Selling advice

[1fastredsc]

It's about that time, i'm in school and completely broke with no way to fix my SC. You can do a search to find out the details on my car and what was done. It's an 83 sc, reappolstered seats, roll bar, top end rebuild, and fully rebuilt tranny with my custom made shift coupler. Has 140,000 miles. The engine will start, but makes loud knocking sound, compression leak down reveals less than 10% pitch cold on all 6 cylinders. So the culprit is most likely in the case, which i did not open during the build. I need to get an idea of how much this car is worth, it's basically a half done restoration/ track car.

[kepperly]

keep working on it this winter and sell it in the spring

[Jays72T]

That's a tough one but if it's got to go...... If you're looking for value I'd guess 5-7K depending on condition. Good luck and hope you can find a free 3.0 in good shape.

[1fastredsc]

Alright, i guess i'll open the case and find the culprit, hopefully not an expesive one or by that time i'll have to part it out. I definitely need to retire from the game for awhile, because i definitely can't pay to play at the moment. 2 more years in college and i hope my career as an ME will allow me to pay for a cayman S or 993 project . I can always dream.

[kepperly]

pull yor exhaust valve covers and check the exhaust valve adjustment. if one is way too loose it could be the knocking and wouldn't show under compression test.

keith epperly

[1fastredsc]

Thank you for the reply, but i've done all that. I checked the valve adjustment on all 12 valves, plus i checked to make sure that none of the rockers were walking around. And so far the top end is solid.

[naparsei]

Russ Kelso, PMCI, Corrales, NM - you should call him. He's a genius.

[Jgordon]

If you're at this point, it might be worth an hour of a mechanic's time to have him tell you what's going on, or at least give his best guess. Might save you some time and headaches, and it doesn't seem like you'd be worse off than you are now.

Here's hoping you keep it and work the kinks out.

[Grady Clay]

STOP

Do some serious diagnostics before you make a decision.

Use a stethoscope and try to determine where the noise is
coming from. (This is why regular listening to your engine
with a stethoscope is important. You get to know the normal
sounds. If something changes, you can tell the difference.)

Aah for the want of a sump screen. Check the drain plug
magnet with a microscope. Probably your best bet is to
take your oil filter to someone who has a “can opener” to
cut open the filter. Microscopic examination may yield
some important info.

I would do every external diagnosis before I would invade
the internals. That includes valve clearance, checking rocker
arm shafts, cam timing, cylinder head nut torque, crank pulley,
chain tensioners and ramps, cranking compression, cylinder
leak, and more. A $200 or borrowed bore scope looking down
the sparkplug port and past the intake & exhaust valves may
yield significant info.

Even if you pull the engine, check the flywheel-to-crank before
you split the case.

If you find you need to sell your treasure, documenting the problem
will help get the most $. With a problem 911, anyone with any
sense will assume the worst. Documenting the problem will take
the mystery out and help you get the most value. Everyone
benefits.

Consider this forensic analysis as part of your ME training.

Best,
Grady

[1fastredsc]

Actually i was going to sell the 911 for a "lesser" evil that is more affordable, but then i realized that that is a stupid idea, so i've come to my senses. Here's my plan, i'm going to tear down the motor until i find the culprit, and then keep going, this rebuild will be complete and will go into the case. I got two large storage bins to store the parts, one bin is for motor externals, and the other for internals. This way if i must wait a long time to fix everything completely so be it.
Now on to diagnostics, this is where i am. Leak down test reveals less than 10% on all 6 cylinders on what is essentially an ice cold motor. Valve clearances were rechecked as it was an "easy" check, as well as header nuts, and head nut torques as well. And just last week i was able to check the tensioners for any collapsing, and for broken guides. And all checks so far are a greenlight. I haven't opened the filter, and the plug magnet had some sludgy oil residue but nothing alarming like shiny gold or silver particles. And one more thing, there's been no overheating either, after the top end rebuild i did, and the exhaust modification, the motor has never ran hotter than 220 F in the hot summer.
So let the advising begin, or even bets if you want .
One more thing, i bought an ebay auction on a vw/porsche engine yoke and bench stand. Wayne says in his book that he doesn't recommened it because of the extra weight of the 911 motor (however i couldn't resist since it was 11 dollars). But i'm curious, has anyone ever actually broken one of those while supporting a 911 motor?

[JR_NYC]

nice avatar