 45 deg...w/o a helper! :-)

It’s best to cut the ends before drilling through the 2x4 for the threaded rods. This way you can line up the angled ends of the 2x4s. Then with a carpenter square (or anything that’s straight) draw a line across the eight 2x4s set on ends and helded together with a clamp. If you don’t have big enough clamps, don’t worry…just get the 2x4’s lined up and tight. The idea is just to guide you when drilling the holes for the threaded rods. If you are off a little, just put a couple of nuts on one end of the threaded rod and hammer the rod through the 2x4’s once the drill holes are lined up.

I drilled holes for three threaded rods, at the ends and in the middle, of each ramp. I cut the threaded rods to length (width of the ramps made up of 2x4 on ends) with a hacksaw, and cleaned the threads with a file, then the nuts threaded right on. (Use a large washer under the nuts.) You can cut the rods to the appropriate length and counter sink the nuts if you want a nice clean look. I just left mine protruding the 1/2 inch or so. I never had a problem with it, but you can snag the toe of a shoe if you are careless. I just filed the rod ends smooth over the nuts.

Once I bolted the 2x4s together for both ramps, I just laid the two ramps on each side of the lift allowing for some clearance for the lift. If you leave 1-2 inch on each side of the lift, the ramps will accommodate the track of a 911. Once I positioned the ramps, I cut a 2x4 to width (outside of ramp to outside of ramp). Then I used lag bolts (pilot holes drilled) to bolt the cross member (2x4) to the ramps.

The cross member will hold the ramps pretty parallel so you don't need anything in the rear, but you can add a cross member there too if you choose. I found that leaving the rear open allows me to roll a jack under the engine (you're gonna want that if you plan to drop the engine). You can make a rear cross member detachable for engine work, but I found it was not necessary.

I use a chain to tie the front cross member to the front of the lift. Without the chain, the ramps will slide forward when you hit the ramps on approach. That's about it. It's pretty simple.
The rear cross member you see in the picture was just put there to see if it made sense to add it. I’ve never needed it in the 2 or so years I have been using my ramps.

I’ve gotten so use to having the ramps in the garage that I now just pull into the driveway with enough speed to hit the approach and roll up and onto the ramps w/o using the clutch. I tend to miss a bit when I pull other cars (non-911) onto the ramps since I don’t have the fenders to judge my alignment. And when I pull the project 911 (fender less) onto the ramps...it is usually good for a chuckle when I get out and see that I’m hanging over one side by a good 2 inches or so.








Old 12-29-2005, 07:27 AM
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Nice setup! Does that lift have a mechanical safety lock/pin?
Old 12-29-2005, 07:39 AM
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Nice work.

Man, I wish I had a lift
Old 12-29-2005, 07:40 AM
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Very nice.
Thanks for this
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:40 AM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by cegerer
Nice setup! Does that lift have a mechanical safety lock/pin?
Yes, there are four stops on the model I have. It is a very secure lock that has put up with a 911 at the highest position, and me climbing in and out of the 911. Of course I would never attack it like a linebacker while the car is raised, but the lift is safe by my standards.
Old 12-29-2005, 07:44 AM
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Great work Souk, your carpentry skills seem to be on par with your auto wrenching skills.

BTW: Is that a photo of the new garage?
Old 12-29-2005, 07:44 AM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
 
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LOL...my carpentry skills nearly lost me a thumb when I was 9 yrs old

Nah..thoses are pictures of the old garage from maybe 2 years ago. The new garage still needs electrical and drywall....
Old 12-29-2005, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Souk
Of course I would never attack it like a linebacker while the car is raised, but the lift is safe by my standards.
ROFLMAO! Since when did you get "standards?"
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:01 AM
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Hey man...I haven't killed myself in 2 years Kurt...so the testing period is over and the standard written ...OK OK...I'm a loose canon sans standards...there happy?
Old 12-29-2005, 08:04 AM
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"For Sale: 1993 Ducati 900SS SP w/ <9000 miles"

For sale? I seem to recall advising against this purchase. Listen to me. I am wise.
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:30 AM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kurt V
"For Sale: 1993 Ducati 900SS SP w/ <9000 miles"

For sale? I seem to recall advising against this purchase. Listen to me. I am wise.
Geez Kurt...I was hoping to have a good day today

Yesir! You were right. I like the feel of the Duc from zero to 80 MPH, but after that it's like forcing a marginal looker to strut her stuff on the cat walk...it just ain't satisfying. The Ninja lives for 80MPH+ screaming shifting fun. If the Duc doesn't sell, I'm going to strip-chop it and make a street fighter ala Souk....it's just money right
Old 12-29-2005, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Par911
Great work Souk, your carpentry skills seem to be on par with your auto wrenching skills.

BTW: Is that a photo of the new garage?
Haha, Pari look at the bastard, its in one piece!
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:01 AM
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hay Souk, how is it for oil changes? hint hint
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:06 AM
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Yeak..it's funny to see that picture of the car in one piece Matt

Mike, Since I started construction on the new garage everything has been pretty much on hold. I moved the cars into the attached garage and they haven't moved since. The only real work going on my life right now is at the office and around garage. Soon..soon...
Old 12-29-2005, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by PorscheGuy79
Haha, Pari look at the bastard, its in one piece!
hahahaha........tell me about it. Souk has so many freakin toys, I had to look at the photo three times: think about it, question what I thought, look at it again, and then ask! I swore that wasn't the bastard, I mean it doesn't even show a hint of blues brothers in the above pic.
Old 12-29-2005, 09:16 AM
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Ramp for the lift? I thought that was the beer holder for when tooling around in the garage. =o) Nice stuff Souk.
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:37 AM
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LOL...when I come home from the beer store, I just back the Jeep up to the raised lift and slide the cases out of the rear of the Jeep. It comes in handy and I don't strain the back.

Pari..the new paint job will probably have some Kop Kar - Blues Brother touches
Old 12-29-2005, 09:43 AM
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Instead of trying to cut the ends at an angle, a much simpler thing to do is use stepped layers of 1/2" plywood, staggered to form the angle and height needed. Screw them together to make a single piece. For an even gentler approach use tapered base molding to ease the transition between steps.



this approach is much gentler on the supension, wheels and tires.

Don't make it too long or the front spoiler will have issues.

For 3.5" height you would want 6x 1/2" layers, each a couple of inchs wider than the one above it
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:45 PM
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Good suggestion Bill. I never bothered with anything better than what I started with since the end of my driveway has a curve and dip as bad as the ramps I might take a belt sander to the ends this summer, but that's low on the project list
Old 01-02-2006, 06:04 PM
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Souk, I noticed that HF has another lift with 3-7/8" minimum height. It's max lift height is 39", however. Do you find that you need the additional height of your model? If I can get the motor out from under it at 39", I can avoid building the ramps.

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Old 01-02-2006, 06:33 PM
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