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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Abingdon, MD
Posts: 135
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Hi folks-
The "rule of thumb" about 911s that I've been told by numerous owners, is that eventually the car will cost you $20k. For example, if you buy a 78 SC for $12k, you will eventually need another $8k to make it "right" for a total of $20,000. Is there a similar rule for 912s? For example: if the rule is $10k, if I buy a '69 for $8k, I would need to put another $2k into her to make her truly roadworthy. Your thoughts?
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Marty 1983 silver 944 - sold to "Ontario Chris" 1968 white 912 - sold to Storm and Spencer in Long Island Last edited by bobcat0; 01-17-2006 at 02:34 PM.. |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 888
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Hey Marty!
I'm currently restoring an early '65 built 912 and figure from what I've seen them going for on eBay and elsewhere, the market value for a good one is about $12K. When I think "good," I think rust-free, defect-free paint, clean interior and strong-running engine. Engine rebuilds on a 912 go for about $5K and paint jobs go for about $5K so it doesn't take a calculator to figure out that there's not a lot of "headroom" on them before you're buried. I do most of the work myself and figure I'm going to have at least $12K into mine when I'm done. http://members.aol.com/darryld/912.htm Obviously you've got to justify the money and effort in an irrational desire to own a unique ride that's more an entertainment expense than investment. I rationalize the money I'm saving by spending my time in the shop instead of a tavern.
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Marty : I am restoring my 1968 912 after I found some rust on the Floors and then more rust in the Rocker Areas and also in the Rr Wheel House inners and I will be painting it to his original color : Irish Green and I am expending $ 5000.00 usd for all that the motor has already the Big Bore Kit and I only bought the Bursch Exhaust , a Pertronix, K & N Filters , for $350.00 (The motor was fine when I bought the Car) , also I bought new Bilsteins (4) , a set of Toyos for another $ 700 aprox. and all the deco trim , H4's , Window Seals for another $ 500 , then the Interior was done again , and the rechrome of the Bpr Guards for other $ 250.00 . So the bottom line is that I already spend more than the cost of the car..........I bough it for $8000.00 back in 2002 but you have to take into account that all the Job has been done in Mexico were the hourly rates are less than in the US and also I expend more money importing the car from California due to : Taxes and all that .
JL Garcia 912, 1968 Toluca , Mexico.
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JLGS |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Friendswood, TX
Posts: 500
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I would figure that the engine will be cheaper than a 911 to get going right since they are a pretty easy engine to rebuild, but the body work will be the same as any early 911 with the rust and hard to find parts. This has been my Dad's experience with his 65' 912. Great car by the way. So it depends on what is worst for ware on the car in question.
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John F. Lewis 74' 911S Targa + 930/02 76' 914 - Eternal Type IV project FOR SALE |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Whatever you save on the engine will be spent on body and paint. At least compared to an SC or other galvanized / newer car. You have an edge compared to an early 911 though.
I think you will be hard pressed to do it much cheaper than 20k. Maybe 18? In my book that's actually an argument against 912 ownership, unless you insist on a 4 cylinder or buy one that's done. George |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Just East of Atlanta
Posts: 2,074
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I still don't think perfect ones have broken 20, but they're close.
There are no savings in the engine. 5-6k for a rebuild is the norm right now. check out the 912 links below for some more information and the bbs. sjd
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Porsche sold, moving back to muscle cars for a bit. |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,213
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Darryl-- that has to be one of the coolest and quickest restoration projects. Great job so far! Nice documentation too.
Richard
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1972 911T targa |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 888
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Hey THANKS Richard! I started doing project journals on my restoration projects once I got a digital camera about 5 years ago and find myself referring back to them constantly.
My early 912 project is off to a great start but still lots of cutting and welding is left to do. I love sheetmetal and welding work and find the more that I do, and the better tools I get, the quicker and better I get at it. A top-of-the-line MIG and spot welder have made a huge difference in the quality of my work. I also like to show people that there's more to me than artsy-fartsy engine animations, foil engine stickers and garage bling-bling!
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,213
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Darryl, how easy was it to remove the fenders?
My car appears to be in great shape with no rust but I want to be sure that there is no rust behind the fenders and catch any rust forming early. I also need to remove the front turn signals (bad electrical connection and they need to be redone) and I believe I need to take off the front bumper to remove the turn signals. Do I need to remove the fenders to remove the bumper and the signals? Am I just being a glutton for punishment and should leave my great little car alone? EDIT: Sorry for the off-topic post....
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1972 911T targa |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 888
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Hey Richard!
The fenders are very easy to take off if the bolts aren't too rusted where the rear of the fender mates with the a-pillar fender joining panel. If those things are rotten, you're screwed to hope you'll get the fender back-on without some welding work first. On my 912, the fasteners inside the cowl are machine screws with corresponding anchored speed-nut fasteners in the fender flange. If the fender flange or cowl weatherstrip lip is rusted at all, it's going to be like a potato-chip and you'll need to do some major welding work then too. So I would say if you don't see any rust when you probe around the weatherstrip channel or around the fasteners, let it go until you can time the repair with some other paint work on the car. |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 888
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Oh, and the turnsignals were held in with those screws through the lenses on each side on my '66. I think the '69 and later ones were set-up differently with removable lenses and open buckets.
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DarrylD,
Nice restoration work and documentation on the 912.
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John Adams 1980 ROW 911SC |
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Quote:
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Too many cars too little time.. |
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