Sucro Relay Kit

[DavidI]

From the onset of owning my 83 SC, I have been dissatisfied with the H5 (the car has been made to look like a 964 cab) light output. I recently ordered 80/100 replacement bulbs from PP and ordered a relay kit from Marcus Sucro.

I received the relay kit yesterday and decided to install it. His instructions were very simple to follow. The entire install took me about 30 minutes and went flawlessly.

I am waiting for shipment of the bulbs and will make sure that they are adjusted properly so I don't blind oncoming traffic or cars in front of me.

Another happy customer, David

[pjv911]

Where can I buy one of these kits ? Link ?

Kurt Williams

[Glasgow 911SC]

Originally posted by DavidI
I recently ordered 80/100 replacement bulbs from PP and ordered a relay kit from Marcus Sucro.

Will the existing wiring to the headlights and the socket itself stand up to 80/100 bulbs?

[emcdan]

SoCal....Agreed...after reading a few posts, some make it sound like a rip-off for going the Sucro route. Unless you are pretty good with electrical stuff, you'll spend a lot of time (aKa money) figuring your wiring choices without the Sucro relay. His relay setup .with instructions is probably worth more than $25.

Chris....re-wire with 12g wire minimum. It is a very easy project! Remember your gas tank is only a 1 foot away! Old hard wiring for 55/60 bulbs not worth the risk

[Glasgow 911SC]

Here's the link to the kit Kurt.

[pjv911]

Thanks chris

[Wil Ferch]

Actually....although there is undoubtedly a better set-up if you increase the wire size...the existing wires still *do* handle the 80/100's well enough...

I've spoken with Marcus extensively on this point to include bench tests made to measure temperature rise of the wire ( resistance) under load.

I wouldn't push it to 130W though....

Just to be clear it isn't "absolutely necessary".....consider a wire upgrade as an improvement.

BTW..if you do upgrade, don't forget to upgrade the ground from the headlights... increased "feeder" size won't do you much good unless you upgrade the "return" too !!

- Wil

[MAS956]

What emcdan said.

[DavidI]

Originally posted by Wil Ferch
Actually....although there is undoubtedly a better set-up if you increase the wire size...the existing wires still *do* handle the 80/100's well enough...

BTW..if you do upgrade, don't forget to upgrade the ground from the headlights... increased "feeder" size won't do you much good unless you upgrade the "return" too !!

- Wil

Thanks for the heads up Wil. As soon as I receive the bulbs from PP, I'll also upgrade the ground.

David

[MIK911]

For the electrical-impaired (me), which wires (from where to where) need to be upgraded. How long of a project will this take (again for the 2 left handed, nonelectrician).
I've been putting off this project cuz of my fear of wires, but it's simplicity may push me over the edge .

thanks

[Wil Ferch]

As I said.... ( talk to Sucro too, if you wish to get a second opinion)..the wires on the car...and in the kit...are good for 100W .....

- Wil

[HarryD]

I just did my own relay upgrade (Daniel Stern helped me out here). Not hard. Plan on an afternnon.

I offer the following thoughts:

1-Wire replacement: In a 30+ year old car, the insulation is brittle and new wires are easier to work with. While a smaller gauge (say 14 or 16) has the necessary ampacity, I choose to use 12 ga for all aspects to keep it simple.

2-Headlamp sockets: As part of the kit I obtained, I got new headlamp sockets. The old ones, like the wires, were brittle and I felt I should have quality sockets to go with my new job.

3-Fuse Panel: The old fuse panel is very brittle. Be careful when pressing on it our it will break (as mine did).

4-With my new relays and wires, the existing sealed beams were definately brighter.

correct spelling

[DavidI]

Originally posted by MIK911
For the electrical-impaired (me), which wires (from where to where) need to be upgraded. How long of a project will this take (again for the 2 left handed, nonelectrician).
I've been putting off this project cuz of my fear of wires, but it's simplicity may push me over the edge .

thanks

In Sucro's relay kit, all of the wires were labeled such as "to battery" or "to ground" etc. It was almost too easy. Fortunately, the wires were not brittle, nor did anything break. It took less than 30 minutes from start to finish. I used the crimp on style used in shops to make all the connections clean. Also, Marcus Sucro includes an instruction sheet that provides additional information.

David

[HarryD]

FWIW, This is how I wired my headlamps and my plan for driving and fog lamps:



Note that the Driving Lamps work only when the hi beams are energized and the fog lamps run independently of the headlamp circuits.

