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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
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Just to stress what Tyson mentions; at this point, the best reason to have adjustable sway bar drop links is the ability to accurately corner balance your chassis. Since this is a track car, this should provide you with fewer handling and braking issues.

Once ride height is set, corner balancing adjustments will result in each corner having a slightly different ride height (e.g. the front end corners may not be exactly the same. With fixed-length drop links, installing them will create a pre-loa)d that will throw off the balance by X amount. Adjustable drop links will allow you to install the sway bar so it exerts 0 preload at static rest (as Tyson mentions, only one drop link need be adjusted). Same with the rear end.

Sherwood
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

Old 01-14-2006, 10:06 AM
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So.. without a pit or lift how are you able to reach the adjustable link.When the car needs to be weighted also need drivers weight and fuel load. Its my understanding is the reason for adjustable links is so there is NO type of pre load on the bar. So then is the none adjustables in some way a compromise
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:02 AM
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So.. without a pit or lift how are you able to reach the adjustable link.When the car needs to be weighted also need drivers weight and fuel load. Its my understanding is the reason for adjustable links is so there is NO type of pre load on the bar. So then is the none adjustables in some way a compromise
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by captainrb
So.. without a pit or lift how are you able to reach the adjustable link.When the car needs to be weighted also need drivers weight and fuel load. Its my understanding is the reason for adjustable links is so there is NO type of pre load on the bar. So then is the none adjustables in some way a compromise
To answer your last question first; With fixed length sway bar drop links and assuming the ride height is exactly the same on one end of the vehicle, there is no preload on the chassis. Any deviation in ride height between the two corners would create preload. However, with rubber drop linked bushings, some deviation would be taken up by the relatively forgiving rubber. YMMV.

To access for adjusting drop links; ideally, you need a lift, the type used by alignment and muffler shops where you roll the car onto it. Without such a lift, roll the vehicle over some stacked 2x6s or equivalent. The driver's weight and usually 1/2 tank of fuel should be in place when adjusting the drop link(s), same as when corner balancing (to be most precise).

Sherwood
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars
Old 01-16-2006, 09:16 AM
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When I corner balance cars on my scales, I have to lay on my back and reach under the car to adjust the drop-links.

I have to keep the steering wheel straight ahead, because otherwise the caster will cause the readings to be thrown off. The turnbuckles of the adj. drop-links need to be well lubricated and free moving so I can feel the neutral point as I turn them.

Then I recheck the readings, and adjust the necessary corner. Then I have to re-check the drop-links, and repeat until it's all settled and perfect.

The other method is to disconnect one drop-link front and rear, and corner balance the car that way, then reconnect the drop-links. But it's very difficult to get them in with the car in this state. If you lift the car on a conventional hoist, you lose the proper ride height. You need to have it on an alignment lift to do this properly.

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Old 01-16-2006, 09:42 AM
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