Brake Kit Sacrilege?

[AtomicDog]

So I'm looking through parts for my beater truck the other day... Decided to peek at what may or may not be available for the P-car.

It just so happens that one of the larger parts rebuilders offers 911, 964, and 928 brake components for very reasonable prices - rebuilt with warranty. Even factoring for the loss of a core charge, rebuilt 4-piston calipers for less than $175 each does not seem like a bad deal.

Is it sacrilege to suggest that a big brake kit could be pieced together with parts from A1Cardone? The adapters would still need to be machined for the custom application, but the data is out there...

Anyone considered this?

Chris

BTW, how do you post a poll?

[AtomicDog]

day 2 bump...

C

[jester911]

So where is it that you saw these brake parts?

[Jack Olsen]

Calipers aren't necessarily the big expense with a brake swap. I paid less than $175/caliper for my 930 brakes. But adapters/hats/rotors are where the costs kicked in. If you pay someone else to do it, then their hours are also a factor.

[JohnKo]

I don't know how relevant this comment may be, but when I was shopping for a rebuilt/remanufactured Audi steering rack, more than one person said run, don't walk, from A1Cardone products. 'Rebuilt' has many definitions in the real world, and rebuilt parts are only as good as the one that rebuilt them.

John

[AtomicDog]

jester - ******** (insert between the www and com) - so as not to offend...

Jack - I would not consider paying for what I should be doing myself. If I had the $$ for a retail kit, I wouldn't be looking at the site in question. I would likely supply the drawings to a local machinist for the adapters, and the same website had Zimmerman rotors, as well.

JohnKo - I believe that many so-called "rebuilders" are a bunch of idiots armed with nothing more than a Chilton's. But for the price of a rebuild kit, I could fix most mistakes...

I'm not trying to knock the kit "manufacturers", retailers, or customers. My perception is merely that the engineering work is paid for - hundreds of times over - yet the price does not reflect it.

I'm also convinced that with a junkyard full of parts, I could engineer a brake system that could stop a 747 on a nickel, if not a dime... You should see the pads on my truck. Develop a twin aluminum caliper-capable strut and trailing arm for 911s - with the component kit to match, and you'll never have to worry about how to finance your track car... Should take about two weeks of vacation, a couple of 911 parts, and 25 pounds of coffee.



Chris

[randywebb]

you forget that the deacceleration of any car - 911 or not - is limited by tire friction

[Jack Olsen]

Bigger brakes' chief advantage is their ability to scrub off heat. Stock brakes up to spec will lock up the wheels just as easily as much bigger, much heavier, ones. If you're not tracking the car, I don't see why you'd want to add all that unsprung, rotating mass.

[AtomicDog]

Randy & Jack,

I assure you that I haven't forgotten about tires, nor the consequences of adding unsprung weight.

My issue is simple. When I brake at 75% or more, I get no sense of impending lockup. What I do get is the feeling that there is no margin for modulation. I need to go through the brakes, but I wouldn't be surprised to find pads that are glazed or unsuitable for colder temperatures. I'm just too cautious on the street to try and get them hot, in case they go away.

In essence, this is a case study in attitudes as much as about brakes.

When I have the opportunity, the brakes will be updated to their optimal, ORIGINAL configuration with the appropriate tweaks for my conditions and driving style. From what I've read about how good the stock Carrera brakes are, I'm a little underwhelmed with them as they are now.

How much improvement is possible?

Chris

[MattAlpha]

Chris,
What are you trying to accomplish then by changing your set-up?
It seems that you have a ton of experience with brakes, but from the posts you only talk about your driving style, not what it is. Could you please tell us what it is. Do you track it? Just a fun driver around town or short trips or so forth?
I'm just wondering. It sounds like you want to tweak a rebuilt system which is great, but why is the stock system not satisfactory for you? I would hate to see someone spend a lot of time and money to do something that could have been accomplished by changing the pads and turning the rotors. But then again, the sense of accomplishment at doing something no else has is something to be said for itself.
-Matt

[randywebb]

I think I'd change to street pads & check the rotors over... should take < 1 hr for all 4.

See what happens then. I have Pagid Oranges on my street driven 911 (inherited them). What I feel is a bit of initial delay in "grab." And that is what I'd expect.

I'm not sure what to make of your no sense of impending lockup -- it does sound like partly glazed pads. But I'm not sure why you wouldn't detect something much earlier from them.

BTW, how old are your tires?

[AtomicDog]

MattAlpha,

After thinking about your question for nearly a week, I think I have an answer or two...

I drive my car every weekday, and most weekends. 20+ mile commute, each way. I have not attended a DE event, as I don't believe the car is ready. Once I get the age and wear-related items sorted out, I will track the car. Although there are no proper canyons in New Jersey (ugh), there are some nicely curvy roads, which I make use of as often as possible. This helps me to establish where the weak links lie.

Randy,

Your point is well taken. I have been compiling my brake order - plain, vented Zimmerman rotors, Ferodo pads... I have new SS brake lines ready to go in with the new shocks, and a fresh quart of superblue.

The tires have about 2K on them...

I plan to lower the rear of the car a week after the shocks go in. At present, the front measures 25" to 25 1/4" with 1/2 a tank. Full of gas, this drops to a hair over 24". The rear is nearly 25 1/2", so it really needs to come down. After a tripod-method garage corner balance, I'll put in the waiting set of TTRs and head off for an alignment.

Pads and rotors will likely happen within a month of the above.

Any other suggestions within "reasonable" $$?

Chris

[randywebb]

tires > 5 years old will skid as the rubber gets hard - no matter WHAT mileage is on them.

[AtomicDog]

Randy,

Guess I didn't answer your question...

The tires are about three months old.

Chris