[ZOA NOM]

Do this.

It's far easier than it looks.

[HarryD]

Zoanas,

We both solved the problem in a slightly dfferent way. I think neither is truly "wrong" but I have several objections to your approach. That said, some may find your approach more attractive for exactly the same reasons.

My objections are:
1-Under the stock wiring scheme, there are times when both the high and low beams are energized simultaneously such as when I flash my high beams when only the low beams are on. Because I have not rewired anything until after the stock switches, I maintain the stock switching strategy. Your wiring plan eliminates this.

2-You are unable to operate fog lamps independently of driving lamps under your scheme. I can see times when I want my fogs on but not any of headlamps.

3-Your plan requires the use of 6 relays to have less functionality than the 4 in my plan. Also, because you have relays in series, it is not totally clear what is the exact function of each relay. As an engineer who has designed equipment, I find this wasteful in terms of labor to build, unneeded complexity of design, and cost of parts.

The post you link to has much discussion of the pros and cons of these designs. Each person has to decide what they need and choose accordingly.

Once again, not wrong, just different and some may like this approach better. Each person must choose for themselves.

[ZOA NOM]

Originally posted by HarryD
Zoanas,

We both solved the problem in a slightly dfferent way. I think neither is truly "wrong" but I have several objections to your approach. That said, some may find your approach more attractive for exactly the same reasons.

My objections are:
1-Under the stock wiring scheme, there are times when both the high and low beams are energized simultaneously such as when I flash my high beams when only the low beams are on. Because I have not rewired anything until after the stock switches, I maintain the stock switching strategy. Your wiring plan eliminates this.

2-You are unable to operate fog lamps independently of driving lamps under your scheme. I can see times when I want my fogs on but not any of headlamps.

3-Your plan requires the use of 6 relays to have less functionality than the 4 in my plan. Also, because you have relays in series, it is not totally clear what is the exact function of each relay. As an engineer who has designed equipment, I find this wasteful in terms of labor to build, unneeded complexity of design, and cost of parts.

The post you link to has much discussion of the pros and cons of these designs. Each person has to decide what they need and choose accordingly.

Once again, not wrong, just different and some may like this approach better. Each person must choose for themselves.

I should address some of your points.

1. When I flash my high beams, both my high beams and my driving lights are lit. It is an impressive sight.

2. Actually, my fog (driving) lights are independent of the headlights. I can turn them on with the fog switch with only driving lights on. This is because the old fog fuse is left in place to provide a 12v lead to the alarm system.

3. I appreciate your background, but the relays are arranged so that each of the filaments are on an isolated circuit, which limits the current through the relay. A full 100w bulb will only draw 8 amps through my setup. The first set of relays provide switching of the power lead to the hi/low beam relays. Without them, I wouldn't be able to turn off the headlights. If one of the hi/low relays fails (they usually fail in the closed position), I will still have low beams. Also, I would only lose one light if the relay totally failed.

The relays are cheap, and plentiful, and easily configured. I think the isolation of the circuitry gives my design more flexibility with high-wattage bulbs, and easier troubleshooting.

[pjv911]

I just finally ordered one of surcos kits. I will update my results once I receive it.

Kurt Williams

[RoninLB]

I run 130/100w Narva bulbs in non-DOT Cibies from two 75amp Bosch relays. I also use that high heat bulb receptacle.

Alignment is easy as our lens are low and if alligned you'll never get flashed and have great optical distance. After the routine text alignment go for a ride at night. If you get flashed they are aimed too high. If you don't get flashed raise them. etc

Now the lens are aimed up/down properly. For curves and for reading Interstate signs off to the right I'll tweak Only the right lens alignment a little to the right, which also helps with right twisties. For sharp left twisties I'll Only tweak the left lens a little.

imo when running hi watt bulbs the internal ground will melt if you lean on the flash too long. I melted both bulb grounds within a minute of each other when I had a bright idea to wire both the high and low on at the same time when the highs are selected.

[rnln]

Hi, I am ready to do this and I have a question on relay prongs. Let me label what I see on the relay and someone please correct me.

85 to ground (car chassis)
30 to batery (+) terminal (is 10g wire good enough for high watage bulbs?)
86 will be the turn on signal wire (+), connect to the headlight switch (can re-use the stock wire?)
87 to the headlight unit (+) (is 10g wire good enough?)
Headlight Ground can be connected directly to the chassis, no need to connect to the relay.

Do I get it correct guys?
What is the 87a prong for?

Thanks in advance.